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The Stax Thread III - Page 160

post #2386 of 2799

This is very odd as the Lambda Nova Signature is probably the smoothest of all the Lambda range.

Are you sure it had not been tampered with or are confusing it with the Lambda Signature which can be a bit bright and edgy.

If it does not have Signature in red on the ear cups its not and LNS, it would be a LS or a 404 Signature.

The LNS was produced at least a decade before the 323S so were never designed as such as a set.

  

Quote:

Originally Posted by astrostar59 View Post


k

Fair enough. Maybe your upstream gear suit the 323S? My LNS were a bit bright or should I say leaning towards an edgy treble quality which will emphasise
a brighter DAC or source. Possibly they also don't need the extra juice in a 717?

The LNS and 323S were probably designed to work as a set so synergy is the name of the game as you say.
post #2387 of 2799

Pads are available @ audiocubes (and several other shops in the world) : http://www.audiocubes2.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/18/products_id/142?osCsid=0fb79cfa8241f0ab0d34724e6d7f0b98

 

Ali

post #2388 of 2799

I've been doing some comparisons with between my SRM-600 and Stereomour 2A3 + SRD7 combo driving my SR-507.  Both amps are able to give wonderful sound with the 507 and each amp is able to do some things better than the other.  SRM-600 on the whole is clearer more detailed and faster than the Stereomour.  This is most apparent with fast and detailed music sushi as Metal or Electronica.  The SRM 600 is also brighter and more forward sounding with a smaller soundstage.  As for the Stereomour it also manages to be very detailed but in a more sublet way where the SRM 600 pushes all the detail out into the open.  The Steromour is certainly darker, more relaxed, natural, with a larger soundstage.  I really enjoy this amp with acoustic, jazz, classical genres with meshes well with the amps ability.  Its nice to have the ability to use the SRD7 to test out various stereo amplifiers such as the Steremour and SEX amps which I use for my speakers.  At the end of the day the SRM 600 wins out with is abilities but it is very surprising how great my other tube amps work with the SR-507.  

post #2389 of 2799
Might be a dumb question? Has anyone tried connecting the earphone out from a Mac Laptop to a Stax RCA in?
If so, is it a disaster, or does it sound ok.

I am trying to figure out if there is a cheap and portable solution when I am away from home (and with my Laptop with Audirvana+)
and avoid buying a second DAC.
post #2390 of 2799
Quote:
Originally Posted by astrostar59 View Post

Might be a dumb question? Has anyone tried connecting the earphone out from a Mac Laptop to a Stax RCA in?
If so, is it a disaster, or does it sound ok.

I am trying to figure out if there is a cheap and portable solution when I am away from home (and with my Laptop with Audirvana+)
and avoid buying a second DAC.

There are the battery powered stax amps?  Ofc mac->stax amp doesn't sound terrible, though I haven't tried. It's probably just a little 'meh'

post #2391 of 2799
Quote:
Originally Posted by astrostar59 View Post

Might be a dumb question? Has anyone tried connecting the earphone out from a Mac Laptop to a Stax RCA in?
If so, is it a disaster, or does it sound ok.

I am trying to figure out if there is a cheap and portable solution when I am away from home (and with my Laptop with Audirvana+)
and avoid buying a second DAC.

 

Well, the question is difficult to answer on a forum like this. For instance, I can say that in my view point, all DAC's including any modern computer line out are virtually indistinguishable from one-another when loaded with the high impedance of an amplifier input stage. I can also point out that double blind tests have been conducted which back up this claim. 

Of course, at the end of the day, you'll still get a barrage of people saying I'm insane, I don't have good enough gear to hear the difference, I'm not listening right, my ears suck, I don't want to hear a difference, etc... And of course, double blind tests are irrelevant.

 

The prevailing opinion is that indeed DAC's make a huge difference especially with electrostats.

 

So ultimately, you must make your own decision on what tests you want to do to figure out what will sound good, and how you personally choose to define "sounds better".

post #2392 of 2799
Quote:
Originally Posted by dude_500 View Post

 

Well, the question is difficult to answer on a forum like this. For instance, I can say that in my view point, all DAC's including any modern computer line out are virtually indistinguishable from one-another when loaded with the high impedance of an amplifier input stage. I can also point out that double blind tests have been conducted which back up this claim. 

Of course, at the end of the day, you'll still get a barrage of people saying I'm insane, I don't have good enough gear to hear the difference, I'm not listening right, my ears suck, I don't want to hear a difference, etc... And of course, double blind tests are irrelevant.

 

The prevailing opinion is that indeed DAC's make a huge difference especially with electrostats.

 

So ultimately, you must make your own decision on what tests you want to do to figure out what will sound good, and how you personally choose to define "sounds better".

