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Audeze LCD-X - Page 329

post #4921 of 5039
Quote:
Originally Posted by commtrd View Post
 


I have never thought the Mjolnir was too bright but then I have never had any other amp (or dac) so it is possible I just don't know any better. How can one determine if it is the amp or the dac imparting a certain quality (or lack thereof) to the sound? To me the sound quality has always been absolutely stunning with all my Audeze phones including the X. Someday I would like to be able to listen to some other amp/dac combos just to compare with what I am hearing on my system. Right now no funds to try to upgrade anything which is OK since my stuff sounds really good (to me). I will say I kind of miss the creamy mids of the LCD3(c) I had but in no way implying that the X I have now is not a great headphone. It is. But would it be even better with a better amp and dac? Is the dac more contributing to the sound quality moreso than is the amp? Is the dac just fine and the amp too "forward/aggressive" as some say? I have no way of knowing -but- it sounds good to me so that's the way it will be for a while anyway... I just listen to the music and be happy!

i first got the mjolnir when i had the lcd2.2, that was a great pairing to me, loved it.

then i sold the lcd2, and got the lcdx, and while it wasn't so bright it made listening difficult, i just felt it was a tad bright for my taste.

as for which component effects the sound more than another, the only way i know is hearing for yourself.

if you're getting sound you like, thats all that matters, but amps, and dacs can make a difference in a systems character.

if you like it, then its good,

post #4922 of 5039

I listen to my system for hours on end every day and no issues here. Sounds great and comfortable as well.

post #4923 of 5039

One way out of noise issues is to just take the wall AC out of the equation all together ... I have an LCD-3F and use a Red Wine Audio Cassabria and am completely happy with it. I had planned on an Eddy Current or Cavalli, but the RWA is a really superb amp and I feel competes in the uber amp space. It's interesting since it has a massive lithium battery instead of a conventional power supply, but it works marvelously well and has to be on of the quietest amps there is. If I am using my laptop, iFi micro iDSD, and RWA Cassabria them my entire audio chain is running on battery power. It's pretty slick.

post #4924 of 5039
Quote:
Originally Posted by KmanChu View Post
 

One way out of noise issues is to just take the wall AC out of the equation all together ... I have an LCD-3F and use a Red Wine Audio Cassabria and am completely happy with it. I had planned on an Eddy Current or Cavalli, but the RWA is a really superb amp and I feel competes in the uber amp space. It's interesting since it has a massive lithium battery instead of a conventional power supply, but it works marvelously well and has to be on of the quietest amps there is. If I am using my laptop, iFi micro iDSD, and RWA Cassabria them my entire audio chain is running on battery power. It's pretty slick.


unfortunately (or fortunately) electronics power supplies are all switching so I am not sure the advantage of running from battery as opposed to line voltage assuming a properly floating ground.

post #4925 of 5039
Quote:
Originally Posted by groovyd View Post
 


unfortunately (or fortunately) electronics power supplies are all switching so I am not sure the advantage of running from battery as opposed to line voltage assuming a properly floating ground.

Various devices throughout the house spit noise back into the mains (including things like dimmer switches.) Some of this does get through even a well designed power supply. Hence all of the various power accessories/regenerators from companies like PS Audio. Battery supply is another extreme option for eliminating this noise.

post #4926 of 5039
Thanks for the advice! I'm still leaning towards the WA22 as I'd like to get a tube amp that's balanced. I'm going to keep the Mjolnir though, at least to start. Is there any problem using XLR splitters out of the Gungnir and in to Mojlnir and WA22?
post #4927 of 5039
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywillin View Post
 

 

i found the mjo a bit bright with my lcd x's, and i got the bryston bha-1 and love the pairing, and its great with my gs1000e's too

i've never noticed any line noise creeping in,

i've always been a tube guy, i've tried other solid state amps, the bryston is the first one i've kept for any length of time.

 

Interesting new avatar, Jay!

First impression = I Like It

:beerchug:

post #4928 of 5039
Quote:
Originally Posted by RCBinTN View Post
 

 

Interesting new avatar, Jay!

