Hi, I used Geekout 1000 with Beyer T90 and found it a very good combo.
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Head-Fi Buying Guide (Portable Amps, DACs, & DAPs)
Last edited: 1/22/15
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Light Harmonic Geek Out EM/1000 Impressions Thread - Page 71
Gear mentioned in this thread:
I've found a way to safely toggle the Awesomefier if you're using the GO's analog volume control (if you're using the digital volume control, it's not an issue). For those unaware, here's some background of the problem:
When a user disconnects/connects the GO to their computer, the digital volume control (the slider on the left side of the LH Control Panel.. which is linked to the physical buttons on the GO) sets itself to MAX volume regardless of the level before the disconnect. Many people use the analog volume control (the sliders on the right side of the LH Control Panel.. which are typically linked to the PC's volume hotkeys) instead because the GO remembers the analog volume settings between disconnects/reconnects. If a user is using the analog volume control.. and presses the physical buttons on the GO, the GO instantly lets the digital volume control take precedence. Since the digital volume control is set to MAX by default, users run the risk of blowing their ears/cans.
Now why would someone dare do this? Because in order to toggle the Awesomefier/crossfeed, one must simultaneously press the physical buttons on the GO. If the timing of this (physical) operation isn't really well-synchronized, the GO assumes the user is letting the digital volume control (as previously noted, is set to MAX volume by default!) take precedence over the analog volume control.
To get around this issue, first ensure that the GO's DIGITAL volume control is at max volume (this is very important!). This is actually the issue the (forthcoming) FW fix from LH is supposed to address, so we're taking advantage of the 'bug,' atm. To safely toggle the crossfeed when using the analog volume control, depress+hold the UP volume button on the GO FIRST.. then depress+hold the DOWN volume button to toggle. This action doesn't even have to be done in a highly synchronized/simultaneous manner: I've held the UP button.. waited three or four second.. then pressed/held the DOWN button.. and was able to successfully toggle the crossfeed. So there you go.. happy listening!
Edited by FlySweep - 8/25/14 at 12:29pm
Yikes...I'm glad there's a workaround but I'd hate to have to do that every time I listen just to avoid hearing damage o.O Think I'll wait for an official fix, personally.
Thought I would mention that miceblue was able to loan me his Geek Out 1000 for a little over a week so I was able to get a good audition at home. The key word here is wow! It held up nicely to the HUGO that I was auditioning simultaneously - providing 90 to 95 percent of its performance at a fraction of the price, but of course with a lot less versatility. Even though I have no need of a USB DAC/AMP, I am considering getting one just to have the different signature that it brings to my CIEM. Anyways, here is my review if anyone is interested:
Edited by Barra - 8/25/14 at 3:54pm
OH, I posted my impressions on the other Geek Out thread but not this one.
When I write my review of the Geek Out, whenever I get the time to do so and I want to wait until they update the firmware for the Windows drivers, I probably won't go into detail about the Hugo since it's a demo unit with the Noble Audio lineup. Ironically, I personally wouldn't recommend either for sensitive earphones or Noble's CIEMs since both the Hugo and the Geek Out have background hiss that kind of really annoys me when I'm listening to music.
From what I hear with them and the touring HE-560 unit though, the GO does an admirable job in the sound quality department compared to the Hugo. The Hugo on the other hand has pretty much every standard unbalanced input/output connection one would need, and some nice additions with the myriad of LEDs in it (there's probably around two dozen in there for different volume/sampling/crossfeed indicators...).
Regarding the sound quality though, the Hugo still has the edge for sure overall. The imaging and instrument separation are far better with the Hugo, having a very black background between each instrument (if you can call it that). The Hugo also has a smoother and flatter frequency response in my opinion compared to the GO. The GO seems to have a slight upper-midrange/lower-treble harshness and a slight bump in the bass area somewhere. From what I personally have at hand, the ODAC/O2 was my reference DAC/amp combo. The GO has some characteristics that I like more than it, but they have slightly different sounds from one another and I still like the ODAC/O2 with some headphone pairings. The Hugo, to me, has some characteristics of both the ODAC/O2 (bass response, instrument separation, fairly clear frequency response) and GO in terms of sound, but it's more similar to the GO (smoother sound, more rounded soundstage, better imaging, more natural-sounding).
For sensitive earphones and CIEMs, I personally recommend the C5D for everyday music since it has zero background hiss. It doesn't play anything above 24/96 though, so that's a limitation. It is ready to use with Andoid and iOS 7 devices though, out of the box.
I think with the Hugo's price, you're getting a lot of input/output options, iOS/Android connectivity, and battery power that the Geek Out simply doesn't have.
Throw a linear power supply, battery pack or USB isolator/conditioner on the equation, and you'll have some serious competition. All at the tenth of the price.
Enjoyed you're review.
- - - - - - - - -
On the other note:
If you have wowed on its SQ. How much more with the Geek Wave... ^_^
Now with their experiences with the Geek Out and the upcoming Pulse, the better!
Edited by m-i-c-k-e-y - 8/25/14 at 4:59pm
But I am not referring to that. I have a GO1000 just like the reviewer.
And have noticed SQ benefits of having cleaner power.
Sorry if you have those drawbacks on you GO450.
But (as also noted by the reviewer esp. on noise), my/our experiences was/were different.
Edited by m-i-c-k-e-y - 8/26/14 at 12:04am
I'm using a TeraDak U9 Linear Power Supply and a Poweradd MP-32000 battery for powering my GO 720 with a few different cable and PC combinations.
I am using my GO on the road.
Using a Delock 65306 Y cable. Covered the 5V pin on the connector that attaches to host (Laptop/Tablet).
Power cable attached to a battery pack/charger with 4x18650.
Edited by m-i-c-k-e-y - 8/26/14 at 10:59am
(Disclaimer: I'm still waiting for the volume control FW fix, before ordering a GO.)
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