The mylarized type? In strips? Do you have part numbers?
I have been searching for forever and have not been able to find anything. Doublehelixcables sells it by the foot.
The mylarized type? In strips? Do you have part numbers?
I have been searching for forever and have not been able to find anything. Doublehelixcables sells it by the foot.
Double Helix sells them per FT, but if you think about it, $1 a FT? WHAT??!
I'm not part of the 1%.
I'm still looking around for 1/2" x 260'+ rolls of mylar aluminum foil (Shielding Purposes)
Also, does anyone knows where to get copper braid (tinned/non-tinned) rolls of 3/16" or 1/8"?
I'm probably being That Guy by asking, but since you're in Seoul have you tried any of the vendors at the Yongsan markets?
I'm an exchange student in Florida as of now, so i won't be back in Seoul for another few months.
Trying to source resources as quick as i can.
And how do you know of the Yongsan Markets? 
Does it have to be the mylar type? You can buy aluminum tape at any hardware store.
Qables say that Neutrik mini housings should fit it but I dont see how as there is no thread for the housing to screw onto the internals?
Have you got the 6.3 adapter now? Could you check the internal thread diameter? I have a jack that i recently bought that has a 7.9mm thread diameter. (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280712958432&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:112

Wouldn't a woven mylar shield be better then?
Something like this?
Aluminum tape tears easily.
Too thick = needs dampening or else microphonics may become an issue.
When using regular aluminum tape to shield wires, ideally, most people would shield it spirally to lower the changes of having the tape rip off.
However, even when using the spiral method, if it ends up ripping and you continue from where it ripped, those two metals are no longer adjoined and everything after no longer acts as a shield because it won't be connected.
This can easily be fixed if the person uses a copper braid (tinned/un-tinned) over the foil, which would then touch the torn aluminum pieces and create a complete shield.
For those who use aluminum "tape" foil only (and ends up ripping), what you can do is:
Get a wire around size 26AWG - 30 AWG (tinned or silver plated)
Remove insulation
Wrap spirally over the foils to connect them which would then help you in creating a "complete" shield.

Wouldn't a woven mylar shield be better then?
Something like this?
Woven/Techflex works, but i would say that it's not a very effective as a standalone.
They're woven in, and held together by the PET/Plastic, which clearly isn't metal, resulting as being a gap or hole that let's EMI/RF through.
It's more like a semi-shielding or for under sleeving aesthetics.
Another issue with them is the ability to ground the dang thing.
Since the PET is mostly larger than the mylar aluminum that it holds, putting a copper braid under/over it would not work.
You can make a floating ground using a wire soldered to the aluminum mylar, but that is somewhat difficult and time consuming.
I only use these as a 3rd shield over Mylar Foil and Copper Braid for extra protection.
Perhaps i'll use it more often if someone has an easier way to ground it.
This is all relevant to the thinner type of Mylar PET Sleeving, I haven't tried to thicker one.

Qables say that Neutrik mini housings should fit it but I dont see how as there is no thread for the housing to screw onto the internals?
Have you got the 6.3 adapter now? Could you check the internal thread diameter? I have a jack that i recently bought that has a 7.9mm thread diameter. (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280712958432&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:112
I have none in stock at the moment, but will ask a supplier to have it measured for you. 

Oops, the tape I was thinking of is a lot heaver.
I recently did a re-cable on a DT770 Manufaktur:
Some pics here: http://blasserre.wordpress.com/2013/03/06/dt-770-re-cable-balanced-mod/

Woven/Techflex works, but i would say that it's not a very effective as a standalone.
They're woven in, and held together by the PET/Plastic, which clearly isn't metal, resulting as being a gap or hole that let's EMI/RF through.
It's more like a semi-shielding or for under sleeving aesthetics.
Another issue with them is the ability to ground the dang thing.
Since the PET is mostly larger than the mylar aluminum that it holds, putting a copper braid under/over it would not work.
You can make a floating ground using a wire soldered to the aluminum mylar, but that is somewhat difficult and time consuming.
You do know that mylar is PET, covered with a thin layer of usually aluminium?
Two layers of that braid will give you nearly full coverage. I'd go with that, then do a simple desktop test for efficacy.
Interesting discussion. What about picking up this mylar reflective sheeting from Home Depot marketed to use in greenhouses? http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202985200?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=mylar&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=202985200#.UToR9xnpaPU