DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 728

I can't post my pic from my phone, but if you search the forums for it, you should find it. That is how I found it at least.

Double post.
Edited by FraGGleR - 12/28/12 at 8:02am

 

Me personally:

- lightly tin the connectors on the mini-xlr

- lightly tin the wires

- try to arrange the wires into the right spatial config and set them into place

- I try to get the bottom (2) then centre (4) one first, before fiddling with the outer two

- signal is 1/4, ground is 2/3

You also don't need wires to 2 and 4 (or to jumper them) if you are running only two wires to each cup.  The pins are joined inside the cups of the Audeze socket.  But if running 4 wires to each cup, you must follow Armaegis' instructions.

Do you need four connecters for balanced connections?

 

On a separate note, I just talked to the people in Furutech, and they have a super high end mini xlr coming out in february.

You need 4 at the amp (and 2 to each cup) for balanced. Many run 8/4 for the Audeze. Maybe the thick cable balances out the huge phones. ;D

Sounds good. Can make a pretty cable cable out of that many wires :3

Now I just need to learn how to do an 8 strand braid.

I just made an 8 wire cable for my LCD-2's, but these are so huge and heavy, I might have to move to 16 wires...

Is there any way to get just the clear wires from the W2893:

http://www.performanceaudio.com/buy/Mogami/W2893/5603

 

I think BTG audio has them, but they sell it for $.8/ft, while the W2893 has 2 of them for $.8/ft. I just feel wasteful throwing away half the wires because I'll never use them

 

Wind up the wire you don't use and put it aside for some other project or sell it to somebody else.

 

Think of BTG's added cost as the premium you pay for not having to go through the effort of cutting up and separating the Mogami cable. I think it's a fair price.

Still havent bought any cable yet for my headphone recabling/interconnects/etc because i can not decide which to buy. From what i have read i have chosen either the Mogami W2534 cable for $1.09 per ft , Mogami W2893 for $0.79 per ft , Canare L-4E6S for $0.46 per ft , and the Canare L-4E5C for $0.45 per ft, all prices from Redco. Now im going to be stripping these cables from all the outer sleeving so does it matter which one i choose? From what i understand the L4E6S and W2534 are the same and the L4E5C and W2893 are the same, and the only difference between the 2 sets are the thickness but if im stripping them then it should not really matter? Then i should just go for the L4E5C as it is the cheapest?

Buying from America is always a big deal for me so i want to make sure i get everything right before i make my order. 

Edited by wavid - 12/29/12 at 6:46pm

I don't know what the exact difference is, but Mogami claims their Neglex is a better copper.  However, Canare has better stranding so you might get better flexibility.  If you want clear dialectric so you can see the copper, then you have to go with Mogami.  I have preferred the Mogami when keeping the cable intact as their spiral shield is marginally more flexible than the braided shield of the Canare.  

 

You won't really go wrong with any of them.  They are all high quality, and a great place to start.  You need to decide what factors are most important to you and then pick one.

I guess I really should start buying Mogami cables and strip em to use for max cost effectiveness.

Happy New Year all...

I purchase doobooloo portable balanced amp from Mike's (headfonia owner) store in Indonesia.
Actually it can used by single ended cans.
To use as balanced I need to built dual trs 1/4" to xlr connector.
Noob question since I never made this connector, how the schematic of wiring system this connector for both side, (+) and (-) from 1/4 trs to xlr.

Thanks for any help.

Oh I remember that amp... where the two outputs are the same but one is inverted in polarity from the other. 

 

Let's designate the first one as +, and the right one as -

so on that first one you have tip/ring/sleeve which is L+/R+/ground

and the second one is tip/ring/sleeve which is L-/R-/ground

 

Assuming you're going to a 4-pin XLR, those pins correspond to:

pin 1: L+

pin 2: L-

pin 3: R+

pin 4: R-

 

If going to dual 3-pin XLRs, then... crap I forget off the top of my head... I think pin 1 is negative and pin 2 is positive and pin 3 is ground (not used) or sometimes joined with pin 1... but hopefully someone can chime in there. 

Edited by Armaegis - 12/31/12 at 4:31pm