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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 744

post #11146 of 13854
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnsonr520 View Post

Arent those 4 conductor cables so you cant braid them?

 

Cut the jacket and shielding off and strip out the lining.

 

It's kind of a nuisance but the added effort wins you high-quality wire for between ten and twenty-five cents a foot.

 

Alternately you can get wire from BTG; it's more or less the wire in Mogami W2893. $0.80/ft, but you don't have to cut any jackets or shields to get at it. I think the added price is fair, considering.

 

These prices I'm throwing around assume that you're in the U.S.

post #11147 of 13854
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Max View Post

Who doesn't strip them and braid them like everyone else here?

Besides me.  =p

 

Or buy stiff, microphonic single wire from navships on fleaBay.

yea those came in the mail today.I bought them off a recommendation from a friend and I must say they are a bust : / Could I take the sleeving off and sleeve it in my 440 cord?

post #11148 of 13854
Which came in? The ones from eBay or the starquad?
post #11149 of 13854

The ebay navships

post #11150 of 13854

navships wire is quality stuff but I think the teflon insulation makes it stiffer than it should be. It's fantastic IC and internal wire, though.

 

Doesn't mogami/starquad wire come in four different colors on the inside?

 

I've been looking for a source for relatively cheap clear insulated stranded SPC (so it doesn't turn green) but haven't found anything cheaper than $1/foot. Anyone got a source? Would want to buy ~50 feet or so.

post #11151 of 13854

Mogami and Canare wires have different colors depending on the model. For example, the Canare L-4E5C is pairs of blue and white, while the Mogami W2893 is black, red, blue, and clear.

 

If you're going to be sleeving whatever you build, I don't think the wire colors matter all that much.

 

SPC won't turn green, because silver tarnishes to black, not green.  (Edit: I misread you. Obviously you know that. Sorry.)

 

I don't think you'll see prices much under $1/ft for PE-jacketed SPC. There are some Chinese sellers that list for under a dollar a foot, but international shipping knocks the price back up to your threshold again.


Edited by ardgedee - 1/26/13 at 3:10pm
post #11152 of 13854
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ikarios View Post

navships wire is quality stuff but I think the teflon insulation makes it stiffer than it should be. It's fantastic IC and internal wire, though.

 

Doesn't mogami/starquad wire come in four different colors on the inside?

 

I've been looking for a source for relatively cheap clear insulated stranded SPC (so it doesn't turn green) but haven't found anything cheaper than $1/foot. Anyone got a source? Would want to buy ~50 feet or so.

Ill post pictures later but i stripped the navships and sleeved them with mini 440 cord then braided it.

post #11153 of 13854
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ikarios View Post

Doesn't mogami/starquad wire come in four different colors on the inside?

 

2893 comes in 26ga in four colors (red, black, clear, blue) - this is the stuff BTG audio sells afaik - very soft and flexible, braids well.

2534 comes in 24 ga in two colors (clear, blue) - better for IC's in my opinion, not as flexible.

post #11154 of 13854

I want to recable some iem's and need some help.

 

Because its my first time  I will be using a readymade cable from lunashop.

I have been reading through this thread for sometime but still have a few questions:

 

1. when i will have the iem opened how would i know where to solder the ground and where to solder the left or right. For example how would someone know which cable goes where in the picture below 

 

2. When I will get this cable: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=2155

how can I determine which cable is which (left/right/ ground) I know it can be done with a mutlimeter, but what should I seen on the screen so that i know which is which.

 

3. I have acces to a solder where i can set a temperature, at which temperature should I solder to the drivers. 

post #11155 of 13854

Some really great implementations in this thread. 700+ pages to get lost in.

post #11156 of 13854

my first Recabling :) 

audio technica sj-33

the old cable stopped working

so i said what the hell..

added 3.5mm jack to the drivers.

some wire and parts i had around my room.

 

they work like a charm i'm pretty satisfied with the result.

 

let me know what you think.

it's in imgur because it seems that i can't upload my pic here.

 

http://imgur.com/a/ynH7y/


Edited by KeyGhost - 1/27/13 at 4:59pm
post #11157 of 13854

I dig the AT re-cable, I would suggest some Neutrik or Switchcraft plugs done the road for better durability. 


Edited by TheRH - 1/27/13 at 5:10pm
post #11158 of 13854

Actually, those Radio Shack plugs are pleasingly sturdy, even if they're not as good-looking as Switchcrafts.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by PakoBoy View Post

1. when i will have the iem opened how would i know where to solder the ground and where to solder the left or right. For example how would someone know which cable goes where in the picture below 

 

 

2. When I will get this cable: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=2155

how can I determine which cable is which (left/right/ ground) I know it can be done with a mutlimeter, but what should I seen on the screen so that i know which is which.

 

3. I have acces to a solder where i can set a temperature, at which temperature should I solder to the drivers. 

 

Use your multimeter as a continuity tester to determine which wire connects to which part of the plug. The values it displays are not important; only whether it's detecting a closed or open circuit.

 

The plug is called a TRS -- for Tip, Ring, and Sleeve. The tip is the pointed end of the plug, the sleeve is closest to the base of the plug.

 

You'll have two wires connected to the sleeve, and one each connected to the tip and ring, like this:

 

Left channel:

one wire -> tip

one wire -> sleeve

 

Right channel:

one wire -> ring

one wire -> sleeve

 

As for which wire to connect to which speaker element, look to see if there are any markings to indicate + and - near the solder points.

 

I like to run my soldering iron fairly high -- close to 400 C -- because I use lead-free solder and I'm usually working on larger chunks of metal. You might not want to do that if you're working on small, easily-melted things like earphone speakers, and you might not have to if you're using leaded solder.

post #11159 of 13854
Quote:
Originally Posted by ardgedee View Post

Actually, those Radio Shack plugs are pleasingly sturdy, even if they're not as good-looking as Switchcrafts.



Use your multimeter as a continuity tester to determine which wire connects to which part of the plug. The values it displays are not important; only whether it's detecting a closed or open circuit.

The plug is called a TRS -- for Tip, Ring, and Sleeve. The tip is the pointed end of the plug, the sleeve is closest to the base of the plug.

You'll have two wires connected to the sleeve, and one each connected to the tip and ring, like this:

Left channel:
one wire -> tip
one wire -> sleeve

Right channel:
one wire -> ring
one wire -> sleeve

As for which wire to connect to which speaker element, look to see if there are any markings to indicate + and - near the solder points.

I like to run my soldering iron fairly high -- close to 400 C -- because I use lead-free solder and I'm usually working on larger chunks of metal. You might not want to do that if you're working on small, easily-melted things like earphone speakers, and you might not have to if you're using leaded solder.

Thank you very much. But what will be + and what will be -?

+ right ?
- left?

Or

+ left or right ( depending which earpiece)?
- ground ?
post #11160 of 13854

What is the best wire gauge and braiding style for portable use that is a trade off between light weight, flexibility and durability?

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