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A Dap that works well in a car?

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

Hi guys i need help finding a Dap that works well in the car, through aux? I tried the sansa clip zip and it sounded to soft and out of curiosity i plugged the AK 120 as well and got the same result. So i was wondering am i only left with the ipod or are there any other options such as the X3?

 

Thanks guys

post #2 of 8

why not buy a new hand unit?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Law336 View Post
 

Hi guys i need help finding a Dap that works well in the car, through aux? I tried the sansa clip zip and it sounded to soft and out of curiosity i plugged the AK 120 as well and got the same result. So i was wondering am i only left with the ipod or are there any other options such as the X3?

 

Thanks guys

post #3 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Law336 View Post
 

Hi guys i need help finding a Dap that works well in the car, through aux? I tried the sansa clip zip and it sounded to soft and out of curiosity i plugged the AK 120 as well and got the same result. So i was wondering am i only left with the ipod or are there any other options such as the X3?

 

Thanks guys

 

How integrated are the other functions and the radio into the dash? Because your first option really should be to change the HU. Of course, a true line out might be better than those, but the thing is if you swap out a new head unit, many of the current models have a USB input on the front and all you need to do is stick a USB drive into it. Or better yet, look into Alpine's newer media units - instead of making you pay for an optical drive (we dampen CDPs at home for a reason, between that and a USB that takes lossless....) they ditch that and you can use a 2.5in HDD with it.

 

It might seem expensive, but hey, it will still come out cheaper (head unit, maybe the dash kit and labor cost for installation, and the $125 piggyback amp from Alpine) than the AK120. I mean, I can rebuild my car sound system with that money if I DIY the installations, including fiberglass fabrication for the tweeters and kickpanel midwoofers (and use drivers from Parts Express), and use my old amp (which I really love still, despite its dinosaur size and A/B topology).

 

My Vifas in tweeter pods in case you might wonder what I'm talking about in terms of DIY installs (I didn't DIY them though - I could, but a local shop did it for $100 and saved me from hacking up the pillars and making errors). Focal midwoofers in the normal door mounts as custom kickpanels get in the way when I'm wearing office or dress leather shoes.
 

700


Edited by ProtegeManiac - 10/3/13 at 9:24am
post #4 of 8
Thread Starter 

i don't want to change the satellite system in the car since i paid so much for the damn car i should have mentioned, my brother changed his to an alpine system but he not driving a lexus lol. i was interested in the cowon X9 as well but i need someone else experienced opinion?

 

Thanks


Edited by Law336 - 10/3/13 at 2:21pm
post #5 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Law336 View Post
 

i don't want to change the satellite system in the car since i paid so much for the damn car i should have mentioned, my brother changed his to an alpine system but he not driving a lexus lol. i was interested in the cowon X9 as well but i need someone else experienced opinion?

 

Thanks

 

Well that's exactly the thing, if you spent that much on the car why not do it right and avoid a cable running to a device on the passenger seat or hung somewhere on the dash? I mean, what's the point in a beautiful, clean dashboard if you'd have that on it? What specifically do you need from a DAP that you can't get out of that system?

1) If it's the storage, doesn't it have a USB input? (I'd be surprised if Lexus doesn't have this, my brother's FR-S/86 and my Dad's Toyota minivan both have that)

2) If it's the SQ, you can just get an integration processor and an amplifier. These processors have all the sound-shaping options necessary to simulate equidistant listening, particularly time alignment for each tweeter and midwoofer plus the sub, so it applies delays to the driver's side speakers and the sub and you get better imaging on the dash, the difference being that the inputs on these can be from the speaker output of a stock receiver you don't want to remove. With proper installation of the drivers if you're willing to go that far (like the photo I posted) you can have a concert happening on your dashboard with potentially near pinpoint accuracy if done right. In a car, the listening environment (relative space between ears and each speaker, reflections off the windshield and dash, etc) has much, much, much more to do with SQ than a cheap 16-bit DAC on your stock receiver vs a 24-bit DAC on a DAP. No highres, but trust me the listening environment in a car gets in the way of the music a heck of a lot more. The amp then becomes necessary because the processor will apply crossovers before the amp, and you'd need at least 4channels of amplification when using these processors.

 

Don't dismiss this option based on warranties without doing research first. Ask your dealer about specifics and join a car audio forum to talk up local enthusiasts near you. Not only can they direct you to an installer who won't hack up your car, they can also help in directing you to the right person to talk to at the dealer so they'd understand what you're trying to do. Over here I've inquired several times (before the possibility of taking my PhD abroad was an option, and I was looking to get a new one here), and a few brands' reps can clarify that if I do that to the sound system, the only warranty I'm voiding would be the specific components that were touched - not the entire electronics system on the car. They even offered to install the electronics (the processor, or the receiver and dash kit if I go that route) and lay down all wires to the locations of the amps and speakers (and have the custom installer only doing fabrication of the fiberglass mounts) so it'll be covered by warranty against electrical fires (something that thankfully I haven't heard of actually happening, but the dealers were extra careful). The worst responses was a blank face from salesmen who don't understand what I'm trying to do because USB was state of the art to them, followed by a manager who jokingly asked if they can display the car when done (the latter isn't actually bad, I really wouldn't mind lending it for a few days if they'd lend me a service car). Unfortunately, life plans went a different direction :D

 

In the US from my experience Toyota was very friendly with these especially if it's a Scion (followed by Subaru), but that's the US marketing strategy as they try to one-up Honda and Mazda with younger buyers. Won't hurt to research and ask around over there though.

post #6 of 8
Thread Starter 

oh yeah i should point out that cars are about double of what you would pay over in the US and I plan to change cars next year so I'm not as concerned about changing anything drastically. what I'm trying to say is that before when i used my ipod it sounded louder when connected to the car than the Clip zip, it a matter of volume not Sound quality i should have said that first. i just wanted somthing that could produce adequate sound without having to increase the volume knob inside the car, because when i change over from the DAP to the Radio it gets really loud.

 

thanks

post #7 of 8

Try a DAP with a lineout first - like borrow a 30-pin iDevice (even an iPad 2) and hook up a 30-pin to 3.5mm on it and see if it works the way you want. Clip Zip and AK120 both have only amplified headphone outputs, and even if they're amplified, other factors like impedance at the source output, the input on the car, and the voltage of the signal could be the culprit. If it works right, then look into buying an X3 or DX50.

 

That or you just get used to turning the knob back down before you hit the button to switch over to the radio. What I like about integrated systems is not just the look of the dash, but that there's a HUGE knob in the center of it in many cars nowadays - it's a lot like a home audio system. Trade off of course is I either give up a map pocket for a controller for the processor so I can tweak on the fly, or with some models, I hook up the laptop and USB mic, set everything, then finalize the install and leave it as it is.


Edited by ProtegeManiac - 10/4/13 at 1:29am
post #8 of 8
Thread Starter 

ok i try that out and see what happens thanks

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