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The Stax Thread III - Page 126

post #1876 of 4009

Milos what's your scope/gear that you'll be using to measure your T2 when completed?

post #1877 of 4009

Hi,

 

I'm trying out the Stax 4170 system and can't detect any 'etching' in the mid-range. I'm not sure exactly what an etched mid range is supposed to sound like but the SR-407 headphones are clearly a step change from dynamic headphones. Compared to my previous Sennheiser HD 700 there's no excruciating emphasis of the treble so sibilance is not artificially emphasised. The SR-407 seems to produce a warm sound compared to my old Stax Basic system with no fatiguing treble issues. 

 

However, for financial reasons I may end up buying a SRM-323S and SR-407 instead (after selling my HD 650 and Graham Slee stuff). Is there a very noticeable difference in the sound quality of the SRM-323S compared with the SRM-006TS? I've searched the forum without luck. Due to size of these amplifiers (compared to my tiny Stax Basic system) the SRM-006TS has to sit on top of my PC tower. I know class A valve amplifiers run hot but the SRM-006TS is like a radiator.

 

Thanks

post #1878 of 4009
Quote:
Originally Posted by martyn73 View Post
 

Hi,

 

I'm trying out the Stax 4170 system and can't detect any 'etching' in the mid-range. I'm not sure exactly what an etched mid range is supposed to sound like but the SR-407 headphones are clearly a step change from dynamic headphones. Compared to my previous Sennheiser HD 700 there's no excruciating emphasis of the treble so sibilance is not artificially emphasised. The SR-407 seems to produce a warm sound compared to my old Stax Basic system with no fatiguing treble issues. 

 

However, for financial reasons I may end up buying a SRM-323S and SR-407 instead (after selling my HD 650 and Graham Slee stuff). Is there a very noticeable difference in the sound quality of the SRM-323S compared with the SRM-006TS? I've searched the forum without luck. Due to size of these amplifiers (compared to my tiny Stax Basic system) the SRM-006TS has to sit on top of my PC tower. I know class A valve amplifiers run hot but the SRM-006TS is like a radiator.

 

Thanks

 

I can't speak towards comparing the two amps but I've read a lot from some pretty damned on-top-of-it Stax aficionados and from what I've read, the SRM-323S is considered by many to be one of the best (if not the best, considering the money) Stax amps currently available ... also, one of the most powerful.

 

You could probably expect a slightly more detailed image with the SRM-323S ... I use one currently (with 404LE's and Koss 950's) and love it. Had a SRM-T1 before and the 323S blows it away (for my preferences, anyway) ...


Edited by s1rrah - 3/29/14 at 12:43pm
post #1879 of 4009

Hello all. As you see, a newbie (few posts!) but a long time owner of Stax headphones. I currently own the 20 years old SR-5 (driven with either SRD-6/SB or with the portable unit SRD-X) and the SR-001(the baby Stax).

 

I have been a bit away from Hi-end music gear in the last years partly due to the attraction to mobile devices such as iPod Classic (which I also own). But having discovered the new generation portable players (such as Fiio X3) I am back to being interested in the Stax headphones.

 

Through ebay, I have bought from Japan a SRM-T1S (Japan version, 100v only). I have connected my Fiio X3 to it through the line out and it sounds great.

 

My questions are two:

 

1) I was sourced by the seller a 220V to 100 V converter but the Power is too low, it overheats and disconnects. I have bought a 220V to 110V converter. Works fine with it, and since I have seen that there is a fuse inside the amplifier connected to the main current plug, I assume that I run no risk (otherwise, the fuse would blow out). I understand that having a 100V converter would be better but they are extremely hard to source. So…. what are the risks, if any, I am running by doing this?

 

2) Thinking in replacing the SR-5, does it make sense to buy the 507?

