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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 708

post #10606 of 11970
12/1/12 at 7:28pm

Sounds good. Made the alteration in my cart.
Thanks for that heads up.

@ limpidglitch Now you said in my thread that these wont fit the 2893 so what should I be using instead? The larger versions here?

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post #10607 of 11970
12/1/12 at 8:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kitten wizard View Post

Sounds good. Made the alteration in my cart.
Thanks for that heads up.

@ limpidglitch Now you said in my thread that these wont fit the 2893 so what should I be using instead? The larger versions here?

 

It's all in the spec sheets.

2534 and 2893 are 6.0 and 4.8mm Ø, respectively.

NYS231L and 231 are 6 and 5mm Ø, respectively.

Then you add/subtract jacket, heatshrink and sleeving.


Edited by limpidglitch - 12/1/12 at 8:51pm
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post #10608 of 11970
12/1/12 at 11:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTRagnarok View Post

My first DIY cable:

 

 

Mogami 2893 quad cable and Amphenol 3.5mm plug from redco.com

Paracord sleeving from eBay

 

Sweet!

I love the Amphenol mini.  What's with the y-split heatshrink?  The lower half looks like it has something more underneath.  If not, maybe reheating the heatshrink will help or a second piece of heatshrink on top of the current one can reduce the jagged look.

 

 

 

HD448 recable with 2893 + Amphenol mini alongside my similarly recabled M80:

 

700

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post #10609 of 11970
12/2/12 at 4:21am

Hi,
I would like to recable my shure srh440 headphones. Is there any chance to find a suitable 2.5mm plug which is fits in the headphones' housing?

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post #10610 of 11970
12/2/12 at 7:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTRagnarok View Post

My first DIY cable:

 

 

Mogami 2893 quad cable and Amphenol 3.5mm plug from redco.com

Paracord sleeving from eBay

What are those connectors right there? They look like screw in while being the perfect size for attachment to cans. I might pick some of these up for my mod.

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post #10611 of 11970
12/2/12 at 9:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kitten wizard View Post

What are those connectors right there? They look like screw in while being the perfect size for attachment to cans. I might pick some of these up for my mod.

Those are Hifiman HE-XXX connectors.  A variant on a mini coax.  You can get good quality ones pretty cheap on ebay.  Not many people are fans of them.  If you have space, a mini-XLR would be a better choice.

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post #10612 of 11970
12/2/12 at 1:13pm

Fraggler, got any links to decent mini coax connectors on ebay? I need to make a new cable for my HE400s and would like to spend less than the $12 they cost most places.

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post #10613 of 11970
12/2/12 at 2:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by morfologus View Post

Hi,
I would like to recable my shure srh440 headphones. Is there any chance to find a suitable 2.5mm plug which is fits in the headphones' housing?

 

I would suggest improvising with a plug or mutilating one from a spare Shure cable.  Even better would be to replace the 2,5mm socket in the Shure headphone with a 3,5mm one instead, then it will be easier for you to build a nice cable.

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post #10614 of 11970
12/2/12 at 2:41pm

It is a secret that will cost you $5 if you really want to know.  Sorry, these are tough times and I have to eat...

 

J/K:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/160764096092

 

If you don't want to wait until close to New Years for delivery, PM me.  I have a few extras from my order.

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post #10615 of 11970
12/2/12 at 2:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Max View Post

 

I would suggest improvising with a plug or mutilating one from a spare Shure cable.  Even better would be to replace the 2,5mm socket in the Shure headphone with a 3,5mm one instead, then it will be easier for you to build a nice cable.

Or if there is space, I would recommend a mini-XLR.  More secure.  I did that with my Shure SRH840's.  Same pinout as AKG phones.

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post #10616 of 11970
12/2/12 at 2:56pm

Thanks for the ideas.
I haven't find a wrong shure cable around here and replace the socket seems to be too difficult for me. Every jack connector has a "flange" which isn't allow to use a normal plug and it would be good to remove that "flange". So I try to make up how to take off it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Max View Post

 

I would suggest improvising with a plug or mutilating one from a spare Shure cable.  Even better would be to replace the 2,5mm socket in the Shure headphone with a 3,5mm one instead, then it will be easier for you to build a nice cable.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post

Or if there is space, I would recommend a mini-XLR.  More secure.  I did that with my Shure SRH840's.  Same pinout as AKG phones.

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post #10617 of 11970
12/2/12 at 4:34pm

Okay guys two quick questions;

 

One, does solder quality matter a ton? I got mine just off the shelf at the local hardware store, wasnt super special or anything, but yes it is rosin core, not acid. 

 

Two, does redco offer the amphenol 3.5mm plugs in black? It says so, but theres no dropdown box or anything.

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post #10618 of 11970
12/2/12 at 4:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathdeisel View Post

Okay guys two quick questions;

 

One, does solder quality matter a ton? I got mine just off the shelf at the local hardware store, wasnt super special or anything, but yes it is rosin core, not acid. 

 

Two, does redco offer the amphenol 3.5mm plugs in black? It says so, but theres no dropdown box or anything.

A ton?  No.  But that being said, I really like Cardas Quad Eutectic solder.  Lower melting point makes it easier to solder without baking stuff.  The fumes smell nice, you can get it at reasonable prices online, and it is from an audiophile company so it must sound better!  

 

I'd call or email.  They could have just forgotten to list them.

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post #10619 of 11970
12/2/12 at 4:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathdeisel View Post

One, does solder quality matter a ton? I got mine just off the shelf at the local hardware store, wasnt super special or anything, but yes it is rosin core, not acid. 

 

Get eutectic solder if you can. Costs a little bit more but it's much easier to work with. Since eutectic solder effectively freezes up the moment heat is removed (rather than slowly harden), reliable joints are a lot easier to make.

 

Beyond that and the diameter of the solder wire (0.8mm is usually optimal), it's mostly a matter of whether you feel strongly about avoiding lead or not. More info in the FAQ, under "Tools".

 

(Edit: I use Cardas Tri Eutectic, which is more or less the same as Quad except being lead-free and more expensive. Intellectually I don't actually think the lead exposure I get is significant, but it makes me feel better to avoid leaded solder, so that's what I do.)


Edited by ardgedee - 12/2/12 at 4:56pm
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post #10620 of 11970
12/2/12 at 6:12pm

Just made this for fun and practice braiding while I'm waiting on figuring out what materials i'm gonna get for my recabling job.

Man Cat5 has so much memory to it lol

 

Crappy phone pic

1000

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