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NEW Vali Schiit AMP!!! - Page 107

post #1591 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soundsgoodtome View Post
 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400601021200?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
^ Supposedly these are Etymotic OEMs, you can see them being sold for $25-$29 by another USA seller on Ebay. I've got one coming in tomorrow.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271193304830?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
^ I purchased one of these and they came very quickly from China (via HK EMS).

Both add 75ohm load on top of your headphones. There's another seller that sells multiple loads, from 50 to 300ohms. I believe if I go the EMOTIVA A-100 route, that's what's in line between the phones and amp. Or build a ladder-style attenuator box.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by darinf View Post
 

http://microphonemadness.com/categories/attentuator_cables.html

http://www.core-sound.com/attenuator-cables/6.php

Harrison Labs 6 dB RCA Line Level Attenuator Pair

Sescom iPhone / iPod / iPad TRRS to 25dB 3.5mm Line Level and 3.5mm Monitor Jack-by-Sescom - These types of cables to attenuate from line level to mic level are all -25dB which is probably way too much attenuation though.

 

Based on my unscientific test with my Nano Patch, I am guessing -5dB to -10dB attenuation is about right for 30 ohm IEM's.

Me Gusta Guys!  I might try the Vali and one of those Attenuators before I balance my W1000x. Sadly the NFb10es2 is sounding to cold for the W1000x again. She sounds a touch sterile again... nice intimate upper mids, good bass but those low mids seems to suffer... once again I feel I need a nice tube for them :3 

 

That said, the Vali is at a great price! 

post #1592 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soundsgoodtome View Post
 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400601021200?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
^ Supposedly these are Etymotic OEMs, you can see them being sold for $25-$29 by another USA seller on Ebay. I've got one coming in tomorrow.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271193304830?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
^ I purchased one of these and they came very quickly from China (via HK EMS).

Both add 75ohm load on top of your headphones. There's another seller that sells multiple loads, from 50 to 300ohms. I believe if I go the EMOTIVA A-100 route, that's what's in line between the phones and amp. Or build a ladder-style attenuator box.

How is the cable from China? Does it color the sound at all?

 

Why order the other one from the US? To try it because it's cheaper and from the US?

 

I think the pot on the Nano Patch might affect the sound, but I am guessing these cables might not.

 

Anyone else have experience with these attenuators?

 

Once you search for an Etymotic ER4P to ER4S adapter, other options appear on EBay and elsewhere which vary in price:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.XER4P+to+ER4S&_nkw=ER4P+to+ER4S&_sacat=0&_from=R40

post #1593 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by purrin View Post
 

Let the tubes warm up and the HE-500 isn't so bright with the Vali. Still, I wouldn't consider the Vali a dark, laid-back, or overly warm sounding amp. And I actually prefer the HE-500 to be on the brighter side than dark. The HE-500 does measure with a mid-treble peak. I've tended to use slight EQ -3db at 10k. I'm not afraid to use EQ, so "tonal matching" between gear isn't a big deal for me. I do have an alternative setup for the HE-500 - mainly out of the Mjolnir - and then from the Mjolnir into a speaker power amp. But that's aiming for a different set of priorities: speed, control, precision, etc. The HE-500 from the Vali is the give me goose-bumps setup.

 

at the risk of beating the dead Vali horse, I only want to remind our fellow listeners that your HE-500 + Vali raves are appreciated, but not matched by all.

 

I do prefer my HE-500 with the Lyr with "good tubes" (Ediswan, RTC) over the Vali.  (Lyr showed improved soundstage, bass clarity, instrument separation)

sure, in that config is:  $449 Lyr + $160 tubes vs. $119 vali.

 

is the Lyr 5X better in sound quality over the Vali?  I'd say no.

but I really wish Purrin would have thrown out those god awful Lyr JJ tubes on Day 1.   ;)

post #1594 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by darinf View Post
 

How is the cable from China? Does it color the sound at all?

 

Why order the other one from the US? To try it because it's cheaper and from the US?

 

I think the pot on the Nano Patch might affect the sound, but I am guessing these cables might not.

 

Anyone else have experience with these attenuators?

 

Once you search for an Etymotic ER4P to ER4S adapter, other options appear on EBay and elsewhere which vary in price:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.XER4P+to+ER4S&_nkw=ER4P+to+ER4S&_sacat=0&_from=R40



The cable from China (2nd link on my post) doesn't color the sound but it does bring down the treble by a few DB, nothing drastic. Hopefully 'coloring' the sound doesn't mean decreasing the treble? (clarification please) This is favorable on a bright headphone like my SRH1440, which is also a low impedance/high efficiency phone. I originally intended to use it with my Yulong D100 and IEMs to be able to move the POT to a higher position but I found it changes the treble on the MDR-7550 and RE400s more than to my liking. Keep in mind that those two IEMS have their treble a few DBs below the rest of the range, moreso on the RE400s. It seems the sound stays true more-so on the full sized HPs, not sure why.

