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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 705

post #10561 of 14187
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathdeisel View Post

So guys, im having issues determining wire size. As said earlier trying to just build a interconnect for amp to DAC, with RCA jacks. Found jacks here:

 

Monoprice also has house brand RCA plugs for $1.80 each. They don't look awesome but I've used them in projects and they work perfectly OK.

 

Monoprice and Markertek have better prices than Redco, but only if you're ordering a large quantity of stuff since you're looking at a base shipping charge of $5-8 on top of your order, depending on where you live.

 

For ones-and-twos things like this, Redco is probably your better bet. They also have the Neutrik NYS352G for even less than the house brand plug; I haven't tried this particular connector but in general Neutrik's NYS series have been good to me.

 

10AWG wire might technically fit through the opening in the plug shell but you'll have a hard time soldering it to the plug's tabs. Not to mention trying to get the plug shell over the joints once you're done, since the wires won't be laying flat around the joints.

 

A quartet of ultra-short 10AWG wire (what you need for a stereo connection) can be stiff enough to lift your equipment right off the shelf, too.

 

 

If your goal is to build a very short interconnect you gain little or nothing performance-wise from using massive cable; electrical effects are cumulative over distance and your cable run is considerably shorter than average. Inside your equipment, electricity is going to be conducted over much longer distances through much smaller conductors, and you don't seem to mind that.

 

Try building something with 24-22 AWG or so for your first project. No larger than 20 AWG. This will still be large for your purpose but not unwieldy. You'll be plenty happy with the result, I think.


Edited by ardgedee - 11/27/12 at 4:42am
post #10562 of 14187
Quote:
Originally Posted by ardgedee View Post

For ones-and-twos things like this, Redco is probably your better bet. They also have the Neutrik NYS352G for even less than the house brand plug; I haven't tried this particular connector but in general Neutrik's NYS series have been good to me.

 

I've used that connector. It's very easy to solder to and works perfectly. Only negative is that it doesn't have a strain relief, but RCA jacks don't tend to get strained anyway.

post #10563 of 14187

For audio interconnects, rarely would anything over 22awg be necessary or make sense.  Additionally, there are those that believe larger gauges of wire will actually hurt the sound.  The most basic Neutriks and the house RCA from Redco work just fine.  If you want to go fancier, Ram Electronics has some silver plated connectors with nice aluminum shells for $3 a pop.  Find Vintage Audio Labs on ebay if you want high end at a relatively low price.  They have rhodium plated tellurium copper RCA's with carbon fiber and rhodium plated shells for $6 a piece.  

 

Picking up a couple feet of Mogami or Canare starquad with any of these connectors will give you a very nice interconnect.  

post #10564 of 14187
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tangster View Post

I've used that connector. It's very easy to solder to and works perfectly. Only negative is that it doesn't have a strain relief, but RCA jacks don't tend to get strained anyway.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post

For audio interconnects, rarely would anything over 22awg be necessary or make sense.  Additionally, there are those that believe larger gauges of wire will actually hurt the sound.  The most basic Neutriks and the house RCA from Redco work just fine.  If you want to go fancier, Ram Electronics has some silver plated connectors with nice aluminum shells for $3 a pop.  Find Vintage Audio Labs on ebay if you want high end at a relatively low price.  They have rhodium plated tellurium copper RCA's with carbon fiber and rhodium plated shells for $6 a piece.  

 

Picking up a couple feet of Mogami or Canare starquad with any of these connectors will give you a very nice interconnect.  

 

I have used the Neutrik RCA jacks too. Plenty good IMHO.  

 

The Valab RCA's are so tasty! I must find a reason to buy a pair.....

post #10565 of 14187
Quote:
Originally Posted by cogsand gears View Post

 

 

I have used the Neutrik RCA jacks too. Plenty good IMHO.  

 

The Valab RCA's are so tasty! I must find a reason to buy a pair.....

I don't understand this "reason to buy" thing you are talking about... :)

post #10566 of 14187
Quote:
Originally Posted by cogsand gears View Post

 

 

I have used the Neutrik RCA jacks too. Plenty good IMHO.  

 

The Valab RCA's are so tasty! I must find a reason to buy a pair.....