Interesting thoughts and I'm personally leaning in the same direction (sort of) but not yet thoroughly established in this hobby so I can't say much about that. We better not follow such a controversal thought further on this forum :)

post #2393 of 2799
Quote:
Originally Posted by dude_500 View Post

Well, the question is difficult to answer on a forum like this. For instance, I can say that in my view point, all DAC's including any modern computer line out are virtually indistinguishable from one-another when loaded with the high impedance of an amplifier input stage. I can also point out that double blind tests have been conducted which back up this claim. 


Of course, at the end of the day, you'll still get a barrage of people saying I'm insane, I don't have good enough gear to hear the difference, I'm not listening right, my ears suck, I don't want to hear a difference, etc... And of course, double blind tests are irrelevant.

The prevailing opinion is that indeed DAC's make a huge difference especially with electrostats.

So ultimately, you must make your own decision on what tests you want to do to figure out what will sound good, and how you personally choose to define "sounds better".

X2
Wholeheartedly agree.
post #2394 of 2799

in my opinion, even a cheap 20$ Chinese DAC will be better than using a non digital macbook-out.

One of the reasons is the really bad preamp i discovered in all of my macbookpro´s. It´s noisy and kills a lot of dynamic´s.

I tested those chinese dac´s, a friend brought from Honkong some time ago and they sounded not bad, comparing to my Stello-Signature DAC i used at that time.

post #2395 of 2799

Hi jaycalgary
You heard any None Oversampling DACs? I find they sound much better than Delta-Sigma DACs including most higher resolution files.
It might be worth looking at that. My front end changed a lot (for the better) after I abandoned the over sampling hype / Bull.

Let your ears do the talking.....Redbook can sound amazing.

 

I don't have a whole lot of experience with dac's. I started with a W4S dac2 and wondered if dac's were just bs because something in the highs didn't seem nice at all. Next I went to a Nad M51 and still use and enjoy this dac. Was a big step up as soon as I heard it. I would consider trying a no oversampling dac though I heard they can sound even better. I listen through usb to a laptop though.

post #2396 of 2799
Quote:
Originally Posted by dude_500 View Post
 

 

Well, the question is difficult to answer on a forum like this. For instance, I can say that in my view point, all DAC's including any modern computer line out are virtually indistinguishable from one-another when loaded with the high impedance of an amplifier input stage. I can also point out that double blind tests have been conducted which back up this claim. 

Of course, at the end of the day, you'll still get a barrage of people saying I'm insane, I don't have good enough gear to hear the difference, I'm not listening right, my ears suck, I don't want to hear a difference, etc... And of course, double blind tests are irrelevant.

 

The prevailing opinion is that indeed DAC's make a huge difference especially with electrostats.

 

So ultimately, you must make your own decision on what tests you want to do to figure out what will sound good, and how you personally choose to define "sounds better".

I have heard a difference between a Creative XFi card and my current Asus Xonar card on my desktop speakers. I suspect that the Creative XFi drivers didn't EVER really work right under Windows 7/64.  So I think there IS a difference (in some sense) between the DACs in computer sound cards: they have to be working properly to sound good.

 

Also, I've noticed a difference between the Xonar PCI-E  card and the motherboard's built-in embedded D/A sound chipset- the embedded Realtek chipset  has some audible hum  / noise.  I think this is coming from a ground loop, but the Xonar doesn't show it and it is using the same chassis as the motherboards' sound solution so I'm not exactly sure how the loop has been established.  Maybe the issue is just not-quite-as-good power supply decoupling in the analog output stage of the Realtek on-board sound, I dunno.    

 

OK, I know that these AREN'T the kinds of things most people talk about when they talk about DACs sounding better or worse than other DACs... 

 

I have an Audio-GD  "NFB"-series box with an ES9018 in it and it surely sounds a bit brighter than the WM8741- based DACs I've got.  HOWEVER... I fed analog into that Audio-Gd NFB-10es's amp and that sounded a bit bright, too so I think the issue might be with the headphone amp circuit and not the DAC itself.  I've got to do some more testing on this one.

 

DACs DO measure differently- some 44 kHz DACs have a noticeable roll-off in the treble, depends on how their antialias filter is set up. Not sure one could hear this, though.  At least I couldn't-  the rolloff usually starts well above 10 kHz, and being a geezer, I can only hear to about 12~13 kHz or so- a 1.5 dB loss at 20 kHz tapering back to a 0.5 dB loss at 15 kHz  is completely outside the range of my hearing, and this is kind of the worst rolloff I've seen for a stand-alone DAC that made claims to being "high end."

post #2397 of 2799

Thank you Ali-Pasha ,

 

Yes I knew about audiocubes, I was hoping there might be an alternative to the pleather ones (velour?, something that doesn't cause sweaty ears?) - but apparently not.

