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Bottlehead Amplifier Discussion / Comparison Thread: Crack, SEX & Mainline - Page 35

post #511 of 834

:popcorn:

post #512 of 834
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoatsArt View Post

Mmmm.....Caps!

Silver/gold/oil no less

 

After reading @mcandmar's various posts here and on the BH forums I was going to go silver/oil like him, but read that the gold brings slightly more warmth to the mids so I couldn't resist!

post #513 of 834

You just had to go one better didn't you :smile: 

 

You may have to redo some of the wiring to make them longer for the attenuator, specifically the wiring from the pot to the stand offs.  Doing so will be much more difficult with the new caps in place so i would advise waiting and doing the attenuator upgrade first.


Edited by mcandmar - 4/7/14 at 7:41pm
post #514 of 834
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcandmar View Post
 

You just had to go one better didn't you :smile: 

 

You may have to redo some of the wiring to make them longer for the attenuator, specifically the wiring from the pot to the stand offs.  Doing so will be much more difficult with the new caps in place so i would advise waiting and doing the attenuator upgrade first.

 

Haha - I figured if I was going to do it, I should go straight for the end point and not be left always wondering...

 

Thanks for the advice about the attenuator - it might be just what I need to know to help me be patient...

 

Speaking of patience, would you recommend burning in the caps prior to installation and if so, how?

post #515 of 834

The Mundorfs weren't too bad in terms of burn in, the Russian teflons however took forever and a day.  Have a search on the BH forum for burn in, Grainger posted info about his setup which i copied using a cheap speaker amp with an iPod shuffle doing its thing.

post #516 of 834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loquah View Post
 

And so it begins...

 

 

I have the following upgrades to do preferrably in the following order, but it all depends on whether I can be patient enough to wait for the attenuator now that the Mundorfs are here:

  1. Upgrade stock volume potentiometer to a Dale stepped attenuator
  2. Upgrade stock output caps to Mundorf MCap Supreme Silver/Gold/Oil
  3. Upgrade stock coupling capacitors to Russian teflons

 

Looking forward to seeing and hearing more about your hot rodding of the sex

post #517 of 834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loquah View Post
 

 

Haha - I figured if I was going to do it, I should go straight for the end point and not be left always wondering...

 

Thanks for the advice about the attenuator - it might be just what I need to know to help me be patient...

 

Speaking of patience, would you recommend burning in the caps prior to installation and if so, how?

My current setup is a S.E.X. with Russian Teflons and ClarityCaps powering HE-500s. It's possible this is the end of my road; it's that good! I'm very interested in your findings as you upgrade step by step, because I built mine from scratch with the upgraded caps, impedance switches, and C4S as I could see layout was a potential challenge.

 

(Aside: Don't do this at home, folks! I got away with it, but probably ended up taking twice the time I would have if I'd done stock -> upgrades -> new caps because that's how the manuals are designed. Lots and lots of planning and cross-referencing which could easily have gone south.)

 

Attached are a couple of pics showing how I arranged these in the case. The Mundorfs are probably a bit larger than the ClarityCaps for the same value, but I think the approach worked very well and should be adaptable.

 

...also, if the stepped attenuator does wonders, I may have to jump for one. Still using the stock pot.

 

 

 


Edited by SilverTrumpet999 - 4/10/14 at 10:27pm
post #518 of 834

I am literally just about to pull the trigger on a pair of HE-500's so your endorsement is music to my ears :L3000:

 

The Mundorfs are slightly larger than those, it was a very tight fit getting them into mine.

post #519 of 834
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcandmar View Post
 

I am literally just about to pull the trigger on a pair of HE-500's so your endorsement is music to my ears :L3000:

 

The Mundorfs are slightly larger than those, it was a very tight fit getting them into mine.

 

Are they the ones listed on the wam? If so I have been very tempted myself.

post #520 of 834

Wam?   Best price i have found is from these guys http://www.razordogaudio.com/

post #521 of 834

Out of interest has anybody tried the LCD-2 Rev 2 with sex or mainline?

post #522 of 834
Thread Starter 
Both. Two of us played around with those combos at a meet last weekend. As to which headphone was better, it's very hard to say because they're quite different. In terms of amps, I think the extra power of the SEX makes it a better choice (ie it sounds fuller / better) despite the Mainline being technically superior.

I can try to supply more specifics if you let me know what you're looking for soundwise, etc.
post #523 of 834

In case anyone wonders what is going on with what appears to be two wires leading to each connector on the Russian Teflon caps in my build pic post above, the reason is simple. The twisted pair is much stiffer and stronger than a single wire alone; one could not hold up those caps but the twisted pair keeps them in place. Thus, no need to get out zipties or run longer leads than necessary to anchor them to the case (also complicating further service). I used leftover standard red/black twisted pair from the S.E.X. build for this purpose. 

 

Only the red leads make an electrical connection to the cap. The black leads wrap around the cap connector to make a physical connection, but they are not stripped; they do not make an electrical connection. However, the other end of the black leads are soldered to ground - mainly to better anchor the assembly, but also potentially to reduce interference on the slightly longer leads required to install said caps.

 

The ClarityCaps came with leads stiff and robust enough to position them in 3D space and stay there, so no such games were required with them.

 

Note that the covers on these Russian Teflon caps are conductive! Makes no sense, but they are. So you need to make sure they aren't wobbling around, or you could have smoke or an accident waiting to happen. Check the connectivity of each cap cover to everything remotely close before you power on the first time...

post #524 of 834

A bit of shrink wrap can help, I shrunk mine rotisserie style over the gas hob

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #525 of 834
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieMcC View Post
 

A bit of shrink wrap can help, I shrunk mine rotisserie style over the gas hob

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Der SEX der teeflons sher flur der hurberder. Bork, bork bork!

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