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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 726post #10876 of 1347112/21/12 at 6:17am
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #10877 of 1347112/21/12 at 2:11pm
Good to see the aftermarket 1/8" plugs manufacturers adapt to how many people plug their products into. I have had to carve up cases for my phone in the past to deal with larger plugs.post #10878 of 1347112/21/12 at 2:57pmpost #10879 of 1347112/21/12 at 3:07pmpost #10880 of 1347112/21/12 at 5:20pm
The funny thing is that plug shoulders might not be necessary for the iPhone 5. The headphone socket is so close to the microphone grille that case housings can't crowd it.
Big plugs like the Oyaide could probably still benefit, though.post #10881 of 1347112/21/12 at 7:26pmQuote:Originally Posted by ardgedee
Mogami (W2893) or Canare (L-4E5C) starquad/miniquad is the best bang-for-buck wire you can ask for.
The usual go-to suppliers for it are Markertek and Redco. They're in the States so you might get better prices by shopping around within Canada.
I need to update the FAQ with this stuff.
I'm having trouble drawing a mental picture. Can you post a good close-up photo of the plug and the joints?
Thanks for the heads up, I actually just got some L-4E5C for my KSC75 ( posted a few pages back). Unfortunately that stuff is a bit too thick and stiff for an iem :(
Anyways since this is a gallery here is a quick temp cable I made from VGA pins, Navship's SPC, and some $0.99 ebay mini plug. Probably one of the most ghetto cables on headfi, I would not recommend this as a permanent cable.post #10882 of 1347112/21/12 at 7:38pmQuote:
Strip away the outer jacket and shielding. You don't need 'em anyway. The extra effort is the price to pay for good cheap wire. All the cool kids are doin' it!post #10883 of 1347112/21/12 at 8:00pmQuote:
I dont think I can strip it anymore without all the wires touching :pQuote:Originally Posted by cgg123321
So I just had the greatest beginner's luck on my first recable. I accidentally ripped up both of the leads to one of the drivers when my iron slipped. I managed to see both (extremely hair thin) leads and soldered them back on. I nearly cried in joy when i pressed play and heard sound.
The recabled KSC75 sound completely different now. The sound seems like it's in the back of my head instead of near the front. I have no idea how to describe this in correct terms. Do cables need burn in or anything?
Edited by cgg123321 - 12/21/12 at 10:02pmpost #10884 of 1347112/21/12 at 8:40pm
Sounds like you have one or both + & - reversed to me.
Tip wire should go to Left Driver +
Ring wire should go to Right Driver +
Sleeve connects to the Right & Left Driver -
You'll have to check with a meter where each connection goes and change either end accordingly.post #10885 of 1347112/22/12 at 8:32pmQuote:
Identical, fully interchangeable. I've built 3-pin and 4-pin adapters before.post #10886 of 1347112/22/12 at 10:59pm
God im getting sick of this crap issues. Still dealing with the same 3.5mm from before. Said screw it and scrapped the one plug, and restarted on one side. Now having one side with no sound. Right side is without sound, tried playing with the tip connections and couldnt get sound out of the left. So could this be a ground issue now?post #10887 of 1347112/23/12 at 5:03amQuote:
Whoops, didn't remember the first time you'd posted that pic.
The braid is really tight. That's going to make the cable stiffer.Quote:Originally Posted by Deathdeisel
God im getting sick of this crap issues. Still dealing with the same 3.5mm from before. Said screw it and scrapped the one plug, and restarted on one side. Now having one side with no sound. Right side is without sound, tried playing with the tip connections and couldnt get sound out of the left. So could this be a ground issue now?
Can you post pics of the soldered areas? It's hard to diagnose that by description alone.post #10888 of 1347112/23/12 at 9:59am
So i checked the channels as I could with my multimeter(I have no idea how to use it). The left connection under DC Volts(.25) im getting signal, but on the right im not getting signal on any currents of any kind. Is this normal or am I doing it wrong? Currently im just hooking one connector the sleeve/ground connection, and then alternating the positive to check left and right.post #10889 of 1347112/24/12 at 3:58am
Phew, this took a ridiculously long time to do... I think about 10-12 hours?
2x 4-pin miniXLR into 4-pin XLR(m) (2x 4strand braid into 8strand braid)
4-pin XLR(f) into 4-pin XLR(m)
4-pin XLR(f) into Furutech TRS
Edited by Armaegis - 12/24/12 at 4:03ampost #10890 of 1347112/24/12 at 5:10amQuote:Originally Posted by Deathdeisel
So i checked the channels as I could with my multimeter(I have no idea how to use it). The left connection under DC Volts(.25) im getting signal, but on the right im not getting signal on any currents of any kind. Is this normal or am I doing it wrong? Currently im just hooking one connector the sleeve/ground connection, and then alternating the positive to check left and right.
So to understand the problem:
Your left channel has a closed circuit from TIP, through the + and Ground wires, back to SLEEVE
Your right channel has an open circuit from RING to SLEEVE
Assuming the problem is in the connections on this plug, you can test the wires by putting a probe on either side of the solder joint (or one probe on the plug contact and one on the corresponding the wire) and see if there's continuity through the joint.
The solder blob on the ground tab looks like it's barely adhering. I'd also try cleaning up some of the excess solder to help reduce the risk of bridging or shorting the lines.
As far as using a multimeter for continuity testing, I use mine with the dial set at 200 Ohm and if the display reacts I have continuity. (since my meter is digital, "1.0" means no continuity, wildly fluctuating numbers means continuity.)
If there's not much room, you should be able to stab the tip of your probe directly into the wire through the blue or white insulation, too.
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