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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread - Page 59

post #871 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zashoomin View Post
 

You are correct that small is signal and large is from ground and yes check continuity with your multimeter.   On the 1/4 connector tip is left, the center sleeve is right and the bottom sleeve is ground  you will have 1 wire for each signal and 2 wires going to ground.   I would use a neutrik plug.  Redco.com has a bunch of different options.  

 

OK, I think i figured it out!   I went with a Neutrik NP3X by the way

 

Thanks a lot!!!  


Edited by Macmuffin - 11/24/13 at 3:19pm
post #872 of 2955

I'd appreciate someone answering this question.

 

Most DIY headphone cable builds I see here at Head-fi use 4 conductors, i.e., two separate wires for L/R channel grounds although the headphone jack from an amp has common ground. I understand it might lower the crosstalk, but as long as conductor resistance is sufficiently low, using a single conductor for ground should not increase crosstalk significantly. Then, why not use a balanced, 2 conductor, shielded mic cable for this purpose, i.e., 2 conductors for L/R + and shielding for common -? Any good reason not to recommend this?


Edited by Jay_WJ - 11/24/13 at 10:10pm
post #873 of 2955
You still need 2 wires per driver (+ and -).
You could technically do a 3 wire cable for single entry headphones but this wouldnt work for dual entry unless you do something wierd at the y split
post #874 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by PXSS View Post

You still need 2 wires per driver (+ and -).
You could technically do a 3 wire cable for single entry headphones but this wouldnt work for dual entry unless you do something wierd at the y split

 

I meant the case for single entry headphones.

post #875 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay_WJ View Post
 

I'd appreciate someone answering this question.

 

Most DIY headphone cable builds I see here at Head-fi use 4 conductors, i.e., two separate wires for L/R channel grounds although the headphone jack from an amp has common ground. I understand it might lower the crosstalk, but as long as conductor resistance is sufficiently low, using a single conductor for ground should not increase crosstalk significantly. Then, why not use a balanced, 2 conductor, shielded mic cable for this purpose, i.e., 2 conductors for L/R + and shielding for common -? Any good reason not to recommend this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by PXSS View Post

You still need 2 wires per driver (+ and -).
You could technically do a 3 wire cable for single entry headphones but this wouldnt work for dual entry unless you do something wierd at the y split
 
So, in the case of single entry headphones, there aren't any issues with using a 3-conductor (one from a shield) cable. Right? I mean as long as the resistance of the shield for grounding is very low to prevent crosstalk.

Edited by Jay_WJ - 11/25/13 at 8:55am
post #876 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay_WJ View Post
 

It certainly isn't the norm or commonly recommended and you certainly would get more crosstalk by doing so.  Whether or not it would be audible or what the threshold you should be looking for is basically unknown.  I don't think you will find many people who own the equipment to properly measure their DIY cable.

 

Any reason you want to go with that geometry instead of more commonly used and recommended ones?

post #877 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post

 

Thanks for the reply. The reason is that I want to make a replacement cable for my Sony MDR-MA900 and it is not easy to find a thin (< 4.0mm dia) star quad cable. I do not want to use paracord, either----I want it simple. The only four conductor cable that I found meets my criteria is Mogami W2929, but I would rather try the following 3 conductor cable:

 

http://www.gepco.com//products/proav_cable/analog_audio/singdual_xband_F.htm

 

This has very low shield resistance. Although not much relevant for low impedance application like headphone cabling, its capacitance is very low, too, for this type of cable. I do not think crosstalk due to common grounding will be any issue with this cable. Plus, the cable seems very flexible, which is a BIG advantage for a headphone cable.


Edited by Jay_WJ - 11/25/13 at 9:27am
post #878 of 2955

I've been wanting to make my own cable for a while and just need some info before I start buying materials. First off, I want a cable that is flexible and sort of "soft" feeling. I've looked at Mogami and Canare cables but still haven't found out which is more flexible for their thin starquad  mic cable. 

 

I'm also going to be getting Switchcraft connectors and need to know the diameters of the cable for the Mogami w2893 and the Canare equivalent, if anyone could help me with that.

 

And any links to good, relatively inexpensive soldering irons?

