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The Stax Thread III - Page 4

post #46 of 2673

Which Stax 'phones have real leather earpads?  Which are pleather?

 

I think 007- mk1's  are leather, no?  How about older Lambda Pro, Lambda Signature, and the Lambda Nova / Signature  etc...?

post #47 of 2673
Quote:
Originally Posted by milosz View Post

Which Stax 'phones have real leather earpads?  Which are pleather?

 

I think 007- mk1's  are leather, no?  How about older Lambda Pro, Lambda Signature, and the Lambda Nova / Signature  etc...?

 

The brown SR007MKI are synthetic leather. The SR009, SR007MKII, and 404LE/507 are real leather. 

post #48 of 2673

Do you know this for a fact? I am pretty sure my brown 007s mk1 are all lambskin and the 007 mk2 are mostly lambskin with the part that goes under the ring pleather. My 404 limited,507's and 009's also have real leather.

post #49 of 2673

According to Stax USA, the brown pads are synthetic leather and the black pads are real leather, hence the extra $30 for the black pads.

 

https://www.staxusa.com/parts/ear-pads/stax-sr-007-earpad.html

 

My SR007MKI pads seem to be made out of the same synthetic material as my SR404 pads. If you've got a source of brown real leather pads, let us know. I could use a set.

post #50 of 2673

My 007 MK1s are covered with black leather. I have the original paperwork that came with them. Even the first review of them in a leading  UK hi-fi mag says the same,

post #51 of 2673
Quote:Jjinh
@Erwin: Hey, how are the Koss 950s compared to, say, the SR202s?

You're welcome to find out....

post #52 of 2673
Quote:
Originally Posted by duncan1 View Post

My 007 MK1s are covered with black leather. I have the original paperwork that came with them. Even the first review of them in a leading  UK hi-fi mag says the same,

 

Do you have the SR007BL version with the black pads, headband, and cable? I saw one in the for sale forum here and was tempted to pick it up for the real leather pads and headband.

 

Then I saw the Euro sign and put my wallet down.

post #53 of 2673

Steve2151-  You are right . Maybe this was a "European thing" I dont know  for sure . But this has been brought up before  and many arguments ensued as somebody said they were all artificial .Mine dont look or feel artificial. I like them so much that I wont be "upgrading" any time soon.They suite my completely open sound equipment and with my modified Stax 727-11 I have more than enough detail . The 009s were just too much detail on my system.  

post #54 of 2673

Duncan1, your SR007BL was the export model for the US and Europe. I never saw what the price premium was for the SR007BL vs the brown Japanese SR007, but I'd probably expect something in the 25% range like it is for the current Omega 2s.

post #55 of 2673

Thanks for the information-steve2151- Always good to get a decent post.

post #56 of 2673

I want to change the voltage on a 717 and by digging through old threads I came up with this picture and info:

 

 

 

The amp I am getting is missing one of the jumpers as it is set for 240v. (the photo is not the amp obviously)

Any one know what material is used in the jumpers?  Could I get by with a common steel nail cut to size?

post #57 of 2673

Under no circumstances use a nail . These jumpers are hardened steel with a deep  chrome finish . They are made that way for easy fitting and their non-corrosive qualities so that there is no deterioration  of the skin of the metal due to the  air due to oxidation  which would attack the spring clips that hold them and rot them as they are thin.If you cant get any then buy a short length of stainless steel rod and cut it to size.  

post #58 of 2673

Thanks!!..  I have some ss rod on hand as it happens.  Would you suggest I replace all three for continuity's sake or perhaps one of the positions is a little less crucial that it be the original part?

post #59 of 2673

It would not matter greatly in  which ones you chose to put the new SS jumpers[as long as it is the correct position for your mains voltage] . Keep the chromed jumper and just add the rest. . What you are doing is just changing the primary winding internal layout to suite  your particular voltage so there is no real "special position" as the mains current on switch on is equally spread over the Primary windings.. 

post #60 of 2673

Thanks again.  Any idea, off hand, of the o.d. of the jumpers?  

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