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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread - Page 39

post #571 of 2561
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shazb0t View Post

New to this, which company sells the best bang for your buck Litz wire for diy headphone cables?

 

That would probably be magnet wire and you doing the twisting...

post #572 of 2561
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post

That would probably be magnet wire and you doing the twisting...
Any how to posted somewhere? Where do you purchase the magnet wire?
post #573 of 2561
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post
 

Oh yep, it was $10, and I bought 2 sets of these DIY iem connectors http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=3002 for my new Westone 4s modded to 4r.

No, not in the us. They're located in Hong kong.

 

Also, if you think you need to order more items in quantity,  you can submit your request through: http://www.alibaba.com

 

Within 24 hours or so, one of the vendors will get in contact with you (usually from China).  They will provide you with a quote including shipping for the items of inquiry.  I had sent a request in for the Sennheiser connectors (Acrolink FP-650) and the shipping rate was going to be $20.00.  This rate seemed to be basic regardless of quantity.  The connectors were down to about $6.00 per pair when I received a quote for 8 pair.  But, if you have to just get a single pair, Ebay or Lunashops will still be your best bet.

post #574 of 2561

Got a question about recabling headphones...

 

How do you recable headphones single terminated?  As an example, I'm trying to recable an Ultrasone HFI headphone.  I know that each driver cups have a ground and side to terminate into (left & right).

 

But if I were to want these single-ended, how do i do so?

post #575 of 2561
Quote:
Originally Posted by younglee200 View Post
 

Got a question about recabling headphones...

 

How do you recable headphones single terminated?  As an example, I'm trying to recable an Ultrasone HFI headphone.  I know that each driver cups have a ground and side to terminate into (left & right).

 

But if I were to want these single-ended, how do i do so?

 

Ok so there will be a L+, L- and a R+ and R-.  The + will be your signal and your - will be your ground.  So you will have two wires going to ground and one wire for each signal. 

post #576 of 2561
Quote:
Originally Posted by younglee200 View Post
 

Got a question about recabling headphones...

 

How do you recable headphones single terminated?  As an example, I'm trying to recable an Ultrasone HFI headphone.  I know that each driver cups have a ground and side to terminate into (left & right).

 

But if I were to want these single-ended, how do i do so?

 

If it doesn't have a removable single ended cable, you can punch a hole and go dual entry. The original configuration is that one end is longer than the other and it's routed through the headband.

 

In the case of removable cable, K702 for example, it terminates into strands and two stands go through the headband assembly.

post #577 of 2561

Oh okay, I see - that's very very helpful.

 

What is the simplest way I could punch a whole through the headphone?  I don't supposed I could try to use a single hole puncher, could I

post #578 of 2561

a HOLE***, I can't type this morning.

post #579 of 2561
Quote:
Originally Posted by younglee200 View Post
 

Oh okay, I see - that's very very helpful.

 

What is the simplest way I could punch a whole through the headphone?  I don't supposed I could try to use a single hole puncher, could I

 

Dremel rotary tool or it's chinese clones will be your best friend.

post #580 of 2561

You could just use a drill bit to get the hole started with a drill and then use this> http://www.lowes.com/pd_94729-353-952_0__?productId=1114247&Ntt=dremel in the drill to make the hole wider and smooth. That's what I did before I got my Dremel.

post #581 of 2561

These are a great item for enlarging holes as well, it is a must have.

 

 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_20973-281-10231_0__?Ntt=irwin+%231+step+drill&UserSearch=irwin+%231+step+drill&productId=3070245&rpp=32#1+step+drill


Edited by TrollDragon - 9/17/13 at 8:48am
post #582 of 2561

I've found some answers but would like some feedback before I go any further. I've got a pair of Koss Porta Pro's and the cabling is becoming more tough and uncomfortable as well as fraying in the middle. Since they're so easy to take apart, I was thinking it'd be a nice first step into the magical world of cables. I've found a lot of information spread across the Head-fi cosmos but just need some specific answers.

 

To cover what I already know: I am familiar with most musical and basic electronics terminology. I have not done projects that involve soldering before because I've got shaky hands but that is no longer an issue. Aaaannd My warranty is already voidified ;)

 

 

What materials will I need for re cabling? Specific recommendations would be most helpful; basically looking for a build list. 

 

What type of cable wire should I go for and from where? For a first time out should I braid or go a different route?

 

Any soldering tips for tiny joints?

 

 

Just looking to get my foot in the door.

 

Thanks any and all

post #583 of 2561
Quote:
Originally Posted by gweg View Post
 

I've found some answers but would like some feedback before I go any further. I've got a pair of Koss Porta Pro's and the cabling is becoming more tough and uncomfortable as well as fraying in the middle. Since they're so easy to take apart, I was thinking it'd be a nice first step into the magical world of cables. I've found a lot of information spread across the Head-fi cosmos but just need some specific answers.

