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Germanium's Sound blaster ZXR mod thread - Page 4

post #46 of 218

I need verification on the circuit before I am putting my card back in at this point.

post #47 of 218
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSUZoSo View Post

But look, you can see you didn't make that connection:


:



Please call me I'm not at home so hard to text. I can clear things up better on phone
Edited by germanium - 3/30/14 at 7:06pm
post #48 of 218
Thread Starter 
Please call as I'm not home.I can answer better on phone please.
post #49 of 218

Well it's pretty simple though. Do you tie into the Takamisawa A5W-K Relay or not?  In your picture it is not tied into.

post #50 of 218
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSUZoSo View Post

Well it's pretty simple though. Do you tie into the Takamisawa A5W-K Relay or not?  In your picture it is not tied into.

No
post #51 of 218

Then my diagram is correct on those two caps.  His shows it tying into the relay on pin 5/10.

post #52 of 218
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSUZoSo View Post
 

Then my diagram is correct on those two caps.  His shows it tying into the relay on pin 5/10.


No his just overlapped those pins not connected to them look where the lead ends are, not where the diagram overlaps. by the way I'm home now I was at the pier earlier trying to get rid of my load so it was hard for me to text as I was doing so from my cell phone. your diagram was not correct because it shows either no connection at all to the board or a  shorted power supply cap which would destroy the card & possibly computer. The upper connection is exactly as the lower one should be with no connection to the relay.

 

I"m starting to get the feeling you are trying to confuse others so they won't try it when you yourself did it correctly & seemed to like the results but later tried to discourage others from doing so in this statement, ~~I think this mod should be left to people like yourself and I, because you can get similar quality gains with changing the opamps. It is different, but the amount of actual change is about equal. I would say to anyone not comfortable taking a soldering iron to perfectly good hardware to look into the Opamp Thread.

 

I think my instructions were clear & NoOneLT's diagram was very good except for where the schematic overlapped the relay pins but it was still clear enough for you to do the job correct originally. While I would agree that people with no soldering experience should not do it themselves just about anyone with rudimentary soldering experience very well can & others I recommend taking my instruction to a qualified tech to do the soldering.


Edited by germanium - 3/18/14 at 7:18pm
post #53 of 218

Well if you show a connection point between two points, you assume that is a jumper/short.  However like I said, I assumed he used the same layout.  I wish NoOneLt would just reply back and clear this up.  I am not trying to discourage anyone, I am trying to make sure that my own mod is correct.  If you look at this too quickly you would assume you solder on the relay pin and jumper back to the original two points.

post #54 of 218
Thread Starter 

As an explanation as to how I came about these modifications I figured I should give you a rundown of my earlier years trying different things till I found something that worked.

 

While I have been interested in audio since I was 5 years old. I could never afford any of the better gear so I had to make do with what I could afford. My first amp that had any kind of decent sound was a small 40 watt JVC integrated amp that at least the amp section was full D.C. coupled meaning it could amplify signal down to & including D.C.. This amp seemed to have a better sound than others in it's price & power class. At the time I didn't know how to make a amp flat down to D.C. but years later I found out & started doing that wherever I could & the results were predictably excellent but I always still felt I could get even more resolution than I was getting at that time.

 

Some years later I bought an Adcom GFA545 amp. This amp became a test bed for many ideas some of which worked & some which didn't. I wanted to D.C. couple it but D.C. offset was too high at the input to be safe it seemed so I started looking for other things I could do to improve this amp as it definitely needed improvement. The upper midrange & treble was too bright & the bass end was soft & soggy sounding. I seriously wanted to correct that sound signature. So I started playing around with the caps going to ground from the negative feedback circuit which had if I remember correctly a 47uf electrolytic cap bypassed by a 1uf metalized film cap. As a test I pulled 1uf metalized film cap & the sound became very dead. This told me that the loss caused by the electrolytic cap was quite huge. Because the gain of this amp was quite large at 20+db the character faults of the electrolytic was amplified by the same degree. I was able to later substitute a metalized film cap of huge size (100uf) & this corrected the split personality between the bass & the midrange. I now had firm  very well defined bass that went very deep & much clearer & fuller sounding midrange & treble. I still other issues to fix with this amp such grainy texture to the sound which I fixed by replacing the ceramic frequency compensation cap with a silvered mica cap, much improved no more grainy texture to the sound. There was many other things I did with this amp as well to improve thing as well but I'm going to consider those a trade secret for now as if I can get with someone who could design basic amp circuits I have some special tricks up my sleeve for them.

