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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread - Page 139

post #2071 of 2311
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

How heavy can a plug be?
I use a Grado 1/8 to 1/4 mini adapter cable now so the plug couldn't be much heavier than that?

 

It's definitely more than twice as heavy. The whole armature is steel, the connector alone weighs more than one of my Grado SR325i's cups. It's pretty annoying.

post #2072 of 2311
Cool!
Ima have to get me a few of those.

Steal my headphones will ya... Clang... Thud! smily_headphones1.gif
post #2073 of 2311

hey guys. i have a sennheiser hd 518. i modded it to have a standart 3.5mm female plug at left cup. i had to sand a lot both inside the cup and the connector, in order to fit it inside the cup. so the process made it fragile. after couple of weeks, it broke down :( it is fine at look but audio got weird. so i want to mod again but this time, i want to make a fixed cable now, but i have some questions.

 

should i solder cable directly to driver or would it fine if just fix the tip of replacing cable with the drivers cable? i have a solid method for this: hot glue+heat shrink tube. i would like to go with second option because it is safer. i cant afford to burn drivers while soldering :D

 

i have 24 awg silicon cable that used in rc planes and stuff. can i use this? it is pretty soft so thats an advantage but i am afraid of microfonic effect. anyone can inform me about this?

 

how should i braid it? if possible i want to use it flat 3 lane as it would be tangling free, but dont know how to do that. need advices about this.

 

any advice is welcome

post #2074 of 2311

Anyone seen the Oyaide clone right-angle plugs turning up on ebay ?

5 for the price of 1 Oyaide, but QC/materials wildcard.

They have right angle shape of Oyaide 3.5" body and the screw on barrel of a straight Oyaide 3.5"

Would be nice to make 2 interconnect cables,an IEM plug end and not hit $125 just for the 5x original 3.5" plugs....


Edited by Lohb - 6/7/14 at 8:32pm
post #2075 of 2311

Hi there, long-time lurker, first-time poster.

 

I've done 1/4 guitar cables before, but this is my first rodeo for any interconnects. I bought some Mogami cable and Pailiccs 3.5mm plugs due to what I saw on the gallery. I braided the cable and wrapped it in paracord, but it's been sitting a few weeks because I'm not exactly sure how to solder the plug on.

 

I've searched and found a few posts showing how to show other Pailiccs plugs, but not this exact one. Does anyone have a picture on the inside of theirs that they could share or more info on how to solder this funky plug?

 

I've attached a link to one I have, I can't embed for some reason: 

 

http://i.imgur.com/fAQkQQw.jpg

 

I've read the following threads:

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/586612/need-soldering-tips-on-pailiccs-3-5mm-connector

http://www.head-fi.org/t/410135/ultimate-diy-the-3-5mm-1-8-mini-jack-plug-collection-thread/105

 

Any help would be appreciated!

post #2076 of 2311
Quote:
Originally Posted by valespring View Post
 

Hi there, long-time lurker, first-time poster.

 

I've done 1/4 guitar cables before, but this is my first rodeo for any interconnects. I bought some Mogami cable and Pailiccs 3.5mm plugs due to what I saw on the gallery. I braided the cable and wrapped it in paracord, but it's been sitting a few weeks because I'm not exactly sure how to solder the plug on.

 

I've searched and found a few posts showing how to show other Pailiccs plugs, but not this exact one. Does anyone have a picture on the inside of theirs that they could share or more info on how to solder this funky plug?

 

The tip is the left signal, the next is the right signal, and the fat spot before the threading is where you solder the ground. 

post #2077 of 2311

Buy a multimeter! It would take you 10 seconds to check every point to see which is which.

post #2078 of 2311
Pick up a cheap multimeter from somewhere like Harbor Freight for about $4. They even offer them for free with coupons occasionally. It'll serve the purpose of checking those connections. Not super accurate for readings and the build quality is mediocre, but it'll get the job done.
post #2079 of 2311

I went to fix a broken connector on my Audeze cable, and I mirrored where the jumpers go across. DOH. Audeze ships a User's Manual that has the diagram for all the wiring... I just assumed it was looking from the back, not the front. No wonder the pin numbers didn't match the picture... I can't believe what I did. Anyways, measure twice, cut once - except read once, solder once!

 

EDIT:: All corrected. Except now, it's very hard for my to depress the pin all the way to get the connector off. Uggh. I suck at this. Good thing I'm making new cables soon, I think they'll go much smoother.


Edited by jodgey4 - 6/10/14 at 4:10pm
post #2080 of 2311

Hi guys!

 

I built a new headphonecable for my HD650 the otherday, all went well (I thought). I used Toxic Cables Viper wire, very easy to work with.

When I tested the cable it sounded small and just lame. No space, no air, like a recording in a small room. Tested with Rostropovich Cello concerts which usually sounds very good.