First impression = I Like It

:beerchug:

 

well, when you got jerry, combined with the "world's most interesting man" how can you go wrong ?? lol

thanks !   :D

post #4929 of 5039
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywillin View Post
 

 

well, when you got jerry, combined with the "world's most interesting man" how can you go wrong ?? lol

thanks !   :D

 

Right on, jerry.  :biggrin:

post #4930 of 5039
Quote:
Originally Posted by IndieGradoFan View Post

I'm currently using my LCD-X with a Gungnir/Mjolnir stack. Unfortunately, the Mjolnir is too sensitive to AC power line noise and as a result, hums on various circuits throughout my house - mostly due to Lutron dimmers

Before changing amp did you try AC conditioners to remove harmonics and RF noise? Or an aftermarket power cable of good quality? Even a simple ground lifter adapter?
post #4931 of 5039
Quote:
Originally Posted by IndieGradoFan View Post

I'm currently using my LCD-X with a Gungnir/Mjolnir stack. Unfortunately, the Mjolnir is too sensitive to AC power line noise and as a result, hums on various circuits throughout my house - mostly due to Lutron dimmers. As such, I'm in the market for a new amp to pair with the Gungnir and LCD-X.

I'm interested in the Ragnarok but since it is based on a similar topology as the Mjolnir, I'm concerned I'll have the same problems -- it is also rather large for desktop use. I'm currently leaning towards a WA22. Does anyone have any other suggestions or thoughts on the WA22? I'd like it to pair well with my balanced RS1is as well.

Thanks!

 

How do you know it's the dimmers' fault?

 

I used to have hum through my system too.  Thought it was RF interference through the interconnects.  By chance, ran the system thru SPDIF and the noise was gone.  So I traced it down to the USB that connect my computer to the DAC.  Now, I ran a separate USB power supply and problem corrected.  

 

All amps convert AC to DC via rectification.  There are several and simple ways to remove rectified ripples so I don't believe that Schiit didn't do this correctly.  Check other things in the signal path.  The problem may not be what you're suspected.

 

Skip the WA22, may as well get the WA5.  I've seen lots of folks went to WA22 to eventually upgrade to the WA5.     

post #4932 of 5039
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sko0byDoo View Post
 

 

How do you know it's the dimmers' fault?

Mostly through process of elimination. The amp hums in the right channel only when I have one or more dimmers on in the house. I can make the hum louder by turning on more dimmers and increasing the amount of dimming. This happens even when there's no source connected. As soon as I turn the dimmers off, problem goes away. It's always the right channel -- if I swap channels going to the headphone, the hum stays with right channel of amp.

 

Note that before installing the IS500HG isolation transformer the hum was much worse and bass frequencies had major distortion -- to the point that it sounded like the drivers were blown. The IS500HG fixed that entirely, but the dimmer noise remains.

 

I asked Tripp Lite about installing a line filter in series with the IS500HG but they didn't think it would make a difference.

 

A cheater plug did not make a difference, which makes sense to me. If it was a ground loop, the isolation transformer should have fixed it. The dimmer RFI is on hot/neutral though.

 

I also went through Schiit tech support a few times -- even as far as returning my original Mjolnir b/c I thought it was defective. They have no further suggestions past the isolation transformer. Frustrating, because the house was built in 2008 and I have no issues with any other amps / audio equipment.

 

Sorry for the tangent away from LCD-X though!

post #4933 of 5039

Can the Burson Soloist SL drive the LCD-X or the LCD-3? It has 2W power at 16ohms.

post #4934 of 5039
Quote:
Originally Posted by metaldood View Post

Can the Burson Soloist SL drive the LCD-X or the LCD-3? It has 2W power at 16ohms.


 



Yes it can drive them both and does so pretty well if you like it's sound signature. I had it briefly my LCD-3's but didn't care for the combo too much too be honest, obviously the X would be easier to drive too.
post #4935 of 5039
Quote:
Originally Posted by goldendarko View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by metaldood View Post
 

Can the Burson Soloist SL drive the LCD-X or the LCD-3? It has 2W power at 16ohms.

 



Yes it can drive them both and does so pretty well if you like it's sound signature. I had it briefly my LCD-3's but didn't care for the combo too much too be honest, obviously the X would be easier to drive too.

 

Thank you! :)

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