 

Thanks!

post #1880 of 4009
Quote:
Originally Posted by martyn73 View Post
 

Hi,

 

I'm trying out the Stax 4170 system and can't detect any 'etching' in the mid-range. I'm not sure exactly what an etched mid range is supposed to sound like but the SR-407 headphones are clearly a step change from dynamic headphones. Compared to my previous Sennheiser HD 700 there's no excruciating emphasis of the treble so sibilance is not artificially emphasised. The SR-407 seems to produce a warm sound compared to my old Stax Basic system with no fatiguing treble issues. 

 

However, for financial reasons I may end up buying a SRM-323S and SR-407 instead (after selling my HD 650 and Graham Slee stuff). Is there a very noticeable difference in the sound quality of the SRM-323S compared with the SRM-006TS? I've searched the forum without luck. Due to size of these amplifiers (compared to my tiny Stax Basic system) the SRM-006TS has to sit on top of my PC tower. I know class A valve amplifiers run hot but the SRM-006TS is like a radiator.

 

Thanks

My Stax 007t/ii runs fairly cool for a tube amp with no significant heat build-up with 3 inches of clearance on top.

post #1881 of 4009
Quote:
Originally Posted by angeche View Post

 

Through ebay, I have bought from Japan a SRM-T1S (Japan version, 100v only). I have connected my Fiio X3 to it through the line out and it sounds great.

 

My questions are two:

 

1) I was sourced by the seller a 220V to 100 V converter but the Power is too low, it overheats and disconnects. I have bought a 220V to 110V converter. Works fine with it, and since I have seen that there is a fuse inside the amplifier connected to the main current plug, I assume that I run no risk (otherwise, the fuse would blow out). I understand that having a 100V converter would be better but they are extremely hard to source. So…. what are the risks, if any, I am running by doing this?

 

2) Thinking in replacing the SR-5, does it make sense to buy the 507?

 

Thanks!

Did you buy yours from buyjapan from ebay?  A 507 would be a substantial step up from the SR-5 except the mids. The SR-5 is all about voicing and mids.

post #1882 of 4009

Yeah, mids on SR-5 are soooooooo lovely.

When I want to hear voices at their best, I drop my SR-009 and take my SR-5 :p

 

Ali

post #1883 of 4009

You should hear the SR-1* then :D

 

 

 

*When not imbalanced/distorted

post #1884 of 4009
Quote:
Originally Posted by n3rdling View Post

 

*When not imbalanced/distorted

 

A problem indeed. Did anybody here ever find the "New SR-3" fairly laid back sounding? It doesn't seem to have the very forward mids the SR-1 (mine came with a SRD-5 and despite the 150-200vdc variants mine had no problem running at 230vdc bias) and SR-5 exhibit? 

post #1885 of 4009
Did you buy yours from buyjapan from ebay?

Yes, I did
post #1886 of 4009

Brought my DIY BH to the shop to measure tonight:

Slew rate no load: 78v/us

Slew rate with DIY SR007 Clones: 68v/us

 

I was expecting a dramatically more significant loss of slew rate. These numbers mean slew rate is irrelevant with or without headphones, at least for the blue hawaii. Surely also with two headphones. 

 

I also looked at the FFT to try to get a distortion measurement, but I couldn't really get meaningful results due to the noise floor. Since I don't have a spectrum analyzer, and the scope has a noise floor of about -60dB. Also the function generator I had access to seems to have about 0.2% THD. So, I conclude that with or without load my amp is better than 0.2% THD, although given the statistical uncertainty of the measurement I really can't say much. I'll try to get access to a spectrum analyzer sometime, but I don't know if I'll be able to find one for the audio band.