I've yet to try it on the DT880s or HE400, which don't need attenuation for my setup. Maybe I'll try it on the HA-S500 later tonight.

As for ordering the second set, I wanted something to compare the Chinese ones to. They're marketed for Etymotic and UE (two different listings on Ebay but they look identical even in picture, one being $29 the other $6) IEMS so I figured maybe those might work better. We'll see.


Edited by Soundsgoodtome - 12/3/13 at 4:13pm
post #1595 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soundsgoodtome View Post
 



The cable from China (2nd link on my post) doesn't color the sound but it does bring down the treble by a few DB, nothing drastic. Hopefully 'coloring' the sound doesn't mean decreasing the treble? (clarification please) This is favorable on a bright headphone like my SRH1440, which is also a low impedance/high efficiency phone.

By "color" the sound I mean change the sound in any way. I would rather not use anything that changes say the frequency response or imaging, etc. To me, decreasing the treble is not a good thing for an attenuator or cable.

 

I'll be interested to hear from you if the $6 Ebay adapter changes the sound at all.

 

Thanks!

post #1596 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by darinf View Post
 

By "color" the sound I mean change the sound in any way. I would rather not use anything that changes say the frequency response or imaging, etc. To me, decreasing the treble is not a good thing for an attenuator or cable.

 

I'll be interested to hear from you if the $6 Ebay adapter changes the sound at all.

 

Thanks!


I'll give it an extended listen and let you know. It could just be an overall attenuated sound that I didn't increase to match volume level when I tested it. As of now I'm using a better matched amp for my IEMs while using the DAC/Line Out on the D100 so I haven't really given it it's full deserving listen.

I'll let you know on the $6 adapters as well.

post #1597 of 4963
Originally Posted by DaveUpton View Post
 

How about Vali vs Ember (granted Ember can sound like anything really)  - how does it stack up?

 

Like you said, the Ember is "chameleon-like" in its ability to let a tube's sound through (and add little else).  I've been trying to find what tube in my collection best approximates the Vali's sound (to make comparisons between the amps a little more uniform).. and it's proving difficult.  I prefer to use the Ember with orthos (HE-500, Paradox, etc.) over my favorite high impedance dynamics (HD600, HD800, etc).  BTW.. running the HD600 off a speaker amp (with a resistor network between the amp and headphone) is truly wonderful.. but that's OT.

 

With the HE-500, the Ember vs Vali is a real toss up.  I'm using some pretty nice tubes with the Ember (early 60s, USA-made Amperex "PQ" 6DJ8 among others).  Vs the Vali, the Ember is a little more multi-dimensional as far as soundstage goes.. with the HE-500 driven off the Ember, it's bass is punchier & better controlled vs the Vali.  The Vali is more transparent and arguably more detailed, though (to what degree varies based on the tube used in the Ember).

 

Purrin mentioned letting the Vali 'warm up' for a while before evaluating.. I wholeheartedly agree with this.  The Vali just seems to generally sound 'better' after it's been powered on for a good 20 to 30 minutes.. I can't put my finger on what exactly it is (heck, toss placebo into this, if you wish).. but the Vali seems to sound more effortless and the bass, in particular, sounds better controlled after a brief 'warm up' period.

 

Originally Posted by kstuart View Post


I have not heard the Crack (since I don't have HD600 or 650), but I know some guys who like it a lot and they are exactly the sort of listeners who would notice the relatively poor timbre of the Vali.  I'm gathering that the majority of readers of a thread about $119 amps don't listen to music with much variety of instruments, so they would not notice.

 

Interesting.. I don't find the Vali to have 'poor' timbre.. even compared to my (speedballed) Crack.. but I'll keep listening and observing.

post #1598 of 4963

This is an update to a post I made on Saturday concerning an issue I noticed with the Vali I had just received.  As it turns out my unit has a continuous strong ring in the right channel that develops slowly (within 10 minutes) after the amp is turned on.  This occurs with the Vali isolated from vibrations and not touched in anyway.  When I first turn it on it is dead quiet but the ringing starts and builds in intensity over time.  The ringing can be cleared by turning the amp off and on again but it reoccurs.  This happens to the right channel only.  Unfortunately, the ringing is pretty loud and is very distracting.

 

My set up is PC, Uber Bifrost, Vali to HE400/HD600 phones.  I have tested this over the past few days and confirmed that it is a reoccurring problem.  I have done everything I can to isolate the amp from vibrations but the issue persists.  I understand that tube amps have inherent microphonic issues but this seems to be a problem beyond that.