 

So I measured the Ohms on my stock cable, they gave me a zero reading on the big ground pin and no reading on the small positive pin.

 

So I measured my diy cable (using Cardas HPCS connectors) and I got 0 on the ground but also a reading on the small positive....?! Weird. I removed the heatskrink and resoldered the wires on the left side connector and plugged it into my Crack again. No sound, just dead.

 

I haven't really changed anything, except for the resolder. What should I do?

All help is most appreciated.

post #2081 of 2311
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lugnegaard View Post
 

Hi guys!

 

I built a new headphonecable for my HD650 the otherday, all went well (I thought). I used Toxic Cables Viper wire, very easy to work with.

When I tested the cable it sounded small and just lame. No space, no air, like a recording in a small room. Tested with Rostropovich Cello concerts which usually sounds very good.

 

So I measured the Ohms on my stock cable, they gave me a zero reading on the big ground pin and no reading on the small positive pin.

 

So I measured my diy cable (using Cardas HPCS connectors) and I got 0 on the ground but also a reading on the small positive....?! Weird. I removed the heatskrink and resoldered the wires on the left side connector and plugged it into my Crack again. No sound, just dead.

 

I haven't really changed anything, except for the resolder. What should I do?

All help is most appreciated.

 

It would help to know how you soldered (which wire where). Most likely the cable is shorting out.

post #2082 of 2311
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lugnegaard View Post
 

Hi guys!

 

I built a new headphonecable for my HD650 the otherday, all went well (I thought). I used Toxic Cables Viper wire, very easy to work with.

When I tested the cable it sounded small and just lame. No space, no air, like a recording in a small room. Tested with Rostropovich Cello concerts which usually sounds very good.

 

So I measured the Ohms on my stock cable, they gave me a zero reading on the big ground pin and no reading on the small positive pin.

 

So I measured my diy cable (using Cardas HPCS connectors) and I got 0 on the ground but also a reading on the small positive....?! Weird. I removed the heatskrink and resoldered the wires on the left side connector and plugged it into my Crack again. No sound, just dead.

 

I haven't really changed anything, except for the resolder. What should I do?

All help is most appreciated.

Can't really make sense of your description, but the sound you're getting sounds like you mixed the channels and you're running mono. Your soldering might be bad, or the two positive coppers might be hitting each other somehow. 

 

Opps, kind of a late reply, huh? Whatever...

post #2083 of 2311

Yo, anyone know where to get decent wire for DiY jobs in Hong Kong? I already know where to get the jacks but the wire has stumped me so far.

post #2084 of 2311

Ok about to plunge into DIY cabling for my HD600 and here is my shopping cart. I'm sure its missing a few things, both things i'm aware and not aware of.

- 30 ft of Mogami 2893 Cable:
http://www.redco.com/Mogami-W2893.html


- Neutrik NP3RX-B:

http://www.redco.com/Neutrik-NP3RX-B.html

 

- Cardas HPSC connectors:
http://www.partsconnexion.com/CARDAS-71677.html

 

- 100ft of 550 Paracord: 

http://www.wildbillwholesale.com/pa1.html

- Y splitter???
(I need help here)

- Heat shrink???
(Also could use some help with this one)

 

Are those all the parts I need? I do have soldering tools left over from when I built a bottlehead crack. Any help regarding the process will be much appreciated!

post #2085 of 2311
Quote:
Originally Posted by junkimchi View Post

Ok about to plunge into DIY cabling for my HD600 and here is my shopping cart. I'm sure its missing a few things, both things i'm aware and not aware of.


- 30 ft of Mogami 2893 Cable:
http://www.redco.com/Mogami-W2893.html


- Neutrik NP3RX-B:
http://www.redco.com/Neutrik-NP3RX-B.html

- Cardas HPSC connectors:
http://www.partsconnexion.com/CARDAS-71677.html

- 100ft of 550 Paracord: 
http://www.wildbillwholesale.com/pa1.html


- Y splitter???

(I need help here)


- Heat shrink???

(Also could use some help with this one)

Are those all the parts I need? I do have soldering tools left over from when I built a bottlehead crack. Any help regarding the process will be much appreciated!

Wait wait wait. Sanity check: why do you need 30 feet of Mogami cable? Just making sure you know W2893 is a quad cable already, there's 4 conductors inside the outer sheathe.

And yep you'll need some heatshrink (I recommend buying a variety pack for ~$9 off amazon so you'll have any size you need in the future).

For the y-split some people just use heatshrink. There are some snap-on y-splits you can buy like this or this. My personal method is doing the split inside of a 3.5 mm jack housing and sealing it with hot glue.


Edited by Senpai3330 - 6/19/14 at 12:37pm
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