 

 

There's a 2khz tone at 300vp-p. You can certainly see the 2nd and 3rd harmonic, but they were flickering in and out and numerically mean nothing given the scope's behavior at that level.

post #1887 of 4009

Ya, I don't hear any difference when connecting a second headphone to my DIY BH.  In fact, at meets I usually have had 2 headphones connected to it at the same time.  It would be interesting to see the measurements produced by adding a 2nd headphone to amps with a high output C or low slew rate...I think the LL mk1 has something like 150-200 pF output capacitance and the SRM-T1 is probably pretty limited in slew rate.  It would also be interesting to hear some subjective comments on the addition of a second headphone to some of these amps - is there an audible difference, and if so in what way?

post #1888 of 4009
Quote:
Originally Posted by n3rdling View Post
 

Ya, I don't hear any difference when connecting a second headphone to my DIY BH.  In fact, at meets I usually have had 2 headphones connected to it at the same time.  It would be interesting to see the measurements produced by adding a 2nd headphone to amps with a high output C or low slew rate...I think the LL mk1 has something like 150-200 pF output capacitance and the SRM-T1 is probably pretty limited in slew rate.  It would also be interesting to hear some subjective comments on the addition of a second headphone to some of these amps - is there an audible difference, and if so in what way?

 

Hello

 

I actually found, also, a degradation of the sound during a test comparison of my SR-009 and SR-007 (mk2 mod) on my SRM-727 vs combo RKV-WEE.

 

With the SRM 727, when listening combined SR-007 with SR - 009 connected to the second headset jack of the SRM-727, I found this: I quote (translated into English)


" Otherwise, I advise against simultaneous listening of two headphones on the SRM 727: there is a degradation of the sound with in my ear a net loss of presence and relief (depth) of the sound by listening to the 007mk3 when I plug in more the 009 on the second headset jack; the sound of the 007mk3 becomes significantly better (more present and more robust) when the 009 is disconnected from the second outlet of the amplifier. "

 

(See link to original in French; use translator : http://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum/post177525500.html#p177525500 )

 

Secondarily, it seems to me not found this degradation of sound when simultaneously plugging two headphones (SR-009 + SR-007) on my combo RKV - WEE, most powerful combo, which seems immune. No difference in listening with one or two connected headphoness, including by shunting the WEE (1:50) transformers.


Edited by eric65 - 3/30/14 at 1:26am
post #1889 of 4009
Quote:
Originally Posted by angeche View Post

 

1) I was sourced by the seller a 220V to 100 V converter but the Power is too low, it overheats and disconnects. I have bought a 220V to 110V converter. Works fine with it, and since I have seen that there is a fuse inside the amplifier connected to the main current plug, I assume that I run no risk (otherwise, the fuse would blow out). I understand that having a 100V converter would be better but they are extremely hard to source. So…. what are the risks, if any, I am running by doing this?

The T1S has a universal power transformer, just take off the bottom of the amp to find the switch.

post #1890 of 4009
Quote:
Originally Posted by martyn73 View Post
 

Hi,

 

I'm trying out the Stax 4170 system and can't detect any 'etching' in the mid-range. I'm not sure exactly what an etched mid range is supposed to sound like but the SR-407 headphones are clearly a step change from dynamic headphones. Compared to my previous Sennheiser HD 700 there's no excruciating emphasis of the treble so sibilance is not artificially emphasised. The SR-407 seems to produce a warm sound compared to my old Stax Basic system with no fatiguing treble issues. 

 

However, for financial reasons I may end up buying a SRM-323S and SR-407 instead (after selling my HD 650 and Graham Slee stuff). Is there a very noticeable difference in the sound quality of the SRM-323S compared with the SRM-006TS? I've searched the forum without luck. Due to size of these amplifiers (compared to my tiny Stax Basic system) the SRM-006TS has to sit on top of my PC tower. I know class A valve amplifiers run hot but the SRM-006TS is like a radiator.

 

Thanks

 

Can't speak for the 323 but I've also tried this ^ 4170 system and there is absolutely no etch to the sound. I think it sounds fantastic and far better than "high-end" dynamic cans like the HD 700, HD 800, T1 etc. Thinking about purchasing a 4170 system myself as I can't afford an SR-007 system at this time. 

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