Thanks for that tip, i noticed that it softens when heated.
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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 716
post #10726 of 1195512/11/12 at 8:22amGear mentioned in this thread:
post #10727 of 1195512/11/12 at 8:26am- randomkid
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Thanks for that tip, i noticed that it softens when heated.
post #10728 of 1195512/11/12 at 8:31am- ardgedee
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The plastic will eventually deform into another shape, in which case just curl it and whack it with a hairdryer or heatgun again.
If you want an ear hook that is a little more aggressively springy, put a tube of heat-shrink over the area and attach it to the plug body, then do what fraggler describes above. I do this for all my IEM cables, and I much prefer it to memory wire. Again, it will eventually deform, but within reason you can continue reshaping it as much as you want.post #10729 of 1195512/11/12 at 8:36am- randomkid
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sounds good, i did do heatshrink and wire before, it became a little uncomfortable after a while, but i do have some nylon sheathing that i may use, or similar.
post #10730 of 1195512/11/12 at 2:03pm- ardgedee
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My first IEM cable irritated the back of one ear, so I re-bent the heatshrinks so they curved around the ears more tightly and then curled away from the ear near where the heatshrinks ended. The squared-off ends of the heatshrink were causing the irritation.
Later I sheathed the whole length in multifilament and that helped by adding a little padding. The irritation had already gone away before I had done that, though.
post #10731 of 1195512/11/12 at 3:06pm- cogsand gears
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Quote:Originally Posted by randomkid
going to make a toxic cables SPC 26awg cable with these:
and this:
This:
(i like using pailiccs, quite big but nice quality and they look good)
Cable is for:
Gonna look good i think, hopefully Frank has the SPC in tranparent, as i prefer it to blue or grey translucent. Still dont now wether to make memory cable or not...
I have used both the trans blue, and the clear insulated SPC to make IEM cables:
The trans blue looks pretty awesome IMO. I would also say that as long as you have a chin slider on there, you wont need any memory wire for the ear loops. The 26awg is very flexible, and stays in place just fine for me using the cinch.
post #10732 of 1195512/11/12 at 5:35pm- WayTooCrazy
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Quote:+1
post #10733 of 1195512/11/12 at 6:08pm- cssarrow
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Just replaced the most crappy RCA in my setup. Went to a Polkaduio subwoofer.
I used the 16AWG cables that came with my Audioengine A5+. Braided 4 conductor round for fun. Sub-woofer sounds a lot tighter now in both music and action movies.
Neutrik RCA Connectors :} Grounded each connector.
Edited by cssarrow - 12/11/12 at 6:11pmpost #10734 of 1195512/11/12 at 8:28pm- cgg123321
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Has anyone else used VGA pins for their TF10/UE pins? I believe TF10's use the 0.75mm pins and other brands use the 0.78mm pins. I'm wondering if the vga pins will stretch out the connectors.
post #10735 of 1195512/11/12 at 11:06pmQuote:Oh sorry to not mention!!! I have JH16. Any suggestion? of what it is called and where can I get it?
post #10736 of 1195512/12/12 at 1:29am- cogsand gears
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Quote:Lunashops and Toxic Cables ebay store both sell the connector pins your after.
post #10737 of 1195512/12/12 at 3:45am- DefQon
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Those Paillics are absolute pita to work with to get a fine result.
post #10738 of 1195512/12/12 at 10:18am- ardgedee
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Quote:HD D-sub pins, which are used for 15-pin VGA connectors, are 0.76mm dia, usually ±0.02mm.
The ones you find in VGA connectors and connector parts are usually hollow and bend easily. I don't recommend using hollow pins for anything other than a quicky whip-something-together bench experiment, because of the increased chance of the pin snapping off inside the IEM.
post #10739 of 1195512/12/12 at 11:47am- randomkid
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With pailiccs use flux and it comes out really goodpost #10740 of 1195512/12/12 at 1:30pm- WayTooCrazy
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