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post #31 of 2314
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

You might find some clear tubing at an auto parts store.  They should have some various diameters of tubing that is clear.  Some of the tubing might be a bit thick but you'll have to see what is available at the store.  Also, consider how you'll transition from the tubing to the connectors - shrink tube?

 

It'll depend on the connectors we end up using. Since he wants two straight mini to mini connectors, it allows me more breathing room at the transition point. I have adhesive heatshrink that is very easy to work with and would offer a good result. I'll likely try and find tubing with a diameter that fits into the tubing so I can heatshrink it to the actual connector inside as well as outside. 

 

One Head-fier asked if I could make him an interconnect. We talked about the style he wants. While I've never done one in the style he's asking, I'm always down to try and find a solution. Think I'm going to check out some vinyl tubing. Hit up Home Depot and maybe the pet store aquarium section for different tubing options. 

My only real concern is flexibility. I just thought I'd ask here first. Maybe someone could save me the few hours of searching, trial and error. 

post #32 of 2314

Okay, I see guidance so that I don't pull all of my hair out..

 

I am using Mogami 2534. I have it stripped down to the 4 wires. I am trying to sleeve each individual wire with type 1 paracord. What is the easiest way to do this? I accomplished sleeving one wire by inching the bare wire through. It took me about 2 hours to do 10 feet. Am I supposed to cover the end with tape? Heatshrink? Do I tie the wire to the white core of the paracord and just pull it through? Please enlighten me on the easiest way to finish this project.

 

Thanks :)

post #33 of 2314

Ok first of all  NOW ITS CORRECT...i think.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gambit300 View Post

Okay, I see guidance so that I don't pull all of my hair out..

 

I am using Mogami 2534. I have it stripped down to the 4 wires. I am trying to sleeve each individual wire with type 1 paracord. What is the easiest way to do this? I accomplished sleeving one wire by inching the bare wire through. It took me about 2 hours to do 10 feet. Am I supposed to cover the end with tape? Heatshrink? Do I tie the wire to the white core of the paracord and just pull it through? Please enlighten me on the easiest way to finish this project.

 

Thanks :)

 

 

Anyway to answer this,  I tape a small paper clip to one end and for me it makes it a million times easier to push through.  Otherwise just got to take your time with it.

post #34 of 2314
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gambit300 View Post

Okay, I see guidance so that I don't pull all of my hair out..

 

I am using Mogami 2534. I have it stripped down to the 4 wires. I am trying to sleeve each individual wire with type 1 paracord. What is the easiest way to do this? I accomplished sleeving one wire by inching the bare wire through. It took me about 2 hours to do 10 feet. Am I supposed to cover the end with tape? Heatshrink? Do I tie the wire to the white core of the paracord and just pull it through? Please enlighten me on the easiest way to finish this project.

 

Thanks :)

 

Another member posted the suggestion a few months back to use the white Teflon thread seal tape. Wrap a few layers around the end of your wires and it should not hang up because the loose wires keep catching on the paracord.

 

Though, I do like the paper clip option / idea.  I'll have to give that a try, too, and see how it compares to my other way for threading the cable.

post #35 of 2314

I usually just put a little bit of electric tape on the end or heatshrink works. Just try and make it as thin as possible so it goes in easier. After you get the rhythm it isn't so bad, but I'll have to try out those others as well. Try watching a movie while you do it. 

 

The "tying and pulling through" method I also thought about but haven't got around to trying it. I just see it getting stuck and sliding off at some point. Even if you tried to hold it on with tape or heatshrink. You never know.

post #36 of 2314
I really like the paper clip idea. I'll have to give it a try. It seems like heat shrinking the paper clip and tieing it to the core and pulling it has potential... or may fail horribly. If that doesn't work, I'll just try one of the yall ideas and put on netflix.

Thanks
post #37 of 2314

To go along with the XLR diagrams, AKG seems to be really fond of doing non-standard wiring for their cans.  Their mini-XLRs are wired:

 

Pin 1 - Ground

Pin 2 - Ring/Right

Pin 3 - Tip/Left

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/55290/wiring-help-for-diy-akg-k271-headphone-cable#post_630685

 

Based on searches I've done, "standard" wiring for a 3-pin XLR would be:

 

Pin 1 - Ground

Pin 2 - Tip/Left

Pin 3 - Ring/Right

 

That bit of info might help someone out when making a cable for an AKG headphone.

