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The Stax Thread III - Page 91

post #1351 of 3290
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickif View Post
 

Great review Gavin!

The beauty of this hobby is that sometimes the opinions on a particular product differ dramatically even among experienced players. Although I agree with most of your findings regarding the two amps, my conclusion happens to be exactly the opposite of yours: I found the 8ps is the warmer, more musical one while the LL2 being more neutral(a bit on the cold side maybe), more clinical sounding. How interesting is that!

 

 

Thanks buddy..

 

I think you have highlighted the salient point that opinions can differ immensely. But no problems there whatsoever. If opinions didn't differ there is no need for choices!

 

Can't wait to hear the 009 on your, hopefully, soon to arrive BHSE!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by arnaud View Post
 

 

To be honest, I don't even feel Gavin and I listened to the same product when talking about the LL2! I appreciate the effort but the findings are so far of my impressions that I don't know what to think.

 

Arnaud

 

Arnaud

 

Hiya. It is indeed interesting regarding the LL2..........

 

My good friend, an audiophile like myself, was just at my place to listen to both amps with the 009. He also prefers the LL2. I really don't understand why the LL2 sounded the way it did in Tokyo?!!?! 

post #1352 of 3290
Quote:
Originally Posted by spkrs01 View Post

 

I really don't understand why the LL2 sounded the way it did in Tokyo?!!?! 

 

I never heard from Alex if there really was an issue with the amplifier sent. Maybe 100V/50Hz screwed things up, yet again it's not like what I described was totally new, Peter's (MacedonianHero) and Birgir's (spritzer) findings were along the same lines for an mk1 I recall, at least for the bass quality.

post #1353 of 3290
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnaud View Post
 

 

I never heard from Alex if there really was an issue with the amplifier sent. Maybe 100V/50Hz screwed things up, yet again it's not like what I described was totally new, Peter's (MacedonianHero) and Birgir's (spritzer) findings were along the same lines for an mk1 I recall, at least for the bass quality.

 

I agree with Gavin on the soundstage which I mentioned to you too when we were listening together. And I found the LL2 somewhat more laid back (but too laid back for the 007, but fine for the 009; which I mentioned to Alex). Not certain if I heard the rest of what Gavin had mentioned though.

 

But I have the same suspicion as you about the voltage. I understand a difference of 17V (100V -> 117V component) would impact bass from past discussions with some makers. The problem was that the LL2 we had was mislabeled altogether so we don't know what it was set at.

 

The rest of the differences we had vs Gavin was the DAC used and we were probably more blasé about the cables being used and isolation pads, etc.

post #1354 of 3290
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnaud View Post

To be honest, I don't even feel Gavin and I listened to the same product when talking about the LL2! I appreciate the effort but the findings are so far of my impressions that I don't know what to think.

Arnaud

Hi Arnaud, would you mind sharing with us your impression then?
post #1355 of 3290

There are several different arrangements for changing the voltage on these amps, but you'll need to make a change before you just plug it in.  

 

Looks like you've got the cover off, can you take some internal shots?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2Erly View Post
 

Can someone tell me if this T1S amp can work on US voltage? It lists 100V,117V, 220V, 240V on the rear but under the plug says 240V  can you just plug in the US power cord and it'll work?

 

post #1356 of 3290

Hi, I have a question for Kevin or Spitz (or for everyone that can help me).

I have an SRM-600 LTD and I would try to transform it in a 006Ts.

I think that I have to change the 4+4 plate resistors (with what kind) and to change some contact in the valves sockets and then use two 6CG7.

May someone be more precise so I can proceed in this transformation?

Also: do you think that is a good idea (I have a 507 to drive) or not?

