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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread - Page 143

post #2131 of 2561
Quote:
Originally Posted by tehsprayer View Post
 

This is very confusing for me to understand. So the blue dragon cable is not compatible? I think the stock cable for the ADs is the quad star canare

The conductor itself (quar star, etc.) doesn't matter. I just checked, and the Alpha Dogs appear to use a custom plug at the end, you can buy them off the site though. I just meant, that since on each plug there are four pins, and they are paired together, you could just run another piece of wire between each pair, and then you could run only one back to the main plug. Heck, you don't even have to do that if you don't want, the cans will still get the signal. You can order a pre-built blue dragon cable with Alpha Dog plugs off the Moon Audio site.

post #2132 of 2561
Quote:
Originally Posted by jodgey4 View Post
 

The conductor itself (quar star, etc.) doesn't matter. I just checked, and the Alpha Dogs appear to use a custom plug at the end, you can buy them off the site though. I just meant, that since on each plug there are four pins, and they are paired together, you could just run another piece of wire between each pair, and then you could run only one back to the main plug. Heck, you don't even have to do that if you don't want, the cans will still get the signal. You can order a pre-built blue dragon cable with Alpha Dog plugs off the Moon Audio site.

I'm trying to learn DIY because it is only $60 for 5ft blue dragon plus $15 for the 2 custom plugs and like another $7 for 1/4 jack. Like $80 when the blue dragon cable prebuilt for the Alpha Dogs is +/-$200 depending on plug options.

post #2133 of 2561
Quote:
Originally Posted by tehsprayer View Post

This is very confusing for me to understand. So the blue dragon cable is not compatible? I think the stock cable for the ADs is the quad star canare

The blue dragon IS compatible. The AD connectors each have 4 pins. Like Jodgey4 said, you'll need to connect the pins that are duplicate on each connector. So you can see in the post how each connector has two grounds and two signal pins. You can run a small wire between the dulpicates.
The idea is that you end up with only needing two wires coming from each connector rather than 4 (one for each available pin).
Edited by Kamakahah - 6/27/14 at 6:43pm
post #2134 of 2561
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post


The blue dragon IS compatible. The AD connectors each have 4 pins. Like Jodgey4 said, you'll need to connect the pins that are duplicate on each connector. So you can see in the post how each connector has two grounds and two signal pins. You can run a small wire between the dulpicates.
The idea is that you end up with only needing two wires coming from each connector rather than 4 (one for each available pin).

Is there a cable that is similar to the blue dragons but cheaper? Something I can experiment on and so I know what to do?

 

Does this also involve soldering?

post #2135 of 2561
Quote:
Originally Posted by tehsprayer View Post

Is there a cable that is similar to the blue dragons but cheaper? Something I can experiment on and so I know what to do?

Does this also involve soldering?
1. Pick up some Canare L-4E6S or L-4E5C (smaller). The first is what the stock AD cable is made from. Alternatively, you can pick up any in this link:
http://www.redco.com/Bulk-Quad-Microphone-Cable/
Mogami is often used. It is almost identical to the Canare but has a twisted copper shielding that isn't tinned. The Canare is the best bang for your buck. You can get most of these off eBay if you want small quantities.

Yes, it does involve soldering.
You'll need wire strippers that can handle 24-30awg. Some "flush cuts" are very useful. Also, buying a "helping hands" to hold the wire during soldering is practically required unless you have a second person to help. Needle nose pliers also come in handy as well as a razor blade of your choice for cutting back the outer PVC of the cable to reveal the wires inside.

Definitely practice soldering before you do it. Plenty of great tutorials for soldering techniques on YouTube.
You can also pick up some cheap Neutrik 3.5mm stereo plugs or practice soldering the wire to.
Edited by Kamakahah - 6/27/14 at 7:19pm
post #2136 of 2561

Hi guys, if you want to braid each line of 4 balanced lines like this what size of multi-filament sleeve would you use ?

I like the big look of this cable.....superb !

Is there any ebay listing with a cotton soft sleeving you could suggest, or is it better to keep it nylon for durability.....?

 

 

post #2137 of 2561
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lohb View Post
 

Hi guys, if you want to braid each line of 4 balanced lines like this what size of multi-filament sleeve would you use ?

I like the big look of this cable.....superb !

Is there any ebay listing with a cotton soft sleeving you could suggest, or is it better to keep it nylon for durability.....?

 

 

 

Search for "paracord" on eBay.

post #2138 of 2561

what is the deal with only soldering the spiral copper shield on one side of the cable?  it prevents ground loop hum?  How do you keep track of which side it's attached on and then do you plug that into the dac or the amp side?  if it was for instance rca or something

post #2139 of 2561

For RCA cables you should be using a coaxial cable which means you'll connect the center conductor to the pin and the shield to the sleeve on both sides.

 

Hope that helps.

post #2140 of 2561

Thanks that does help.  The people I saw connecting the spiral shield to only one side and saying to plug that side into source were using star quad.  I think I found the answer:

 

for star quad:  These cables have the signal conductor to the center pin, the ground part of the signal to the outer conductor and what is being called the shield, many times called a drain, connected to the outer conductor only on one 

end to allow the interference this shield/drain collects to leave the equipment in an orderly manner.

On most cables there is only the center conductor and the ground conductor which is 'shielding' the center conductor. On these cables there is the center conductor, the ground conductor and the shield/drain.