 

Back on the topic of the SRD7, It arrived this morning :D - but there is a problem.....:eek:

 

Someone had shortened the speaker in cables, so I thought I would open it up and check for any other messing about, as well as any possible clues to whether it might be able to handle 240V (although labelled 100V)

 

On opening I found that 3 resistors on the circuit board are literally snapped in half - in a manner that implies an intentional modification of some sort... here is a pic

 

 

So what do I do now !?! :confused_face_2:

 

I have ordered a 100V step down - so power supply will no longer be an issue - but these apparently cut/snapped resistors have me freaked!

 

Vendor is in Japan, and I am in Australia, so shipping is a killer!

 

The vendor claims that it was working fine as is and that he was not aware of the cut resistors - before I plug in an Earspeaker - I need to know what impact these cut resistors might have, what would happen if I plugged the SRX in, how things would change if I replaced those resistors - and what resistors I should replace them with... etc...

 

Perhaps someone here might even recognise the board and be able to tell me whether in "intact" form it is a multi-voltage version or single voltage - actually any information and educated opinions would be highly valued.

 

Although I am no soldering wizz - I can probably handle replacing those resistors.....

 

help, input, opinions valued!

 

thanks

 

David

 

P.S. here is the unedited picture of the interior of the SRD7:


Edited by dlaloum - 5/19/14 at 5:39am
post #2398 of 2799

The original SRD-7 should be able to handle wall socket 100-240V, works with Zener diodes and resistors. Now perhaps someone modded them to be only good for 100 V, perhaps for some alleged sonic benefits for cutting a locally not needed crap, which you would need now...

 

If you already ordered a transformer, that's your choice, but IMO the item could be considered broken and returned to the seller.

 

Alternatively, you can replace the resistors yourself, measure the ouputs, or bring it to a local TV repair (if such a thing still exists), they can check it.

post #2399 of 2799
Quote:
Originally Posted by milosz View Post
 

I have heard a difference between a Creative XFi card and my current Asus Xonar card on my desktop speakers. I suspect that the Creative XFi drivers didn't EVER really work right under Windows 7/64.  So I think there IS a difference (in some sense) between the DACs in computer sound cards: they have to be working properly to sound good.

 

Also, I've noticed a difference between the Xonar PCI-E  card and the motherboard's built-in embedded D/A sound chipset- the embedded Realtek chipset  has some audible hum  / noise.  I think this is coming from a ground loop, but the Xonar doesn't show it and it is using the same chassis as the motherboards' sound solution so I'm not exactly sure how the loop has been established.  Maybe the issue is just not-quite-as-good power supply decoupling in the analog output stage of the Realtek on-board sound, I dunno.    

 

OK, I know that these AREN'T the kinds of things most people talk about when they talk about DACs sounding better or worse than other DACs... 

 

I have an Audio-GD  "NFB"-series box with an ES9018 in it and it surely sounds a bit brighter than the WM8741- based DACs I've got.  HOWEVER... I fed analog into that Audio-Gd NFB-10es's amp and that sounded a bit bright, too so I think the issue might be with the headphone amp circuit and not the DAC itself.  I've got to do some more testing on this one.

 

DACs DO measure differently- some 44 kHz DACs have a noticeable roll-off in the treble, depends on how their antialias filter is set up. Not sure one could hear this, though.  At least I couldn't-  the rolloff usually starts well above 10 kHz, and being a geezer, I can only hear to about 12~13 kHz or so- a 1.5 dB loss at 20 kHz tapering back to a 0.5 dB loss at 15 kHz  is completely outside the range of my hearing, and this is kind of the worst rolloff I've seen for a stand-alone DAC that made claims to being "high end."

 

That is true, I wasn't addressing blatant noise issues, which comes up disturbingly frequently in computers. My comment only applies to working setups. I get noise out of my laptop if plugged into the power supply and connected to an earthed amplifier. So I just don't use that configuration.

 

It is true that rolloffs measure differently, but the differences are basically always inaudible. These days, oversampling lets the filter pass window move so high that it's basically a non issue.


Forgot to mention, people likely can hear difference between a NOS filterless DAC with a lot of amps since a NOS filterless DAC is a mathematically broken design, and you're inducing all sorts of intermodulation distortion in the amplifier by using a DAC like that.

post #2400 of 2799

The cost and hassle of international shipping makes me pause before sending something back (Shipping out of Australia is remarkably expensive)

Quote:
Originally Posted by zolkis View Post
 

The original SRD-7 should be able to handle wall socket 100-240V, works with Zener diodes and resistors. Now perhaps someone modded them to be only good for 100 V, perhaps for some alleged sonic benefits for cutting a locally not needed crap, which you would need now...

 

If you already ordered a transformer, that's your choice, but IMO the item could be considered broken and returned to the seller.

 

Alternatively, you can replace the resistors yourself, measure the ouputs, or bring it to a local TV repair (if such a thing still exists), they can check it.

 

I am considering doing it myself....

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