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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread - Page 61

post #901 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah
 

Not sure why you want an asymmetrical cable like a 'J' cable but it doesn't have to be shielded unless you know you'll be using it in an environment that would benefit from shielding.

 

You'll need one conductor for the left and right channels and one for the ground for a total of 3 wires minimum for a TRS setup.

 

You can use different materials. (E.g.) silver for the right and left channels and copper for the ground to save money.

 

Hopefully I understood your questions correctly.

Thanks for your reply.

 

I am going to make a Bowers&Wilkins P5 cable, so it must be asymetrical.

 

Why "three wires minimum"? That can be more?

 

Choice for ground metal have an effect on sound?


Edited by Fingerling - 12/9/13 at 4:08am
post #902 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fingerling View Post
 

Thanks for your reply.

 

I am going to make a Bowers&Wilkins P5 cable, so it must be asymetrical.

 

Why "three wires minimum"? That can be more?

 

Choice for ground metal have an effect on sound?

The P5 has a single entry, so I think some terms are being used differently than normal.  A J cable is typically for a headphone that is dual entry, but one side of the Y split is shorter than the other, most often used in  IEM cables.  I am assuming you are using asymmetrical to indicate that it isn't balanced.

 

The P5 has a ridiculously thin exit from the headphone driver.  You are not going to fit a shielded cable into it.  In all likely hood, 3 thin wires twisted together is the best you will be able to do.  Probably 26awg max.  The only way you have a shield is if you end it prior to entering the cup.

700

This was 28awg silver plated copper in teflon and it barely fit.

 

For the P5s, different metals for the channels are highly, highly unlikely to make an audible difference.

post #903 of 2705

Hi guys, anyone ordered from lunashops.com before? Thanks.

post #904 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiman View Post
 

Hi guys, anyone ordered from lunashops.com before? Thanks.

Yes.  Good selection.  Reasonable quality.  Slow shipping.

post #905 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiman View Post

Hi guys, anyone ordered from lunashops.com before? Thanks.

Yup.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post

Yes.  Good selection.  Reasonable quality.  Slow shipping.

^ This. While shipping was slow, it arrived quite a bit faster than the estimate but YMMV.
post #906 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by PXSS View Post

 
Noooooooooo! frown.gif



Cups are much redder in real life just FYI. lol
What have you done?!
I was taking them off my head when I felt the small cap pop. It didnt seem like it broke but as I set them down, it all came undone. I still have a replacement screw from the first time this happened a couple of years ago. I'm tempted to go with the long screw mod and save the good screws in case I ever want sell them...
post #907 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post

Yes.  Good selection.  Reasonable quality.  Slow shipping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post

Yup.
^ This. While shipping was slow, it arrived quite a bit faster than the estimate but YMMV.

Thanks. Do you know of any where else that ships worldwide?
If not I'll just order from lunashop.
post #908 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiman View Post



Thanks. Do you know of any where else that ships worldwide?
If not I'll just order from lunashop.

 

Sorry if I missed the post, but what are you looking to order? 

 

That could better help me or others (probably others) answer your question. 

post #909 of 2705
Looking for some jacks and rca plugs. Also a good place for wire.
post #910 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiman View Post

Looking for some jacks and rca plugs. Also a good place for wire.

We do stock most DIY parts, although not most of the cheaper items you can get at Lunashops.  We are in the UK.


Edited by Toxic Cables - 12/10/13 at 8:12am

http://www.toxic-cables.co.uk                  PREPARE TO BE INTOXICATED

 

 

Reply
post #911 of 2705
I am making a 3.5mm interlink for my portable amp. I have neutrik jacks already but I need some suggestions for what wire to use and if I should put techflex over it as I see people trying to avoid it by using rope and shoe laces.
post #912 of 2705

OK, thanks again.

 

So, for this connector: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTQ3OFgxNTAw/$%28KGrHqIOKpMFHkYlOtd0BR7OSTBbD!~~60_57.JPG, where the three wires are solder? (I know that it is also a video connector, but it is the only one thin 2.5mm Jack connector that I have found).

 

For 5-10$, which wires do you recommends to me?

 

I want to make a flexible non-tangle cable.

 

Cordially

 

P-S: if someone sales a good P5 cable for 20-30€ shipping include (I am in France), I am interested.


Edited by Fingerling - 12/10/13 at 5:08pm
post #913 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomtortoise View Post

I am making a 3.5mm interlink for my portable amp. I have neutrik jacks already but I need some suggestions for what wire to use and if I should put techflex over it as I see people trying to avoid it by using rope and shoe laces.

Those people aren't using shoelaces or rope, that is paracord. It's a hollow shoe lace looking cord that's more flexible than tech flex. Search on Google for paracord. You can get 550 paracord at Hobby Lobby if you want to see it before you buy.
post #914 of 2705
I know about using paracord, with duct tape and WD-40 you have everything. The thing is I have seen posts where people specifically say to use shoelace or rope for covering wires, I really have no idea why when there are many more better options.
post #915 of 2705

They must use some sort of wizardry I have never heard of to get a wire inside of either of those things.

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