 

Thanks in advance.

post #879 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by cerealkillr View Post
 

I've been wanting to make my own cable for a while and just need some info before I start buying materials. First off, I want a cable that is flexible and sort of "soft" feeling. I've looked at Mogami and Canare cables but still haven't found out which is more flexible for their thin starquad  mic cable. 

 

I'm also going to be getting Switchcraft connectors and need to know the diameters of the cable for the Mogami w2893 and the Canare equivalent, if anyone could help me with that.

 

And any links to good, relatively inexpensive soldering irons?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Can't really say much about those cables as I haven't used either, but as sourcing a soldering iron, this link should certainly provide you with enough to chew on:

 

http://electronics.mcmelectronics.com/search?p=Q&lbc=mcmelectronics&uid=252327883&ts=custom&w=soldering%20iron&isort=score&method=and&view=list&af=cat2%3asoldering_solderingironspencils%20cat1%3asoldering

 

Note: it may be good to look into a soldering station as it will give you more heat control should you ever need to use low melting temperature solder.

 

Best of luck on your projects!

post #880 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by cerealkillr View Post
 

I've been wanting to make my own cable for a while and just need some info before I start buying materials. First off, I want a cable that is flexible and sort of "soft" feeling. I've looked at Mogami and Canare cables but still haven't found out which is more flexible for their thin starquad  mic cable. 

 

I'm also going to be getting Switchcraft connectors and need to know the diameters of the cable for the Mogami w2893 and the Canare equivalent, if anyone could help me with that.

 

And any links to good, relatively inexpensive soldering irons?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

I'm in the same situation. Both Mogami W2893 and Canare L-4E5C are 4.8 mm (.189 in) thick, which is still too thick to my taste. I am not sure, but the Mogami is likely more flexible. Do your headphones have a single entry or dual?

 

As for the soldering iron/station, here's a website I am looking at:

 

http://www.mpja.com/Solder-Stations/products/480/

 

I used to have a few cheap irons, but those did not last long. So, this time I want to buy higher quality ones.

post #881 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay_WJ View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cerealkillr View Post
 

I've been wanting to make my own cable for a while and just need some info before I start buying materials. First off, I want a cable that is flexible and sort of "soft" feeling. I've looked at Mogami and Canare cables but still haven't found out which is more flexible for their thin starquad  mic cable. 

 

I'm also going to be getting Switchcraft connectors and need to know the diameters of the cable for the Mogami w2893 and the Canare equivalent, if anyone could help me with that.

 

And any links to good, relatively inexpensive soldering irons?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

I'm in the same situation. Both Mogami W2893 and Canare L-4E5C are 4.8 mm (.189 in) thick, which is still too thick to my taste. I am not sure, but the Mogami is likely more flexible. Do your headphones have a single entry or dual?

 

As for the soldering iron/station, here's a website I am looking at:

 

http://www.mpja.com/Solder-Stations/products/480/

 

I used to have a few cheap irons, but those did not last long. So, this time I want to buy higher quality ones.

 

I've gone through a number of soldering stations over the years, but my absolute favorite is my Hakko 936. Simple but always does the job. Alas it's been discontinued and the new model has gone digital - the FX888D is the replacement for the 936 and can be bought online for around $100 when on sale.

 

Get a decent brand like Weller or Hakko and you won't regret it.

 

Dale

post #882 of 2955

My headphones are single-entry.

post #883 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay_WJ View Post
 

 

I'm in the same situation. Both Mogami W2893 and Canare L-4E5C are 4.8 mm (.189 in) thick, which is still too thick to my taste. I am not sure, but the Mogami is likely more flexible. Do your headphones have a single entry or dual?

 

As for the soldering iron/station, here's a website I am looking at:

 

http://www.mpja.com/Solder-Stations/products/480/

 

I used to have a few cheap irons, but those did not last long. So, this time I want to buy higher quality ones.

They're single-entry.

post #884 of 2955

Is there any way to upgrade cables for headphones that do not have detachable cables?

post #885 of 2955
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZokharaFi View Post
 

Is there any way to upgrade cables for headphones that do not have detachable cables?

Open 'em up.

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