 

found the history behind it on audiokarma:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
 02-01-13: Nsgarch
You are referring to a "floating shield" (one end 'floats' -- is not connected.) This is exactly to PREVENT any curent flow, which would result in hum and RFI being mixed with the audio signal (and thus winding up in your speakers!)

Having the shield connected at one end only does not prevent intercepted hum and RFI from draining to ground at the connected end.

In the old days ;~) single ended interconnects contained only one (center) conductor (+) and the shield carried the (-) signal, so it had to be connected at both ends. Then Bruce Brisson (owner of MIT cables) invented the "shotgun" single-ended interconnect while working for MonsterCable, which is what put MonsterCable on the map! It is called "shotgun" because it contains TWO signal conductors (double-barreled shotgun ;~) surrounded by a shield -- but since the shield no longer has to carry the audio signal, it can be 'grounded' at just one end, and can do its shielding job even more effectively.

Mr. Brisson provided these shotgun cables with ARROWS, which point to the end of the cable where the shield is connected to ground (no, the arrows have NOTHING TO DO WITH SIGNAL FLOW!) He did this specifically so that all interconnects could be installed with the grounded end of their shields connected to the preamp (yes, EVEN THE ONES BETWEEN THE PREAMP AND THE AMP!) That is because such a configuration is what's called 'Star Grounding' -- with the preamp at the center of the 'star'.

Star Grounding provides the quietest system; and in order to prevent ground loops, the preamp should be the ONLY component actually grounded to the wall. In the old days ;~) we generally put 'cheater plugs' on the (three prong) power cords of all other equipment, to prevent additional grounding points (which will always produce ground loops.)

Unfortunately, installing 'cheater plugs' can produce a, shock hazard if you are working on your system and remove the interconnects (and thus the ground connection) from a piece of equipment that has a cheater plug on it (for example: if you were adjusting the bias on a tube amp, which requires removing the input interconnects ;~) So be careful! Much of today's equipment (especially amplifiers) have switches on the back that allow you to 'float' (disconnect) that piece of equipment's audio circuits from ground, and thus eleminating the need for cheater plugs (the equipment's chassis is still grounded) and preventing you from accidentally electrocuting yourself!

Edited by uncola - 6/28/14 at 10:39am
post #2141 of 2561
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lohb View Post
 

Hi guys, if you want to braid each line of 4 balanced lines like this what size of multi-filament sleeve would you use ?

I like the big look of this cable.....superb !

Is there any ebay listing with a cotton soft sleeving you could suggest, or is it better to keep it nylon for durability.....?

 

Although I use paracord instead of Multi filament sleeving to do this, with a 26 AWG wire type III paracord (550 LB, diameter 10/64") is way too bulky but it will work, type 1 paracord (microcord, diameter 1/20") can work but its absolutely miserable and near impossible to thread the wire through. Type II paracord would be ideal but hasn't really been used since the 80's so its near impossible to find. Lucky there is some people on ebay selling 275 lb and 325 lb paracord with a diameter of 7/64" which will perfect.

 

I've never used Multi filament sleeving, but according Techflex's website, the Nylon Multifilament's smallest size is 1/8" (8/64") making it only slightly larger than 275/325 paracord but smaller than Type III 550, so I'd go with that. 

post #2142 of 2561
Quote:
Originally Posted by retrodisease View Post
 

 

Although I use paracord instead of Multi filament sleeving to do this, with a 26 AWG wire type III paracord (550 LB, diameter 10/64") is way too bulky but it will work, type 1 paracord (microcord, diameter 1/20") can work but its absolutely miserable and near impossible to thread the wire through. Type II paracord would be ideal but hasn't really been used since the 80's so its near impossible to find. Lucky there is some people on ebay selling 275 lb and 325 lb paracord with a diameter of 7/64" which will perfect.

 

I've never used Multi filament sleeving, but according Techflex's website, the Nylon Multifilament's smallest size is 1/8" (8/64") making it only slightly larger than 275/325 paracord but smaller than Type III 550, so I'd go with that. 


Bulky/chunky was the idea after seeing some chunky braiding.

Got this 550 paracord

 

I'd only be doing it from the KOBICONN IRIS connector up to the y-split...after that just clear cover cryo copper directly terminated to the cans.

post #2143 of 2561

Ok here's a shot in the dark....

 

I have a Single Ended Silver Poison Frank made for my Sennheiser IE8's.

He's now sending me a Balanced Viper to replace it, So I have a spare Silver poison!

 

Heres my problem..

 

I have a pair of Beyerdynamic T50p Teslas that were given to me as faulty/not working.

 

After a rather clumsy fumble around with the original cable and then a spare Switchcraft 3.5 I had laying around, I've figured its the Jack.

 

Anyway, Its still not sounding fantastic and I know its down to my temporary measures...

 

So, Im thinking I want to use the Silver Poison I already have to replace the existing cable.

Ill leave the Viablue 3.5 on one end, But when I disconnect the IE8 connectors, How do I know which wire is positive etc ( With it all the same colour )???...

 

I have a multi meter but haven't got a clue how to use one!

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated folks, Thank you in advance!! :)

 

Heres the Multi Meter...

 

 

 

 

post #2144 of 2561
post #2145 of 2561
Around 5:30 right before 6 o'clock. 9th option going Clockwise. That's the continuity test option. Touch the ground portion of the jack and then touch either pin on the IEM cable. The one that beeps is ground. Repeat for other side.
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