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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 747

post #11191 of 14187
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathdeisel View Post

Btw anyone here have any experience with the Amphenol 1/4 plug?

Nothing fancy, just a nice solid plug. I've had no issue using one.

Not used the 3.5mm ones, so can't compare.

post #11192 of 14187
Quote:
Originally Posted by DingoSmuggler View Post

Nothing fancy, just a nice solid plug. I've had no issue using one.

Not used the 3.5mm ones, so can't compare.

Likewise, it's a pretty solid plug that comes with built-in strain relief. The barrel is made of metal so it doesn't feel cheap. It's a perfect fit for the smaller diameter mogami cable.

post #11193 of 14187
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsxboy View Post

When you guys recabled your headphones with paracord, did you strip away the factory outer layer? Or just put the whole cord inside the paracord?
 

It usually doesn't fit with the outer layer on, so I strip it off. But it depends on your cable.

 

By the way, I've really been a n00b when it comes to using paracord. At first I really loved it but then I started using my new cable and it was like microphonics from hell... So I made a new cable with a Mogami 2893 standard cable, no sleeving or paracord.

post #11194 of 14187
Quote:
Originally Posted by JosvdP View Post

It usually doesn't fit with the outer layer on, so I strip it off. But it depends on your cable.

By the way, I've really been a n00b when it comes to using paracord. At first I really loved it but then I started using my new cable and it was like microphonics from hell... So I made a new cable with a Mogami 2893 standard cable, no sleeving or paracord.

If you stretch the paracord too tightly or leave it on too loosely, it does nothing to microphonics. It takes a little experimentation to figure out.
post #11195 of 14187

Agreed ^^ Gotta have a good mixture of extra material while not too loose.

post #11196 of 14187
Ah, good point! Didn't know that. So it is likely on too tight now then? I really stretched it as much as I could since I cut it a little short.
post #11197 of 14187

There ya go theres your problem. Its gotta be slack, but not so loose it folds or bundles. 

post #11198 of 14187

Just ordered 75ft of canare l4e6s!

 

Just wondering will they fit in any right angle TRS while unstripped? I am hoping to use Neutrik NTP3RC...

post #11199 of 14187
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrAdrian View Post

Just ordered 75ft of canare l4e6s!

 

Just wondering will they fit in any right angle TRS while unstripped? I am hoping to use Neutrik NTP3RC...

According to Neutriks website the largest cable diameter for the NTP3RC is 4.5mm which is quite a lot smaller than L4E6S which is a whopping 6.0mm. You'd want something like L-2B2AT from Canare which is a twisted pair mic cable. Even their compact starquad is too large for that plug. Mogami makes nice mini star quad but quite frankly star quad isn't even the proper cable for a NTP3RC. 

post #11200 of 14187

Can anyone suggest something flexible, durable, and cheap for fixing my TF10s? I hear 24ga silicone "Spaghetti" wire is popular.

post #11201 of 14187

I am fairly new to making cables.  Have a question?  How do you guys keep paracord or techflex in place on the wire?  Glue, tape, heatshrink??  Can't figure out how I want to do it.....also want to use wooden bead for Y, is that glued in place?

 

Thanks for the help!

post #11202 of 14187

Can someone recommend an inexpensive soldering iron and appropriate tip for soldering Cardas Sennheiser connectors?  Wattage?

post #11203 of 14187
Quote:
Originally Posted by 65535 View Post

According to Neutriks website the largest cable diameter for the NTP3RC is 4.5mm which is quite a lot smaller than L4E6S which is a whopping 6.0mm. You'd want something like L-2B2AT from Canare which is a twisted pair mic cable. Even their compact starquad is too large for that plug. Mogami makes nice mini star quad but quite frankly star quad isn't even the proper cable for a NTP3RC. 

If, when he says unstripped, he is talking about pulling out the individual wires and braiding them, he should be ok.  It will be a tight fit, though.  Switchcraft right angled TRS connectors have bigger openings.  Oyaide is bigger than the Neutrik as well.  There are also several from Lunashops that will work.

post #11204 of 14187
Quote:
Originally Posted by cute View Post

Can someone recommend an inexpensive soldering iron and appropriate tip for soldering Cardas Sennheiser connectors?  Wattage?

 



http://www.cmlsupply.com/model-936-esd-safe-soldering-system.html?gclid=CISq1KzUnbUCFdSmPAodWgwA9A

 

All the Aoyue stuff is great for anyone short of a hardcore professional. (And I've heard even they are using 'em...)

post #11205 of 14187

The Hakko 936 is frequently recommended here (I like mine too, but don't have many other soldering stations to compare it with). It's discontinued and it's not hard to find in the $60 range used -- or you can find its successor (888) new for around $100.

 

There are a lot of (Other Name) 936 and 937 soldering stations, but as far as I can tell most of them are Chinese knockoffs of the 936 design. The Aoyue looks like yet another version of the Hakko; it might be good or not, I've never heard of it before.

 

Another reliable brand is Weller, though I can't recall which models are more popular hereabouts.

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