 

To Schiit's credit they were terrific about handling this.  As soon as I contacted them by email they responded with a prepaid shipping label and sent out a new amp.  I love the sound of the Vali especially with my HE400s.  My principal amp is the Asgard 1 and the Vali adds so much more life to the music I've been able to listen to so far.  The word fun has been tossed about a lot and I have to agree with it.  The Vali is just flat out fun to listen to.

 

With that said, I believe the issue I've been having is very rare and not indicative of the design or general build quality of the Vali.  I can't wait to get my replacement unit and I fully expect it to perform flawlessly.  Once again, thanks to Schiit for great customer service.

post #1599 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by rreifsn View Post
 Once again, thanks to Schiit for great customer service.

SO let's assume the Vali sounds just as good as the Bravo  V2, Ocean, the Project Ember and the Indeed G3

 

my question is, will any of those company match Schiit's service? I have strong doubts, hence. Still super stocked to get this amp! I like what's Schiit's doing realeasing this amp, and as a company I"m always happy to hear they put their customers first [wish they'd offer more black amps <3] but that aside. I'm egar to support them :3, good customer service is a heck of a lot better than a black chasis imo [boy it'd be great to have both though xD] 

 

Again my expectations of this amp, are not so much in how it sounds but more so it's build quality, and the quality of the company behind it :3 

 

That and I'm sure it sounds a little better than the 3 amps I listed above, all of can get expensive when you start rolling tubes into them! For a $100 Hybrid Tube... I kinda like the idea of one and DONE 

post #1600 of 4963
@ FlySweep

It's standard practice to let a tube amp warm up (any amp really, but especially tube) before judging it.
post #1601 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mshenay View Post
 

my question is, will any of those company match Schiit's service? I have strong doubts, hence. Still super stocked to get this amp! I like what's Schiit's doing realeasing this amp, and as a company I"m always happy to hear they put their customers first [wish they'd offer more black amps <3] but that aside. I'm egar to support them :3, good customer service is a heck of a lot better than a black chasis imo [boy it'd be great to have both though xD] 

 

Again my expectations of this amp, are not so much in how it sounds but more so it's build quality, and the quality of the company behind it :3 

 

+1

post #1602 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlySweep View Post
 

Purrin mentioned letting the Vali 'warm up' for a while before evaluating.. I wholeheartedly agree with this.  The Vali just seems to generally sound 'better' after it's been powered on for a good 20 to 30 minutes.. I can't put my finger on what exactly it is (heck, toss placebo into this, if you wish).. but the Vali seems to sound more effortless and the bass, in particular, sounds better controlled after a brief 'warm up' period.

There are some reasonable electronics explanation for this.  Even in a solid state amp, it is common knowledge that it takes 5 minutes for the "bias" circuit to stabilize.  A tube has much more heat and so more heat-related effects.

 

Thus a designer will adjust values in the circuit only after the hand built prototype is warmed up, so he can be sure that the values of parts will then stay the same throughout most of the listening session.

 

So, solid state gear should warm up for 5 minutes, and tube gear for, as you say, 20-30 minutes.

post #1603 of 4963

Ordered Sunday morning and shipped Tuesday, that's fast as schiit!!!

post #1604 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by kstuart View Post

There are some reasonable electronics explanation for this.  Even in a solid state amp, it is common knowledge that it takes 5 minutes for the "bias" circuit to stabilize.  A tube has much more heat and so more heat-related effects.

Thus a designer will adjust values in the circuit only after the hand built prototype is warmed up, so he can be sure that the values of parts will then stay the same throughout most of the listening session.

So, solid state gear should warm up for 5 minutes, and tube gear for, as you say, 20-30 minutes.
A solid state amp can be just as hot as the hottest tube amps, it's just that tubes seem to be more vulnerable to it's effects.
post #1605 of 4963
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlySweep View Post

 

Purrin mentioned letting the Vali 'warm up' for a while before evaluating.. I wholeheartedly agree with this.

 

Thermionic emission of the filament. Filament takes time to heat up to release electrons which travel to the plate. The curve is asymptotic. Once the filament heats up and electrons are more willing to fly off of it, we get better control, more effortless, fuller sound, etc. Definitely not BS or placebo. Vali is thin, bright, sharp and grainy while cold. The good thing about about tubes is that this behavior will be very consistent throughout the working life of the tube.

 

Some solid-state gear requires several hours to days to stabilize - should never be turned off. I keep my DACs (solid-state) on, or leave them on for at least two days before I do any any comparisons.


Edited by purrin - 12/3/13 at 5:40pm
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