 

To cover what I already know: I am familiar with most musical and basic electronics terminology. I have not done projects that involve soldering before because I've got shaky hands but that is no longer an issue. Aaaannd My warranty is already voidified ;)

 

 

What materials will I need for re cabling? Specific recommendations would be most helpful; basically looking for a build list. 

 

What type of cable wire should I go for and from where? For a first time out should I braid or go a different route?

 

Any soldering tips for tiny joints?

 

 

Just looking to get my foot in the door.

 

Thanks any and all

 

So most of it comes down to your style preferences. I'll give you a list of some cheaper options. You'll probably want to go cheaper since it's your first build.
  My suggestions. (Click to show)
Length: Depends on you. most people go 4-6 feet depending if you use them as portable. 
 
Conductor wire: Canare. http://www.redco.com/Canare-L-4E6S.html   It's cheap and effective. This particular one has white and blue color jackets for insulation on the individual wires so that could be great for matching your PortaPros if you don't want to sleeve them. At $0.50/foot you can't go wrong. You'll only need $2-3 worth. 
 
Connector plug: Neutrik. Again, cheap and effective. Probably the most commonly used brand for most DIYers. Here
                        There are plenty of other options, but they get more and more expensive. 
 
Y-Split: Buy an extra neutrik plug and use the shell. Cover it in heatshrink. You can see multiple examples of this in the past month on the DIY cable gallery thread. 
 
Heatshrink: Get 3:1 ratio. The most common you find is 2:1 or "50%" meaning it shrinks to half it's size. I do recommend having one of the cheap assorted packs of 2:1 as it comes in quite handy. The 3:1 I usually get 3/8" as it is perfect to slide over Neutrik connectors and still wrap snuggly around the cable coming out. If you can find an assorted pack of that, go for it. 
 
Sleeving: Most use paracord, techflex, nylon multifilament. Paracord is cheap, feels nice and comes in a variety of colors and patterns. All of them have their uses. http://www.supplycaptain.com/ or even off Amazon are good places to pick up paracord. 
 
Solder: Everyone has their type that they like more or believe makes a difference. I believe that a nice shiny, clean joint is much better than all the silver +gold +diamonds +platinum mixed solder in the world. I like Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .031" or CARDAS Quad Eutectic Solder. They are easy to find on Amazon or in smaller quantities on Ebay. Hell, even go to Radioshack and you'll be fine. Since you'll be soldering directly to the contacts, I do recommend a solder that melts at lower temp so you won't be holding the heat to the driver for long. The Cardas seems to work great for me. Just make sure you clean after. 
 
Shipping from most companies can increase your overall cost by a decent amount. I try to find most of what I need from one company if possible. Redco.com, Markertek.com, Parts-express.com, and other places are great options that usually have most of the necessities. I like to buy in larger quantities for future builds so I don't end up paying shipping multiple times. 
 
Take your time and practice first. You buy some extra feet of Canare since it's so cheap and practice stripping the wire, braiding it, and soldering it to something else. Practice really helps technique. 
 
Soldering: Find the proper temperature for your solder and what you'll be doing. Make sure to tin the wire ends before soldering. Don't overheat the drivers by holding too long. If it takes more than a few seconds, you might have to check and readjust your temperature. Some people might suggest doing the tac method where you put some solder on your tip and simply drop that onto the wire/solder point. I don't personally suggest that, you can get a cold joint if you're not careful.  
 
You can also place something metal near the driver contact point to use as a heatsink while soldering. Just make sure you don't end up soldering it to the driver =). 
 
You'll find that it's easier than you imagined. 
 
***Side note: These are just my suggestions. There are many, MANY different ways to do things and different materials that people use. My choices might not be right for you or others, but they work for me. So find what works for you through practice. 

 

post #584 of 2561
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keopele19 View Post
 

 

 

You could also look at some wire like this:

 

http://www.angelfire.com/electronic2/index1/Litz-Wire-Supplier.html

 

Scroll down to Part # 220/44-Litz-10 --- 220/44 Litz Wire Silk Served Per 10 ft. Price $5.25 

 

Never used it, but I've seen it recommended.

 

Anybody ever used anything like this?

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shazb0t View Post

New to this, which company sells the best bang for your buck Litz wire for diy headphone cables?
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post
 

 

That would probably be magnet wire and you doing the twisting...

 

Is this link that Keopele19 posted the type of magnet Litz wire you're talking about?  Is there a specific reason to use the 220/44 Litz?  My understanding is that would be equivalent to ~18awg wire.

post #585 of 2561

I can't seem to find any place online where I can buy two feet of Canare D403-AT cable.

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