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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 713

post #10681 of 14188
Liamstrain answers it right.

However changing the entire cable is like changing the substance of your car.
It's like replacing a copper radiator with an aluminum one, both will do just in cooling down the engine (delivery of sound), some may swear that the other does a better job).

I'm borderline between thinking it's placebo and it actually improving the sound quality. There's so many saying silver will improve the sonics, perhaps it's true since they have so much time on their hands and have done some blind testing, then again, all those people are usually the ones who are selling the product. If they're not selling it, they sure are hypnotized by it. (Same with Power Plug Cables)

For some of us, we just want high quality cables that are going to last a long time, knowing that it uses the highest conductive properties and shielding so we can sleep easy knowing that the music delivered to us by the sound system isn't flawed due to the cable.

6.3mm adapter should not degrade sound quality (unless you get some of the crappy chinese ones). If they have a tight good contact, then it's passable. (95% of the chinese adapters i bought for 6.3mm broke within 6 months). For 6.3mm to 3.5mm i recommend Sennheiser and Grado, as for the 3.5mm to 6.3mm the NuForce one is very solid. If your mind still tells you that 6.3mm is the way to go and you don't want any adapters blocking the way, then buy a $2-5 1/4 plug such as Neutrik NP3X-B (My favorite) and solder it on with silver solder. biggrin.gif

I actually think 6.3mm adapters are a nice thing to have, and that 3.5mm cable output is recommended. Who knows when you'll want to use the headphones on an ipod or other devices. Don't want you to go looking for an adapter tongue.gif
Edited by cssarrow - 12/6/12 at 11:28pm
post #10682 of 14188
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post

You should definitely do some searching, as your questions are common and there are a lot of great cables showcased to help you with making yours. A lot of information is exchanged in this thread, but it is still supposed to be a gallery. That being said, I will go ahead and give you my opinions. Stick to wires between 28awg and 24awg for heapdhones. As many strands as you can get to reduce stiffness. Navships wire has fairly thick teflon coating which makes it stiff and generates cable noise. Sleeving will only help marginally. The braid looks good.

Thanks for the help, guys. I have done some research and it looks as if buying some Canare wire off ebay will suit the task well. I am looking at the L-2T2 cable and using some multifilament nylon sleeving.
post #10683 of 14188
Awesome... I don't know when I can do the work like yours.
post #10684 of 14188
Thank you liamstrain and cssarrow. I guess I am still have to hunt for more mods that actually improve the performance. cool.gif
post #10685 of 14188
Quote:
Originally Posted by questionasker View Post

 

700

I want to build 2 power cables that look like this... one for my Denon Receiver and the other for my Denon Transport... would be great looking (not that it would make a difference or anything... just look great).

post #10686 of 14188

Posted in the MH1 thread, but felt it'd be nice in here as well. :)

 

 

1000

 

 

 

1000

post #10687 of 14188

How do you guys keep your twisted wires from un-twisting? I'm using canare mini starquad and the two wires keep coming loose :( I used a dremel to twist them if that changes anything.

post #10688 of 14188
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgg123321 View Post

How do you guys keep your twisted wires from un-twisting? I'm using canare mini starquad and the two wires keep coming loose :( I used a dremel to twist them if that changes anything.

 

It does. When you twist the wires together, you should not twist the wire itself. Using the dremel, you probably twisted the individual wire so they want to spring back straight.

 

To visualize it, figure that if there was a line on the top of each wire, the line should always stay on top even trough the twists. It should not spiral around the wire once the wires are twisted together.

post #10689 of 14188
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tangster View Post

Posted in the MH1 thread, but felt it'd be nice in here as well. :)

 

Dunno how you guys deal with this stuff. I had a hard time enough with Koss ksc-75s earlier yesterday. 

This is how it turned out, man these amphenol plugs look absolutely fantastic. I really regret ordering some of them in black, the silver just looks super high quality. 

The wires are going into the ksc75s, which are inside my helmet. 

post #10690 of 14188

Very nice cable!

 

Black Amphenols?  Where?


Edited by Mad Max - 12/8/12 at 7:18pm
post #10691 of 14188
Quote:
Originally Posted by KimLaroux View Post

 

It does. When you twist the wires together, you should not twist the wire itself. Using the dremel, you probably twisted the individual wire so they want to spring back straight.

 

To visualize it, figure that if there was a line on the top of each wire, the line should always stay on top even trough the twists. It should not spiral around the wire once the wires are twisted together.

 

Crap I did what this guy did at 1:00 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6ZecDs0GI4

 

So how should I fix this? I have already started to litz braid the bottom half of the cable together.

 

 

 


Edited by cgg123321 - 12/8/12 at 8:39pm
post #10692 of 14188
Put the Y in a vise and slowly and carefully twist the pairs up with a cordless drill until they are nice and tight. Clamp them and leave them for a few days to retain the twist. That is what I would do.

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2
post #10693 of 14188
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgg123321 View Post

Crap I did what this guy did at 1:00 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6ZecDs0GI4

So how should I fix this? I have already started to litz braid the bottom half of the cable together.




Listen to the wire. The wires will tell you how to twist them up. Don't twist too tightly. If you do, they will just want to fight it.
post #10694 of 14188

Just start anew. It's obvious from the picture the wires are under stress. The whole cable will be more stiff than if the individual wires are not twisted. Just take your time and carefully twist the wires together so they have no stress in them. As FraGGler said, the wires will let you know if they like it or not.

 

"twisting" wires is a misleading term. We really bend them around each others. Take a look at this video, which shows a machine that makes wire rope out of individual steel wires:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQvPp3BNmWg

 

On the large rotary machine is mounted all the spools containing the wires. If you pay attention, you will notice that as the machine spins, the individual spools always stays in the same orientation. They stay horizontal. This is done so that the individual wires are not twisted. Wires are like springs, if you twist them they will store energy and stay under stress. It makes the whole cable less flexible, more prone to failure and more dangerous when it fails.

 

The same technique is used by cable manufacturers to make electrical cables.

post #10695 of 14188
Thought i'd share my DIY Headphone Cable.

Made it last week.

Consist of the following:
6FT Triple Insulation Teflon/Kapton/Teflon Silver Plated Oxygen Free Copper (22AWG)
6FT 1/4" White Braid Sleeve
Black 1/4" Heat Shrink Tube
Neutrik NP3X-B 1/4" (6.3mm) Connector Plug
Switchcraft Mini-XLR Connector Plug Model TA3FSH
Kester 5% Silver Solder (95TIN/5Silver)

Did it improve the sound? Doubt it (maybe by <0.001%, i think i hear it)
Did it waste a lot of time? Yes!
How much did a cost? A bunch of money
Will you ever be making one again? Absolutely




I am terrible when it comes to heatshrinking. old fashion lighter for me. biggrin.gif
Does Techflex work better for sleeving? The one i use is like hard plastic wires, whenever they rub one another it makes noise that my left ear can hear (grinding sounds).

- Tim
Edited by cssarrow - 12/9/12 at 12:59am
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