 

Thank You in advance

PP


Edited by Pier Paolo - 1/21/14 at 10:48am
post #1357 of 3290
Quote:
Originally Posted by shipsupt View Post
 

 

 

 

 

I hope its not anything drastic as Im not at all handy with this type of stuff


Edited by 2Erly - 1/21/14 at 12:10pm
post #1358 of 3290
Quote:
Originally Posted by dukeskd View Post
 

The treatments are, in other words, BS. I know from Spritzer that these Lambdas are better sounding than the 404s. However, them reaching the level of SR009 or SR007 is absurd because of the limitations of the Lambda design (driver and housing). Perhaps the cryo treatment gives that added edge?

I believe that the drivers are actually re-tensioned in addition to being cryogenically treated. I agree that they won't reach 00* levels but at the end of the day it still falls to preference.


Edited by NoPants - 1/21/14 at 1:18pm
post #1359 of 3290
The bar at the back behind the trafo with lots combination coloured wires to it is where you adjust the AC voltage.
post #1360 of 3290
Some wires should be resoldered, that's it I suppose
post #1361 of 3290
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidsh View Post

Some wires should be resoldered, that's it I suppose

 

Yes this too.

post #1362 of 3290
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Erly View Post
 

Can someone tell me if this T1S amp can work on US voltage? It lists 100V,117V, 220V, 240V on the rear but under the plug says 240V  can you just plug in the US power cord and it'll work?

 

 

The easiest way to use this in the US is to get a step-up transformer  like  http://www.world-import.com/all-transformers.htm

 

You plug the transformer into the wall; the wall supplies 120 volts AC to the transformer which steps that up to 240 volts AC  which is what the SRM-T1s  wants.

 

The USA has standardized on something close to 120 volts - 112, 117, 122....US ac power is roughly 120 volts give or take.

 

In Europe it is 220 volts to about 240 volts.  In Japan it is 100 volts.

 

You could adjust the wiring in your amp to set it to expect 120 volts AC instead of the 240 volts it is now set up for, but you will have to move some wires and possibly do some soldering;  if you get it wrong you could damage the amp.  If you are not comfortable with this kind of work, give the job to someone who IS comfortable with this kind of work.  A local audio repair shop should be able to do this for you for maybe $25~$50  I would guess.

post #1363 of 3290
The consequences of even attempting to run a 120V amp on 220-240V are fairly obvious, including but not limited to small explosions and forest fires.

But with a 220-240V 50-60Hz amp, what are the risks assuming it could even power on or operate at 120V?
post #1364 of 3290
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3X0 View Post

The consequences of even attempting to run a 120V amp on 220-240V are fairly obvious, including but not limited to small explosions and forest fires.

But with a 220-240V 50-60Hz amp, what are the risks assuming it could even power on or operate at 120V?

 

There are electronics that have a maximum rise time and will be damaged in a brown out. That said, I seriously doubt this amplifier is one of those. If you left it on for any considerable amount of time, the tubes could be damaged by having half filament voltage while operating. You should know fast enough whether or not it is working, though.

 

The odds of it working with half input voltage are effectively zero. If you are sure it is set on 220v, there is no point in trying it at 110v. I'd only consider trying if there is some reason to believe it might automatically configure, which doesn't seem likely if it is marked for a specific voltage.

post #1365 of 3290
Quote:
Originally Posted by dude_500 View Post
 

 

There are electronics that have a maximum rise time and will be damaged in a brown out. That said, I seriously doubt this amplifier is one of those. If you left it on for any considerable amount of time, the tubes could be damaged by having half filament voltage while operating. You should know fast enough whether or not it is working, though.

 

The odds of it working with half input voltage are effectively zero. If you are sure it is set on 220v, there is no point in trying it at 110v. I'd only consider trying if there is some reason to believe it might automatically configure, which doesn't seem likely if it is marked for a specific voltage.

In my case, it is not a SRM-T1S but rather a SRM-323S. The seller advertised it as a 120V USDM amplifier but I see quite clearly now on the back that it is labeled 220-240V 50/60Hz. The internals were not tampered with so I highly doubt it was wired to 120V input.

 

I hadn't noticed any hiccups in performance or operation using it up until I had noticed this (several months). I'll have a bone to pick with the seller for sure.

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