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Bottlehead Amplifier Discussion / Comparison Thread: Crack, SEX & Mainline - Page 91

post #1351 of 1357

Thanks NightFlight, is it this one ? 

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCTRYGC/ref=s9_hps_bw_g469_i1


Edited by Garbana - 8/21/15 at 7:45am
post #1352 of 1357

Thumbs up for the Cardas Quad here as well your link is correct

post #1353 of 1357

http://www.takefiveaudio.com/mall/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=135&cat=Cardas

 

http://www.partsconnexion.com/solder_cardas.html

 

Your amazon entry looks correct as well. The quad 100g is likely all you'll need. I ordered mine from Take Five, built a couple amps, pinball machine repairs and various smaller projects with quit a lot left. 100 grams at .032 seems to go a long way. 

 

I also recommend a solder sucker if you don't have one. Some people use braid, but I've never gotten that to work right. 


Edited by NightFlight - 8/21/15 at 12:36pm
post #1354 of 1357

Kester is the Toyota of solder - reliable, easy to find, relatively nice to use. Cardas is the Lexus - more expensive, just as reliable and nicer to use.

post #1355 of 1357
Heh, trust Doc to find the right analogy smily_headphones1.gif
post #1356 of 1357

Quick question about tube rolling. During my browsing I saw lots of mentions about "matched tubes." What's the significance of having a matched pair?

post #1357 of 1357
Thread Starter 
My understanding of tube matching is that each tube can have variations in it's maximum output. By matching them you ensure that both channels in your amp have the same level of performance. It's been explained to me once that this is only really relevant at peak outputs when you might be reaching the performance limits of one / both tubes and beginning to get distortion.

Amps like the Mainline have bias controls which essentially allow you to compensate for variations between tubes.

Hopefully I've remembered and explained this correctly. Others please correct me if I'm wrong.
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