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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread - Page 6

post #76 of 2583
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

I didn't like paracord at all.


You dont?! How come?

post #77 of 2583
Extremely hard to put wire into.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben_r_ View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

I didn't like paracord at all.


You dont?! How come?
post #78 of 2583
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

Extremely hard to put wire into.


Youve tried the teflon tape around the end trick? Tons of people do it and some do it quite often. Maybe you just havent learned the right trick?

post #79 of 2583

Also depends on the gauge of the wire you're attempting to put in.  I've found that Mogami 2534 is much harder to thread into Type I Paracord than Mogami 2893 is.

post #80 of 2583

The trick I have found with paracord is trying to make the ends of the wire as smooth as possible. What makes it a pain is the wires catching on the material as you try to thread it through.  So making a cone with the tape and taping all the wires at once works.  Bending the wires over helps.  Taping them to something a bit more smooth and pushing that through works (like a paper clip).   If the wire is bare, you have more than about 2 strands and you try to push it through you are going to have a bad time.  Techflex is easy you just push the wire through no problems.  Also I like the look of it more than paracord sometimes too.  

post #81 of 2583

Hey guys, I am completely new to DIY cables but I want to make a replacement for my AKG K450s as I don't want to pay extortionate amounts on ebay etc for a cheap thing that will break after 2 uses. 

 

Could anyone point me in the direction of a guide and tell me what parts I need? 

 

If I wanted to add inline controls/mic what would I need to do?

 

Thanks in advance!

post #82 of 2583
I didn't try the tape at the end.
post #83 of 2583
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

I didn't try the tape at the end.

 

Even a little electrical tape. A LITTLE, stretched and pulled one and a half times around the tip provides a nice thin,slick coating for the tip  of the cables to get through pretty easy. Then you just have to do the push/pull worm trick. 

 

Once you get it down you can just stick back and watch some TV or listen to some music and worm away until you're done. 

post #84 of 2583

What size of paracord to use the 22 AWG (Canare L-4E5AT) ?

post #85 of 2583
My AKG K240 sextett's need a new cable and I have decided to add a Y split instead of keeping the original one side cable configuration. I have been reading over the DIY posts for recabling and I have assembled a list for the things that I will need. Hopefully I can get suggestions on the parts I chose so I can get stuff ordered. As of right now the only thing I have is the cable which is 10ft of Canare L-4E6S. For the plug I chose a NEUTRIK NP3X-B 1/4". At the Y split I am going to heat shrink the split, then twist a pair of wires to each driver. I am going to heat shrink each pair with 3/32" 2:1 wrap and then cover them with 3/16" nylon multifilament. From the Y-split down, I am going to use paracord. Do I have to cut the outer layer from the Canare cable for the paracord sleeving to fit? All my options seem like a pretty basic set up from what I have been reading but just wanted other people's opinions about what I have chosen to do and use. Also I was wondering if instead of going straight to the 1/4" plug, could I add a mini XLR female and then make a XLR male to 1/4" plug cable. So it's sort of like an Xbox cable where it can disconnect. Just for aesthetics really but if it will damper the sound quality then I won't do it. The plugs for the XLR set up would be Neutrik NC3FX-B and Neutrik NC3MX-B. For the Y split, should I split off the main cable and shrink wrap like I wanted above or would cutting 2 12" pieces from my 10ft cable be better so that the cable is the same thickness from the plug to the cans. What do you guys think?



Plug : Neutrik NP3X-B 1/4" or Switchcraft 35HDNN/Canare F-12 for a 3.5mm

Cable : Canare L-4E6S.

Y split : 3/32" heat shrink after the Y-split then heat shrink the center Y-split with 1/2" heat shrink.

Above the Y split : should I twist two cables and heat shrink then nylon multifilament over or use the 2 12" pieces of the Canare L-4E6S instead and connect them together.

Cable wrap : No more techflex, looking at paracord 550 now. Do I need to strip the cover from my Canare L-4E6S. and slip the paracord sleeve over?

Possible mini-XLR : Neutrik NC3FX-B and Neutrik NC3MX-B. (Male/Female)

Hopefully I made sense on what I want. I am not too sure on the shrink wrap sizes but yea. Let me know guys. Thanks!
post #86 of 2583
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrozenPanda View Post

I'm looking to build a data/charging cable to charge my android phone. Does anybody know where to buy USB A and micro-USB B connectors? Would these work?

microUSB-B

 

USB A

 

Also.. How many wires are needed? is quad cable sufficient? I see that the A connector has 4 points while the micro has 5.. do I need an extra wire for data or something?

Anybody?

post #87 of 2583
T
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrozenPanda View Post

Anybody?
Those would be just fine and a quad cable is enough. The data sheet for that micro b you posted only has 4 contacts
post #88 of 2583

What is the best source for clear low impedance copper wire. I bought some cheap 24G cable  on ebay and my 10ft cable has an impedance of almost 8 ohms..... :O

 

I want something like OCC copper cable that doesnt cost $2/ft. Cause for 3 channels I need like 30ft....

post #89 of 2583
Quote:
Originally Posted by mvrk10256 View Post

What is the best source for clear low impedance copper wire. I bought some cheap 24G cable  on ebay and my 10ft cable has an impedance of almost 8 ohms..... :O

 

I want something like OCC copper cable that doesnt cost $2/ft. Cause for 3 channels I need like 30ft....

Are you sure?? 24AWG copper wire should have a resistance of .257 ohms. Makes me think that I should start checking my own cables...

Ummm, I would suggest buying Mogami W2534 and stripping out the 2 clear conductors for a cheaper alternative. I know there's a site that already sells just the clear conductors but for the life of me I can't remember what it was.

post #90 of 2583
Quote:
Originally Posted by PXSS View Post

Are you sure?? 24AWG copper wire should have a resistance of .257 ohms. Makes me think that I should start checking my own cables...

Ummm, I would suggest buying Mogami W2534 and stripping out the 2 clear conductors for a cheaper alternative. I know there's a site that already sells just the clear conductors but for the life of me I can't remember what it was.

Ya. I measured other cables and they were all around 1 ohm. Which makes sense due to my crappy HF multimeter. But all 3 channels rang in around 8 ohms. Stripping Mogami would be an option but it seems like a pain in the ass. 

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