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N00b DT770 repair thread

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 

Hello all!

 

I have been lurking on these forums for a while and have always been keen to read about mods and new headphone tech. While pondering to buy Hifiman or Audeze as my next 'big' investment when the wallet allows it, there is a project I am keen on doing first.

 

My DT770 has been laying arround in a cupboard with just one side functioning. When i opened the can with the cable entry I must have pulled the last bit of cheap factory wire to bits.

 

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So I have been reading all of the threads here on re cabling a 770 (seems like a common thing). I have soldered a piezo disk once, and shortened the cable of a DT 133. Thats all the experience I got :P

 

What I am gonna do is go to a hifi store and buy:

 

 

I have a soldering iron, a little helping arm/claw thingy and solder, obviously.

 

Questions:

 

The iron is a all purpose tip, should I buy a smaller tip that does not get as hot for electronic parts?

 

For the cable I was reading about using copper - This is not TRS?

Elsewhere I read about XLR cables... Can I use stereo instrument cables too? Trying to find out more on the subject but I keep ending up on picture galleries and fetish talk :D 

Maybe someone knows a good fit for the DT 770 in terms of the jack chasis?

 

Well I hope my rambling makes enough sense for someone to help me make more sense of all this.

Edit: Located in The Netherlands btw!


Edited by durkk - 9/6/13 at 5:12pm
post #2 of 20

You really need to do something like this one here which is DT880 but he has a link to his DT770 which he did the same thing to.

:beerchug:

post #3 of 20
Thread Starter 

Thanks! Excellent. 



 



Here's the result:



 



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I will be replacing the jack cable soonish, after I read some more on the subject.

 



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post #4 of 20

Nice job!

post #5 of 20
Thread Starter 

Thanks~! 

 

Would I have been able to use XLR with 250ohms btw? Was just wondering. Those 880's of yours look so lovely!

post #6 of 20

Thanks!

Yes you can those are REAN TINY xlr's and these are the ones I used:

http://www.rean-connectors.com/en/products/tiny-xlr-chassis-connectors/rt3mp

 

There is NOT very much room inside, you can not put the locking nut on, you have to use epoxy on the jack.

 

Next time I might use these ones as the nut is on the outside.

http://www.rean-connectors.com/en/products/rt3mpr

 

Also be VERY careful of the drivers in the DTXXX series as the tangs that the headphone cable is soldered to is also connected to the voice coil wires. Those tangs are just pressed into the plastic an will pull out breaking the voice coil wire in the process. Both liquidzoo and myself have to do a resolder of the voice coil wire on one of our drivers. We were lucky.

 

If you do use the TINY xlr's you have to make sure that the hole for it is below the little shelf that the driver rests on, easy to do as the cup plastic is very soft and workable.

post #7 of 20

This is liquidzoo's DT770 Tiny xlr mod.

post #8 of 20
Thread Starter 

Awesome. I like those braided cables. 

 

How is the structural integrity after the XLR placement? noticed any cracks?

post #9 of 20
Thread Starter 

Re the driver casing: I was lucky enough to simply cut the TRS cable where it teared and un-tangle the strings. Then I simply soldered it to the Chassis and with a bit scraping and fiddling I was able to get the Chassis out far enough to screw it tight, with a bolt ring (dont know the name but these fella's http://www.japparts.nl/images/kawaspecial/b_5004.jpg) to cover the gaps next to the chassis, as it is wider originally.

 

Really glad I did not have to completely replace it and fiddle around with an iron next to the driver like that!

post #10 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by durkk View Post
 

Awesome. I like those braided cables. 

 

How is the structural integrity after the XLR placement? noticed any cracks?

None at all as the plastic is quite thick. It is a good plastic as well since you can shave it easy with a knife and it doesn't crack.

post #11 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by durkk View Post

Really glad I did not have to completely replace it and fiddle around with an iron next to the driver like that!

Just remember to be extra careful if you do any mod in the future that requires soldering on the driver tangs.

post #12 of 20
Thread Starter 

Yeah figured as much, thanks tho! One fo the guys in the shop thought it might break or crack. But with the small chipping i had to do it was so minor i cant imagine it doing anything serious. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post
 

Just remember to be extra careful if you do any mod in the future that requires soldering on the driver tangs.

 

Yup will do, thanks


Edited by durkk - 9/7/13 at 4:50pm
post #13 of 20

Hey! Those are my threads :D

post #14 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post
 

Hey! Those are my threads :D

 

Because they are top notch when people are looking to do a removable mod to the DTXXX's!

And that good sir is why I point people your way! :D

:beerchug:

post #15 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post
 

 

Because they are top notch when people are looking to do a removable mod to the DTXXX's!

And that good sir is why I point people your way! :D

:beerchug:

 

Thanks! I appreciate that man.

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