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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread - Page 123

post #1831 of 6137
Quote:
Originally Posted by CombatCupcake View Post
 

 

Thanks.

Far as I can see, the Nucleotide wire on DHC only comes as 24 AWG. So theres no 26 option. I guess that would be good unsleeved, though.

SoI'll look into the PlusSound SPC. But I'll get a bunch of Mogami anyway since its so cheap, and see how it works.

 

What about for the 4strand braid, which size paracord?


I have bought from plusound and bought mogami mic cables. I can tell you it takes quite a bit of time to take the various layers off if you are stripping the wires out a mic cable ! I think plussound have great pricing on their DIY stuff....


Edited by Lohb - 4/21/14 at 12:42am
post #1832 of 6137
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lohb View Post
 


I have bought from plusound and bought mogami mic cables. I can tell you it takes quite a bit of time to take the various layers off if you are stripping the wires out a mic cable ! I think plussound have great pricing on their DIY stuff....

 

It did take a while my first time around. After you know what to do, you'll be stripping 10 foot lengths in under 5 minutes with little effort. 

It is especially easy if you plan on keep the strands wrapped together until the Y. 

Here are the generalized steps:

The Steps (Click to show)

1. Find a long, flat surface that you don't mind accidentally scratching. (I admit to using a folding dinner try when I'm lazy)

 

2. Use a razor, exacto knife, or box cutter to remove outer PVC. (I use a $0.99 break away razor from a hardware store). Make a small cut at one end down to the shielding. Use a piece of masking tape a foot or two away to hold the cable still if needed.

 

3. Slide blade smooth and careful at an even pace along the starting incision. Very little pressure needed. Try doing 6 inch to a foot lengths at a time before repositioning. (As you get more comfortable, you'll do longer length in a single swipe).

 

4. After each swipe, pull PVC insulation off of the shielding up to the end point. Repeat step 3 until you reach the end.

 

5. Loosen one end of the shielding by pushing it inward with your fingers. Once it expands, place a small piece of tape over inner paper-wrapped cable. Now cause the shielding to expand again and keep pulling it down and expanding while holding onto the inner cable at the taped end. You'll be able to slide the whole thing off with ease towards the untaped end. 

 

6. Finally, tape the opposite end. I use a small piece of electrical tape that I stretch to be even thinner. You can simply sleeve it as is using the "worm" method (It reminds me of peristalsis, for those Bio majors out there). Alternatively, you can strip off the paper wrapping and cotton strands. I leave them for reduced microphonics.

 

7. For a Y-split, simply strip down the desired length of one end and place a small piece of tape where it stops. The wires are twisted together, simply untwist in the reverse direction and re-pair in groups of two. They will re-pair readily without much work at all. 

 

I really need to make a video demonstrating this. The whole process, usually takes me less than 5 minutes for 4 foot lengths. 10 foot lengths less than 10 minutes. 

post #1833 of 6137

+1 for Mogami and 550 paracord.

 

I used Mogami W2799 from Redco (cheapest per foot I could find), stripped the sheath (just run an Exacto knife or whatever down the length; the copper shield will protect the wires, unless you go at it like Conan ;)), untwisted the copper shield (bit of a PITA, but not at all difficult)... et voila!  four twisted wires.  Paracord Planet cord (free shipping via Amazon... Outdoor Bunker? I think) fit fine and they have an insane selection.

 

The nice thing about 550 paracord for the two wires above the Y split is that it's loose enough to not be microphonic.  Never heard a peep with my HE-500s cables.  I made a cable for my Q701s (so, no Y split), and the fit is tight enough to be slightly microphonic.  It's not a problem when the music's playing, but you can hear it rubbing when it's dead quiet.  But for IEMs it should be fine.

 

Super cheap solution, and Redco has a decent selection of connectors.

post #1834 of 6137
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lohb View Post
 

I want to remove my balanced 4-XLR M-F plugs and put something smaller that can also lock together.

Can anyone suggest a smaller quality interconnect so I can switch between speaker tap cables and single-end terminations.

XLR's are built like a tank but they are so flipping heavy and it is impractical  when plugged into a DAP especially !

@65535 is this cable below a balanced one ?

Could you please give me a lead on it as it looks great quality and so small !!

That's a Lemo connector - FGG.0B.304.CLAD52Z the mating side for inline use would be the PHG.0B.304.CL****. The pair will run you around $60 so keep that in mind. Otherwise they're a fantastic connector push-pull and locking.

post #1835 of 6137

Btw, does anybody have try mixed wire (silver and copper based)?? for example, silver as signal and copper as ground or vice versa??

