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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread - Page 42

post #616 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMinor View Post
 

 

I think this Y cable splitter will make it easier to experiment. Any possibility harming my iem's?

 

 

If you have two different signals coming into the same jack I don't think that you will be hearing two songs at once from both cups. That or the signals will overlap and you will get a lot of distortion but either way if you want to do what you are doing separate cable for each cup or shell or whatever I think will work a lot better.  This is meant to be used the other way around as in one source split to two not two to one. 

post #617 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

The problem with solid core is it will break at the solder connection or at the strain relief. Doesn't make a difference how much sheathing / shrinktube you use, there is no flexibility to it. Like others have said for a cable that does not move it's fine. On one that moves it will break long before stranded will.
beerchug.gif

 

I agree with this since you said you will be moving it around I would definately go for stranded.  

post #618 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zashoomin View Post
 

 

I agree with this since you said you will be moving it around I would definately go for stranded.  

 

Maybe I'm not seeing the forest through the trees here, but why is there so many comments against solid core? It's not like I would be bending it in 90° angles constantly. It would be a gentle slope, plus there would be strain relief inside the plug, followed by a couple in. of heatshrink over the plug and wires.

 
:confused:

 

EDIT: Maybe a proper question here would be, has anyone actually made a solid core RCA interconnect that has broken on them from normal usage?


Edited by brunk - 9/21/13 at 1:19pm
post #619 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post

Maybe I'm not seeing the forest through the trees here, but why is there so many comments against solid core? It's not like I would be bending it in 90° angles constantly. It would be a gentle slope, plus there would be strain relief inside the plug, followed by a couple in. of heatshrink over the plug and wires.
 
confused.gif
Sometimes the best experience is the hands on experience. I recommend you build the cable with solid core, if it meets the purpose you built it for then excellent! It might last you longer than I have experienced them lasting. It's all about the enjoyment of the project build.
beerchug.gif
post #620 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post


Sometimes the best experience is the hands on experience. I recommend you build the cable with solid core, if it meets the purpose you built it for then excellent! It might last you longer than I have experienced them lasting. It's all about the enjoyment of the project build.
beerchug.gif

 

Yeah I think I'm going to take the plunge and do it, I just can't see it snapping easily, it's not a "dead soft" silver wire either which i could see snapping.

post #621 of 2235

Well for all my five diy LOD cables I have used all solid cored silver wires (except for one of the LOD's I used the stranded copper wire for ground) of 24awg or 26 awg. For this purpose I won't bend the cables back and forth other than plugging or unplugging them from time to time. So I see no problem with the solid cored wires for this type of application. The key is to have solid soldered joints.

post #622 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMinor View Post
 

Well for all my five diy LOD cables I have used all solid cored silver wires (except for one of the LOD's I used the stranded copper wire for ground) of 24awg or 26 awg. For this purpose I won't bend the cables back and forth other than plugging or unplugging them from time to time. So I see no problem with the solid cored wires for this type of application. The key is to have solid soldered joints.

 

Thanks for the feedback of your experience, i appreciate it.

post #623 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post
 

 

Thanks for the feedback of your experience, i appreciate it.

 

NP. Just give you an idea how stiff the wires are. Once they are bent they will remain in that shape unless you intentionally straighten them or bend them to another shape.

 

post #624 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMinor View Post
 

 

NP. Just give you an idea how stiff the wires are. Once they are bent they will remain in that shape unless you intentionally straighten them or bend them to another shape.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Perfect. Thanks. Awesome cables by the way!

post #625 of 2235

My first diy rca jack is made with cheap jacks  and cheap speaker wires.I did not think that a cheap 18awg speaker wire will sound this good the base and sound stage is nice.

(DOLLAR STORE STUFF TO BE EXACT)


Edited by i luvmusic 2 - 9/21/13 at 6:05pm
post #626 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post
 

I use a mini vise...

 

 

I like that tiny xlr male socket that you put on your DT880.

Can you please tell me the product/part number of that socket and where did you get it?

THANKS.

post #627 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post
 

 

I like that tiny xlr male socket that you put on your DT880.

Can you please tell me the product/part number of that socket and where did you get it?

THANKS.

Thanks!

 

That is a REAN TINY xlr's and these are the ones I used:

http://www.rean-connectors.com/en/products/tiny-xlr-chassis-connectors/rt3mp

 

There is NOT very much room inside, so you can not put the locking nut on, you have to use epoxy on the jack to hold it in place.

 

Next time I think I a going to use these ones as the nut is on the outside, doesn't look as nice but would be easier to install I think.

http://www.rean-connectors.com/en/products/rt3mpr

 

Also be VERY careful of the drivers in the DTXXX series as the tangs that the headphone cable is soldered to is also connected to the voice coil wires. Those tangs are just pressed into the plastic an will pull out breaking the voice coil wire in the process. Both liquidzoo and myself have to do a resolder of the voice coil wire on one of our drivers. We were lucky.

 

If you do use the TINY xlr's you have to make sure that the hole for it is below the little shelf that the driver rests on, easy to do as the cup plastic is very soft and workable.

 

I had a local Industrial Electronics supplier bring them in for me, RAE was who I used.

 

Since your in Canada, electrosonic also carries them if there is an office local to you.

http://www.e-sonic.com/acc/products.aspx?partID=RT3MP&partIDExt=319&command=detail

 

The one with the nut on the outside would probably have to be ordered in for you from REAN through your supplier.

:beerchug: 

 

Edit: I also have a pair of the Switchcraft Tini Q-G's that I paid twice as much for and I don't like them compared to the REAN's.

TB4M http://www.switchcraft.com/productsummary.aspx?Parent=808


Edited by TrollDragon - 9/21/13 at 7:57pm
post #628 of 2235

Just curiosity: How does plasticine works inside a cup? what's the desired effect? I presume to dampen but the word dampening is wildly used and I'm having troubles understanding it: reduce vibration, improve bass response, reduce a particular wavelength? Thanks

post #629 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by squallkiercosa View Post
 

Just curiosity: How does plasticine works inside a cup? what's the desired effect? I presume to dampen but the word dampening is wildly used and I'm having troubles understanding it: reduce vibration, improve bass response, reduce a particular wavelength? Thanks

 

To reduce vibrations mainly.  Or more generally, to absorb energy in general.  This energy can be from soundwaves and or vibrations.  Dampening material can positively or negatively affect the sound in some aspect(s).  It varies.

To me, "improving bass response" =/= dampening, but dampening can affect bass response, and it will vary whether the effect is positive or negative depending on the headphone design.

I think that you also meant "frequencies" not "wavelength".

 

You're welcome.  :p

post #630 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post
 

Next time I think I a going to use these ones as the nut is on the outside, doesn't look as nice but would be easier to install I think.

http://www.rean-connectors.com/en/products/rt3mpr

 

 

Mine's a 3.5mm chassis, and I can't seem to find the link I used in the US :confused:


Edited by cCasper TFG - 9/22/13 at 3:43am
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