 

Now that that's out of the way:

 

How are people getting the custom headphone splits to stay put on the cables?  I'm talking about the y-splits using wood beads or housings for other connectors specifically.


Edited by liquidzoo - 8/12/13 at 8:05am
post #38 of 2314
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post

 

It'll depend on the connectors we end up using. Since he wants two straight mini to mini connectors, it allows me more breathing room at the transition point. I have adhesive heatshrink that is very easy to work with and would offer a good result. I'll likely try and find tubing with a diameter that fits into the tubing so I can heatshrink it to the actual connector inside as well as outside. 

 

One Head-fier asked if I could make him an interconnect. We talked about the style he wants. While I've never done one in the style he's asking, I'm always down to try and find a solution. Think I'm going to check out some vinyl tubing. Hit up Home Depot and maybe the pet store aquarium section for different tubing options. 

My only real concern is flexibility. I just thought I'd ask here first. Maybe someone could save me the few hours of searching, trial and error. 

You do know there's clear techflex right? 

Wirecare has all types of techflex sleeving and tubing.

http://www.wirecare.com/

 

Another great place for sleeving and heatshrink is partsconnexion.

I'm sure you can find what you're looking for at either place.

http://www.partsconnexion.com/

 

I've worked with both clear Teflon and PET and they're both great depending on which look you like best, Teflon is clear tubing while PET is clear braiding

 

This guy made a beautiful cable a few years ago with clear techflex, check it out:

http://www.head-fi.org/t/71148/diy-cable-gallery/7065#post_7654175

post #39 of 2314

I have a question about Neutrik NJ3FC6 plug, maybe someone know is it possible to easy remove very uncomfortable Secure Lock from it, I hate it, always when I want to change replug my headphones almost always I have nail pain.

 

post #40 of 2314
Quote:
Originally Posted by PXSS View Post

You do know there's clear techflex right? 

Wirecare has all types of techflex sleeving and tubing.

http://www.wirecare.com/

 

Another great place for sleeving and heatshrink is partsconnexion.

I'm sure you can find what you're looking for at either place.

http://www.partsconnexion.com/

 

I've worked with both clear Teflon and PET and they're both great depending on which look you like best, Teflon is clear tubing while PET is clear braiding

 

This guy made a beautiful cable a few years ago with clear techflex, check it out:

http://www.head-fi.org/t/71148/diy-cable-gallery/7065#post_7654175

 

Thanks for the ideas. I order from both places regularly. I'm not a super fan of Techflex, but I'll use it occasionally. I've mostly been looking at Teflon tubing as I've used it once before for a different purpose. The problem is that the guy I'm making it for is thinking in terms of thickness for appearance while I'm thinking in terms of flexibility for functionality.

 

I'll probably try them both just to see how it comes out. Thanks again.

 

That cable you linked to was interesting. It's the exact opposite of my cabling making "style" and dogma in terms of choice of materials; Except for the Viablue t6s 3.5mm he chose. 

It's pretty cool to see what others put out. 

post #41 of 2314
Thread Starter 

PeterMac,

 

Consider the following as a substitute if you don't want a locking female TRS connector for a headphone cable.  It is also made by Rean / Neutrik and doesn't have the locking option.

 

post #42 of 2314

There's also this one, though it's twice the cost:

 

http://www.markertek.com/Connectors-Adapters/Audio-Connectors/1-4in-Phone-Connectors/Switchcraft-Corporation/121.xhtml

 

(you'll want the 131 for 3 conductor)

post #43 of 2314

Wow, thank you very much wje for fasy answer, It's almost perfect that's what I want, I will try only find it in black, maybe you know is will be compatible with Mogami 2534 cable ?

post #44 of 2314
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

PeterMac,

 

Consider the following as a substitute if you don't want a locking female TRS connector for a headphone cable.  It is also made by Rean / Neutrik and doesn't have the locking option.

 


But does it come in black?!

post #45 of 2314
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterMac View Post

Wow, thank you very much wje for fasy answer, It's almost perfect that's what I want, I will try only find it in black, maybe you know is will be compatible with Mogami 2534 cable ?

Undoubtedly.

 

There's also this one that's cheap:

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=090-323

 

It's the same basic one that you can find at Radio Shack, though.  Not the best looking.

 

Or

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=090-313

 

Silver only (probably)

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