 

does it gives different tone??which one do you like?? please share.... 

post #1836 of 6137
Quote:
Originally Posted by paijo View Post
 

Btw, does anybody have try mixed wire (silver and copper based)?? for example, silver as signal and copper as ground or vice versa??

 

does it gives different tone??which one do you like?? please share.... 

People call that a hybrid cable. Having silver as a signal wire supposedly makes the headphones sound a little brighter i.e. sharper, more pronounced treble and middle-highs. I say supposedly because it's all about what the person thinks they hear before and after.

post #1837 of 6137
Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post
 

People call that a hybrid cable. Having silver as a signal wire supposedly makes the headphones sound a little brighter i.e. sharper, more pronounced treble and middle-highs. I say supposedly because it's all about what the person thinks they hear before and after.

Yup... i also call it as hybrid cable too...
anyway, i have same mindset as you said, but some people here (at my local group), tell me that they prefer copper as signal and silver as ground, they told me that the sounds became much neater then silver as signal and copper as ground. (*.as info, i never use full silver on my experiment, it's always silver coated copper,because pure silver is to expensive to my range :( ).

How about you? have you try it and which one you like better?

post #1838 of 6137

Make a cable that is durable, and has appropriate sized conductors. If silver wire is out of your price range you're certainly not doing yourself a disservice by not having it.

post #1839 of 6137

Can anyone tell me what kind of connectors these are? I bought an AntLion ModMic 3.0 and would like to get rid of the cable that I have running up the audio cable for my Q701. I want to see if I can mount a male connector onto the headphone somewhere and then convert the Q701 to a 4-pin xlr and have a TRRS connector on the other end of the cable, then just screw the mic directly onto the headphone. I don't like how messy this looks right now.

 

 

 

YUCKKKKK

 

post #1840 of 6137
Quote:
Originally Posted by paijo View Post
 

Yup... i also call it as hybrid cable too...
anyway, i have same mindset as you said, but some people here (at my local group), tell me that they prefer copper as signal and silver as ground, they told me that the sounds became much neater then silver as signal and copper as ground. (*.as info, i never use full silver on my experiment, it's always silver coated copper,because pure silver is to expensive to my range :( ).

How about you? have you try it and which one you like better?


Ha! the very question I was going to ask....was looking at SPC and copper for 4-strand balanced....

post #1841 of 6137
Quote:
Originally Posted by 65535 View Post
 

Make a cable that is durable, and has appropriate sized conductors. If silver wire is out of your price range you're certainly not doing yourself a disservice by not having it.

Yup, i like doing experiment on recabling and mix and match some kind of cable of any spec and any brand,with some mini jack. but in my opinion, pure silver is way too expensive to be sacrificed :D.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lohb View Post
 


Ha! the very question I was going to ask....was looking at SPC and copper for 4-strand balanced....

hahaha.. i taught , i am the only person here that curious about this topic... 
 

if that so, i will try making 2 hybrid m2m with same spec , in a different combination of signal and ground. and i'll post it here. :D

post #1842 of 6137
Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post

Can anyone tell me what kind of connectors these are? I bought an AntLion ModMic 3.0 and would like to get rid of the cable that I have running up the audio cable for my Q701. I want to see if I can mount a male connector onto the headphone somewhere and then convert the Q701 to a 4-pin xlr and have a TRRS connector on the other end of the cable, then just screw the mic directly onto the headphone. I don't like how messy this looks right now.
Looks like a MMXC type of connector? They're big on IEMs like the Westones and the new Fostex TE-05.
post #1843 of 6137
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrEleventy View Post


Looks like a MMXC type of connector? They're big on IEMs like the Westones and the new Fostex TE-05.

Are the MMXC's screw on type? It seems like some kind of coaxial. I emailed them and someone responded saying that they would find out for me, so I'll come back and let you know if you're right. 

post #1844 of 6137

It's a snap on, it has a split ring on the female (I think) connector which snaps into a groove on the male connector holding them together. Works well enough for most applications, be careful about how often you cycle them, they may wear out faster than more common connectors.

post #1845 of 6137
Quote:
Originally Posted by paijo View Post
 

Yup... i also call it as hybrid cable too...
anyway, i have same mindset as you said, but some people here (at my local group), tell me that they prefer copper as signal and silver as ground, they told me that the sounds became much neater then silver as signal and copper as ground. (*.as info, i never use full silver on my experiment, it's always silver coated copper,because pure silver is to expensive to my range :( ).

How about you? have you try it and which one you like better?

I made a couple hybrid cables, but I prefer just copper for the sound and price. I might have to use a silver plated copper whenever I make a cable for my T50RP mod, unless I can brighten them up somehow without using silver. We'll see. They're just so dark sounding stock.

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