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ESW9 Recable Help

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

I'm gonna attempt a recable and have no idea what I'm doing really and need a little help.

 

First, I ordered the Mogami 2893 cable because I saw it recommended somewhere, but just realized it was for a different pair of headphones. Is that an ok cable for ESW9's?

 

Is there something better from the list here that I should be getting?

 

http://www.takefiveaudio.com/mall/shopdisplaycategories.asp?id=8&cat=Cable%2FWire

 

Second... do I need an extra piece of metal to solder the wire, or does the cable itself melt?

 

Third, do I need a glue gun or something glue the y-split beneath the shrink wrap?

 

That's it for now... once I get the materials I'll have more questions I'm sure.


Edited by mkmossop - 2/28/14 at 3:22pm
post #2 of 8

The mogami will be fine, any sort of cable will work. There is nothing in the wire that will make it work in one headphone and not work in another, they all just conduct electricity!

 

You will need some solder to connect the wire to the headphone drivers and to the connector, using your soldering iron. If your soldering iron is hot enough to melt the wires it is hot enough to damage your connector and your drivers!! You don't want to overheat any components, especially something as fragile as the drivers. If you find yourself touching soldering iron to anything for more than a couple of seconds, something is wrong and you are overheating any given component. Let it cool down before you continue. You only need heatshrink at the y-split, that will be enough to hold the wires together. Use a heat gun or hair dryer on heatshrink after you have the heatshrink in place where you want it.

 

If you are new at this be sure to do all the reading and research before you take apart your headphones and take the iron to your drivers.

post #3 of 8
Thread Starter 

Hi thanks so much for your reply! I've done a whole bunch of reading and found as many pics as I can to help and think I'm ready to start.

 

I have a few more questions before beginning soldering though. I've attached a pic of what I've done so far... basically just unsheathed the cable above the y-split, braided the wire, and heat-shrinked them.

 

 

I'm not sure how I know which wire goes where though. Can I just randomly choose which colour attaches to what, and then connect appropriately to the plug? For example could I solder the red wire to the left driver and the black wire to the left ground, and the blue wire to the right driver and the clear wire to the right ground... then on the plug solder the red wire to the left connection, the blue wire to the right connection, and twist the black and clear wires together and solder to the ground?

 

Does that make any sense? Or do I need to use a multimeter? Is the multimeter just used to figure out which connection in the can is ground and which is the driver?

 

Lastly, do I unsheath the Mogami cable below the y-split or leave it? Or is this just personal preference? My plug screw cap won't fit over the Mogami cable so I guess that means I have to unsheath it...

 

EDIT:

Oh ya... you say not to overheat any components... is there any specific temperature I should solder at? My iron goes up to 900 F, but I bought silver bearing solder (I assume silver is good?) which melts at 430 F. Is 430 too high?


Edited by mkmossop - 3/6/14 at 12:31am
post #4 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkmossop View Post
 

Hi thanks so much for your reply! I've done a whole bunch of reading and found as many pics as I can to help and think I'm ready to start.

 

I have a few more questions before beginning soldering though. I've attached a pic of what I've done so far... basically just unsheathed the cable above the y-split, braided the wire, and heat-shrinked them.

 

 

I'm not sure how I know which wire goes where though. Can I just randomly choose which colour attaches to what, and then connect appropriately to the plug? For example could I solder the red wire to the left driver and the black wire to the left ground, and the blue wire to the right driver and the clear wire to the right ground... then on the plug solder the red wire to the left connection, the blue wire to the right connection, and twist the black and clear wires together and solder to the ground?

 

Does that make any sense? Or do I need to use a multimeter? Is the multimeter just used to figure out which connection in the can is ground and which is the driver?

 

Lastly, do I unsheath the Mogami cable below the y-split or leave it? Or is this just personal preference? My plug screw cap won't fit over the Mogami cable so I guess that means I have to unsheath it...

 

EDIT:

Oh ya... you say not to overheat any components... is there any specific temperature I should solder at? My iron goes up to 900 F, but I bought silver bearing solder (I assume silver is good?) which melts at 430 F. Is 430 too high?

 

"Can I just randomly choose which colour attaches to what, and then connect appropriately to the plug?"

 

Yes you can. It does not matter what color you solder to what connector, only matters that you connect that wire to corresponding connection on the plug. So the two ground will actually be joined at the ground, the left drivers positive wire goes to left on plug (usually at the center) and the right goes to the only other connection point left, likely the protruding connection to the right of the center, but could be configured otherwise depending on the plug you are using. A multimeter would be used to test the connection, you can use it to test the connection say from the tip of the plug to the left drivers positive terminal, or middle to the right drivers, ground to either ground on either driver.

 

You want to leave the cables insulated, only take off a small amount of sheath at the point where the wire connects to driver or the plug, you should not take it off anywhere else. Remember you do not want any bare wire touching any other wire. The exception to that is the two grounds can touch, but this should only happen at the connection on the plug. If you find your plug will not accommodate your wires, it might be best to pause and find a plug that will. Now if you are talking about taking off the main insulation jacket (the outer ring), yeah you can do that, the inner wires will have another layer of insulation. Just remember, no bare wires touching!! 

 

As far as soldering temperature, keep it as low as you can. I believe I have my iron set at 350C, which equates to about 662F. If you research this a bit you will find some good answers.

post #5 of 8
Thread Starter 
Ah ok great that clears things up thank you very much.

And no I didn't mean un-sheathing the wires completely... just taking off the outer black layer.

So what readings should I see exactly on the multimeter?

Thanks again!
post #6 of 8

If your multimeter has a test for continuity it will just beep when a connection is there You can also set it to  measure resistance, if everything is connected properly it should read 0ohms. Best of luck, let us know how it goes and post pics!

post #7 of 8
Thread Starter 

Ok thanks so much. I will definitely post pics when it's done.

post #8 of 8
Thread Starter 

Ok so I'm having a bit of trouble soldering the drivers. If I remove the wooden cup on the outside I can see the area where I need to solder fine. The problem is that if I solder it with the cup removed I won't be able to reattach the cup because the screw holes will be covered by the piece containing the drivers.

 

 

A solution would be to just pull the wire through the can further and flip the driver piece over so I can solder it, but as you can see below I can't fit the wire through the hole any further. What should I do? Drill out the hole a tiny bit so I can fit the cable through?

 

 

Also the insulation split... is that ok or should I get new insulation?

 

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