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Doodlebug - USB Isolator - Page 5

post #61 of 197

Also, IC1 on the board is IC2 on the BOM, and vice versa.

post #62 of 197
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishski13 View Post
 

my MF V-Link USB-S/PDIF converter draws a max 160mA.  I'm wondering if the 200mA DC current rating of the ferrites is enough engineering margin of error?

Well it should support up to 500mA, so 200mA is going to be too small. It won't matter on the input side though.

post #63 of 197

R5 is one of the four 24 ohm resistors.

C8 is one of the four 0.1 uF bypass caps.

The ferrites are supposed to be rated for 1500mA

 

There is an auto-reset fuse @ 500mA on the 5 volt out.


Edited by Avro_Arrow - 2/13/14 at 4:06am
post #64 of 197

My apologies everyone....I should have double checked Tom's BOM.

 

The ferrite on mouser should have been this one.

The ferrite on digi-key should have been this one.

post #65 of 197
There are only three 24 ohm resistors and three 0.1uF capacitors listed on thr BOM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avro_Arrow View Post

R5 is one of the four 24 ohm resistors.
C8 is one of the four 0.1 uF bypass caps.
The ferrites are supposed to be rated for 1500mA

There is an auto-reset fuse @ 500mA on the 5 volt out.
post #66 of 197

 

Tom is offline currently due to weather but

he want me to pass along that he will send

everyone the missing cap and resistor.

post #67 of 197
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avro_Arrow View Post
 

 

Tom is offline currently due to weather but

 

he want me to pass along that he will send

everyone the missing cap and resistor.

Back up!

 

Ferrites will be sent, too. Sorry about these mistakes. :o 

 

As for the mini-USB jack, if you use some flush cutters and cut right across the holes in the mounting tabs, that should allow you to solder it down flush.  I was still able to solder it from the bottom and have the solder wick through up the sides of the jack's body.  It's fairly easy if you get the tabs cut just enough to let the jack be flush to the PCB.  Then the plastic locating pins will keep it straight while you solder from the bottom of the PCB.

post #68 of 197
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by smial1966 View Post
 

Eventually, will the Doodlebug be available built to purchase? As there are those of us that really are technically inept. :(


Yes, that's the plan - along with kits, too, of course.

post #69 of 197
Thread Starter 

OK - sorry again for all these mistakes.:o

 

1. The missing parts (C8, R5) and the correct ferrites (L1 - L4) have been ordered.  I will ship them out to each of you when I receive them, which should be no later than Monday, or Tuesday at the very latest.

2. I've made the corrections to the BOM and uploaded all new files.  Please check it for me guys and see if everything is OK at this point.

post #70 of 197

The Mouser BOM looks good.

 

Digi-Key BOM:

 

J2 should be PJ058AH

L1-L4 should be this one

 

I'm testing this 9 VAC adapter to add to the list.

 

Here is an enhanced silk screen layer to help with parts placement.

 

post #71 of 197

Opps...that J2 was out of stock.

 

 

This PJ-058A instead...


Edited by Avro_Arrow - 2/13/14 at 10:08am
post #72 of 197

 

Just checked the mail...Got my board...Yah!

 

My parts should be here in a couple hours too.

 

Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow...

post #73 of 197
Thread Starter 

 

 

 

 

;)

post #74 of 197
Excellent, thanks for letting me know. Good luck to all those intrepid DIY builders out there!

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomb View Post


Yes, that's the plan - along with kits, too, of course.
post #75 of 197
Thread Starter 

OK - here's another goof up.  I guess it's good that I at least gave you the PCB's for free after all of this.

 

Do not use the Right-Angle USB Type A jack given in the BOM - either from DigiKey or Mouser.  It's reversed.

 

I will be sending the correct one in the mail with the cap, resistor, and ferrites. :o

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