 

It was this experimental phase in my life that lead me to conclude that electrolytic caps are just a necessary evil that is very hard to get around but if one could get rid of them or assist them with a much higher grade cap that things could be vastly improved but unlike many people who only used small metalized film caps I chose to go as large as possible even use them in the power supply as I was sure that there was still a fair amount of signal loss even there & sure enough my experiments have shown this to be true.

 

Later I began experimenting with sound cards for computer & found much the same to be true that I could get much better sound by D.C. coupling & bypassing power supply caps with metalized film initially of smaller value but still larger than anybody else was using for this purpose & as time progressed I started using larger ones in an attempt to get a better & more even sound signature than possible using small bypasses that most manufacturers use. The extra room inside the computer case was a huge boon to my experimentation as I could use quite large ones that wouldn't fit in the confines of most stereo components.

 

My goal was to approach as closely as possible the sound of very high end gear that cost more than 100,000dollars with only spending 1% of that amount. I feel that I have accomplished that. I may not be able to fill a large room like them or play as loud as them but within its power capability this system that I have now performs as well at any reasonable volume. The imaging is even better on mine due to the fact that

 

1. They are small

 

2. I have them positioned in the room to prevent nearby reflection of sound

 

3. They are positioned in the room in a manner to break up standing waves with little or no room treatment necessary.

post #55 of 218
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSUZoSo View Post
 

Well if you show a connection point between two points, you assume that is a jumper/short.  However like I said, I assumed he used the same layout.  I wish NoOneLt would just reply back and clear this up.  I am not trying to discourage anyone, I am trying to make sure that my own mod is correct.  If you look at this too quickly you would assume you solder on the relay pin and jumper back to the original two points.


Why you asking NoOne Lt? He is not the one that came up with these mods , I Am the one. He was just going by my picture & directions when he made the schematic on the back side of the card about my mod. I'm telling you & you seen in my picture there is no connection to the relay. He has not even done the mod himself yet.


Edited by germanium - 3/18/14 at 10:51pm
post #56 of 218

Hey, i believe problem was that it seemed from drawing that green caps should touch one unnecessary pin. Fixed drawing on the first page, it looks like this now, only caps legs should be shorten/bypassed, nothing more:

Still waiting for my mod :(

post #57 of 218
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoOneLt View Post
 

Hey, i believe problem was that it seemed from drawing that green caps should touch one unnecessary pin. Fixed drawing on the first page, it looks like this now, only caps legs should be shorten/bypassed, nothing more:

Still waiting for my mod :(

 

Thank you very much

post #58 of 218

Awesome, that means I did it right, lol.

 

When I was trying to Photoshop his diagram I ended up drawing a short, instead of connecting the leads to make a single on each end as it was done.

post #59 of 218
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSUZoSo View Post

Awesome, that means I did it right, lol.

When I was trying to Photoshop his diagram I ended up drawing a short, instead of connecting the leads to make a single on each end as it was done.

Sorry about what I said earlier about seeming that you were trying to cause confusion as I now see what you were trying to correct. Thank you for your persistence. Bear in mind that during the day time I'm out on the road hauling heavy container freight & it is hard for me to respond in text as I have be stopped. & I generally have very limited time to answer in text.

I would like to actually speak with you sometime however about hi-fi in general.

Thank You also to NoOneLt for his quick fixing of his diagram to prevent any further confusion.
Edited by germanium - 3/19/14 at 12:47pm
post #60 of 218

I have to say now that I have given this mod time to break in with the new op-amps it is by far the highest resolution audio source I have, which is impressive because it's coming out of loud speakers.  I have $500 in headphones and headphone amp + tubes and about $900 in my car (Kenwood Excelon X994 + Kenwood KAC-8405 4 Ch Amp + Infinity Kappa 4x6" Plate and 6x9" + 12" Bazooka 200W) and I prefer my signal chain that starts with the modded ZXR.  I have it going into the multi-channel input on my Yamaha RX-V863, which automatically just amplifies the source and can't be altered by digital circuitry.  They even have a setting called Pure Direct will kill all PCBs non-essential like video processing, so it's a great amp to pair with a sound card.  Then that is going into a 5.2 setup that you can see in my sig.  The warmth is only matched by my modded Aune T1 and SoundMAGIC HP100, but the resolution is unmatched by anything I have.  Although my car is damn good for a car, it can't keep up with this much equipment even though it is completely jam packed.

 

Overall I would say this is one of the most worthwhile mods I have done on anything and I have done a lot of mods including soldering directly to motherboards and video cards.

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