Even with international delivery $7 a piece is less than I pay for Neutriks. I might be putting in a an order from them soon.

post #10567 of 14187
post #10568 of 14187
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post


Picking up a couple feet of Mogami or Canare starquad with any of these connectors will give you a very nice interconnect.  

x1

Mogami or Canare Starquad are ace. Mogami do a mini Starquad type which is great for LODs and headphones.... Can't remember the suffix but it has 4 different coloured wires.
post #10569 of 14187

 

I'd go with solder myself.  If you're using solid wire then there's no real issue with using screw terminal connections, but if you're using stranded wire you would want to put a ferrule on the stripped portion.  From looking at their ebay listing, and a quick search of Valab connectors, it doesn't appear that they come with any, you'll need to buy some and an appropriate crimper.  Trying to tighten a screw on stranded wire will either push the wires out of its way and not make connection, or will pinch and break them.  If you're wiring something dealing with 120/240 vac and you attempt to use a screw to hold stranded wires (similar to these RCA's) it's against UL and wiring codes because it's not a secure connection and the wire could fall out and shock/electrocute someone.  No you're not going to harm anyone with your audio level signals, but I just want to stress to you that this is not a solid connection.  Even tinning the tips with solder isn't enough, as solder will deform over time and will become a loose connection.

 

Also I don't buy their selling point of "decreasing 'dirty' side effect from soldering" that's just nonsense.  I'm pretty sure that WBT suggests using ferrules with their screw terminal rca's (ok just checked, yep they use ferrules).

post #10570 of 14187
A screw clamp connector will guarantee direct metal contact. If you then solder the joint to keep it in place, I'll find it hard to criticize...biggrin.gif
post #10571 of 14187

Speaking of direct metal contact...

 

I built an RSA female -> 3.5mm TRS male adaptor a few months ago. One of the channels developed a gap, so I wanted to build a new one that would avoid some of the first one's shortcomings.

 

400

 

Principally, the nice, short wires were a liability: The run wasn't long enough for the adaptor to be limber, so the whole piece was effectively rigid. I figured my best option at this point was to have a longer run of wire between the two pieces, but I wasn't happy with an adaptor taking up too much space in my travel box...

 

So, hey:

 

1. On the TRS plug, cut down the ring solder tab to the same height as the tip tab. Cut and grind off excess metal from the sleeve tab, enough for it to safely fit between the two other tabs, plus some extra air. Also grind out a little metal at the folding point, to make it go over a little easier...

 

700

 

2. On the RSA socket, turn the solder tabs on the RSA socket 90 degrees, so they're all parallel in an opposite way that they previously were...

700

 

3. Bend the 3 and 4 tabs of the RSA socket over, and slide the sleeve tab under them. Then work at positioning the 1 and 2 tabs against the tip and ring tabs, respectively, until everything scrapes against each other with some springiness. Disassemble, tin, reassemble, solder.

700

 

I've shimmed little insulators where the sleeve tab passes between the ring and tip tabs, just to be sure it doesn't flex its way to a short, and the cavity's filled with hot glue now.

 

There is no step 4 yet: I intend to make a body for it from epoxy but I needed this adaptor ASAP. So aside from a wrap of electrical tape around the middle area, I'm using it exactly like this for the time being. Looks odd but works as well as I need it to.

 

Technically this is off topic, since there was no cable involved. Sorry, guys...

post #10572 of 14187

Nice idea actually Ardgedee. So guys for wire, sorry I know tons of questions. 

 

Ive heard silver plated copper wire is worse than pure copper/occ copper, is this true? 

post #10573 of 14187
Quote:
Originally Posted by ardgedee View Post

A screw clamp connector will guarantee direct metal contact. If you then solder the joint to keep it in place, I'll find it hard to criticize...biggrin.gif

 

Talk to someone from the NEC or UL, they'll criticize it plenty.

 

Stranded wire under screw is not a good joint, sorry.  Solid wire?  Totally fine.

 

Edit.  Read this as "shoulder the joint" as in wrap the wire around the screw, my bad...  But yeah, you can always pull screw out, and solder the wire in, that would do just fine, but a non screw terminal of the same RCA might be cheaper.


Edited by samsquanch - 11/27/12 at 6:18pm
post #10574 of 14187
post #10575 of 14187
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathdeisel View Post

Ive heard silver plated copper wire is worse than pure copper/occ copper, is this true? 

 

Your Mileage May Vary. I'm going to back up the previous suggestions to get some nice Mogami or Canare wire and use that. It'll be less work for you and more failure-proof.

 

Trust me, if you end up taking to this hobby, you're not going to run out of excuses to build variations of the cable as you see fit. So while you should build for the ages, keep your plans to the short term.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by samsquanch View Post

Stranded wire under screw is not a good joint, sorry.  Solid wire?  Totally fine.

 

I only meant in the sense of using the screw to hold the wire down while he solders it in place. Granted the screw will get stuck in place along with the wire, but it wouldn't be going anywhere else anyway. Hah, didn't see your correction until after I posted. No worries; for a first project spending a little extra for a little goof-proofness isn't such a bad thing. People have certainly spent more for more pointless reasons.


Edited by ardgedee - 11/27/12 at 6:25pm
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