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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread - Page 4

post #46 of 2705

Prize not matter :) I want possible the best quality one, which one you will recomended, this Neutrik Rean nys2203p looks very good, but will not match with black 6,3 male Neutrik connector on other side of cable.

 

Thank you everyone for information.


Edited by PeterMac - 8/12/13 at 2:44pm
post #47 of 2705
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben_r_ View Post

But does it come in black?!

 

2 possible solutions:

 

1) Black spray paint, or

 

2) Black duct tape.

 

biggrin.gif

 

Or, a 3rd solution:

 

Actually, Radio Shack sells them in black.  They have a 2-pack for about $4.49.  I've purchased them a few times.  The black outer shell is made of black plastic.  It just screws on once you've soldered your cable connection.  It should easily work with the noted Mogami cable for PeterMac's needs.

 

Here is the one, with the part number:

 


Edited by wje - 8/12/13 at 2:58pm
post #48 of 2705

4th option (though the least practical by far):

 

Take it to a body/specialized metal shop (or possibly trade school) and have it anodized or powder coated.

 

Would definitely retain the black color, but would likely be very costly (unless you get lucky enough that they're running a job of the right color that you can get your parts in on as well).

 

I know people have done this with computer case parts, but I have no idea what the cost or process is.

post #49 of 2705

Can be silver chrome also, maybe will no fit to black male plug, but this plug is behind PC pluged into the music card Xonar ST so it's not visible, more important and pros for me in this Neutrik Rean NYS2203P over NJ3FC6-BAG is size, is a lot of smaller and lighter. I hope in sound quality I do not notice any differences :)

Thanks again all.

 

By the way it's little wired, they have black male 6.3 jack http://www.markertek.com/Connectors-Adapters/Audio-Connectors/1-4in-Phone-Connectors/REAN-a-Brand-of-Neutrik-AG/NYS228BG.xhtml

So should be also female plug in black to match together.

In Poland I can't find it anywhere in shops so I have to buy from eBay :).


Edited by PeterMac - 8/12/13 at 4:53pm
post #50 of 2705
Great job starting this thread wje!
There is going to be some great info here!
post #51 of 2705

This is how will be look :) http://www.slygoosecables.com/Mogami-14-Stereo-Extension.html

my cable Mogami 2534 is 6.0mm diameter but as I see this plug NYS2203P fit it from description here http://www.amazon.co.uk/Neutrik-REAN-NYS2203P-3-pole-inline/dp/B0039E5N60

post #52 of 2705
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterMac View Post

This is how will be look :) http://www.slygoosecables.com/Mogami-14-Stereo-Extension.html

my cable Mogami 2534 is 6.0mm diameter but as I see this plug NYS2203P fit it from description here http://www.amazon.co.uk/Neutrik-REAN-NYS2203P-3-pole-inline/dp/B0039E5N60

 

In order to keep the silver connector mostly black, you could also apply some shrink tube to the exterior and get out the heat gun.  That way, minimal chrome - or bling, would be showing.

post #53 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterMac View Post

I have a question about Neutrik NJ3FC6 plug, maybe someone know is it possible to easy remove very uncomfortable Secure Lock from it, I hate it, always when I want to change replug my headphones almost always I have nail pain.

 

 

this is quite simple to do - remove the back screw lock, remove the screw on the side and the whole assembly slides out - merely remove the parts of the locking mechanism and put it back together.  I like these connectors too but always remove the locking tab. 

 

( not merely for convenience, but there are too many stories of amps being shorted using them. ) 

 

..dB

post #54 of 2705

Here I went ahead and did it real quick for you since it was bugging me too:

 

Unscrew the strain relief and remove the outer shell locking screw from the side of the plug.

 

 

 

Gentle push the locking slide in and pull towards you and the slide and small spring that is behind it will pop out.

 

 

 

Us a small screwdriver or your fingernail to pry/remove the locking bar from the barrel of the connector. You can take the little piece of foam padding out as well.

 

 

 

With it all removed it should look like this. You can put the red locking slide and the small spring back in for looks if you like. I did. But it is not needed.

 

 

Once its reassembled you have a normal non-locking, high quality, black, female 1/4" plug

 

:)

post #55 of 2705

Nice guide with great pictures. I think I might do this to mine as well. The locking has never bugged me, but I could do without it. 

post #56 of 2705

Subbed. I will definately be using this thread sometimewink.gif

post #57 of 2705

Removed gs1000.gif my fingers and nails saved he he, thank you again ben_r for this quide.


Edited by PeterMac - 8/13/13 at 12:04pm
post #58 of 2705

For putting 4 wires into a sleeving, specifically Techflex, 1/4" or 1/2"? Also, what type do you guys recommend?

post #59 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

For putting 4 wires into a sleeving, specifically Techflex, 1/4" or 1/2"? Also, what type do you guys recommend?

1/4", 1/2" is pretty large.  Plus techflex can always get larger but I have yet to see it shrink.  So smaller is safer.

post #60 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zashoomin View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

For putting 4 wires into a sleeving, specifically Techflex, 1/4" or 1/2"? Also, what type do you guys recommend?

1/4", 1/2" is pretty large.  Plus techflex can always get larger but I have yet to see it shrink.  So smaller is safer.

Thanks! Any of the series they have that you recommend?

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