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Toshiba 3950 power supply mods (with pics) - Page 24

post #346 of 353
I finally got the courage to try this mod again after lifting the pads. I got the chip off fine this time. Nothing exploded and sound actually came out too. But...the right channel's volume is extremely low. What could cause this? I would appreciate any suggestions. Also, I did the browndog adapter mod.
post #347 of 353
Figured it out. Looking through a maginifying glass, I saw my connections for the browndog adapter to a couple of the pads were not good. I retouched them up and bingo! That was tough with the caps in the way.
post #348 of 353
Now, I am getting a popping sound from the right channel when not playing music. Also, the signal seems low.
post #349 of 353
If anyone needs a 3950 for spare parts and a new in bag OPA2604AU-ND opamp , here is my listing: http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=116499
post #350 of 353
post #351 of 353
I dont have this Toshiba but a Philips DVP 3960.I replaced all electrolytics in the power supply with Panny fm's/Rubycon zl. No problem there at all.The other board is the audio-video board---I replaced some caps with Elna Silmic II's and Ruby zl's. The sound and video is friggin outstanding,however,I gave up after 8 caps.

They are just too darn difficult to get out.I admit I need a new soldering iron something terrible.All of the ones I replaced are the larger values from 1000uf down to 100uf and two pairs of 47uf on this board.

This model from Wallmart was $45 bux . Once you set the audio in the menu to "action" lookout !

Now,I wish I could locate the Toshiba locally and the only model I found was something like the 4000 series at Best Buy in the $60-70 dollar range.

Still,a BIG THANK YOU for this thread even though my player does not apply
post #352 of 353
A hot soldering iron and some decent desoldering braid works wonders for this.

After wicking away the bulk of the solder, a touch of heat while applying lateral pressure against the cap, alternately between the cap's two legs, will typically allow it to come right out. Good for a quick mobo fix, too.
post #353 of 353
Thanks Voodoochile ! I have soldering wick and still it's too difficult on these caps for me.They're pressed into the board so tight with solder on the top and bottom.Some,once I get them out I cant clear the hole enough to put the new cap in.The legs on the Silmics are almost too thick even when I used a dremel to file them down.

I'm gonna stop here as one of the pads I lifted and went thru hell trying to fix.Yes,I'd like to replace every cap on the board but some of those are clustered together with other tiny components nearby.

Not willing to risk this...especially,if I pull one of the surface mount resistors off the board.I have experience in the past with soldering so this is nothing new to me.I guess my patience is wearing thin and I truly need to invest in a better soldering iron with the proper tips.

So far ,I'm satisfied where I stand with this player. It's performance has increased a lot just from what caps have been swapped out.Man,on well recorded soundtracks those Silmics really add some punch.I'm still using a composite cable as I prefer this over the component cables for picture quality.My tv has no progressive scan but it's still impressive.

This thread has been a blast and a good read from start to finish.Wish I could hear one of the modded Toshibas'.
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