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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread - Page 117

post #1741 of 6301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post




Heat shrink would be easiest. I also suggeste adding a length of paperclip or similar flexible metal inside. That will allow you to mold it, as desired, to your ear.

 

For this experiment I will use solid core (22 awg) for the channels and the stranded for the ground. So the 22 awg solid core will be good to mold it to my ears.

 

I can see down the road I'll likely make another cable for portable use using all stranded wires. I love the looks of the paracord sleeved cable and it feels good too.

post #1742 of 6301

Solid core 22 awg for IEMs? You probably will find that 22 awg is too large to be comfortable and solid core will make it extremely stiff.

post #1743 of 6301
Quote:
Originally Posted by 65535 View Post
 

Solid core 22 awg for IEMs? You probably will find that 22 awg is too large to be comfortable and solid core will make it extremely stiff.

 

I sampled the 22 awg solid core (left from my previous project) with the 28 awg stranded shown in the pic below. It feels pretty good to me when I put it over the ear. I am still debating whether I should get the 22 awg or the 26 awg soild core (only two available options), thinking the 22 awg may be less prone to failure from bending fatigue. Not 100% positive.

 

 

post #1744 of 6301

Solid core wire really isn't intended for portable use, it's fine for hookup wire and permanent installation. Using it for anything that moves is asking for failure. Stranded wire was designed just for applications that require repeated movement.

post #1745 of 6301
I'm actually going to experiment with solid core/hybrid for a cable as soon as I get a little free time. I find that mixing stiffer cable with various flexible materials has a positive outcome. Hopefully that holds true for solid core.
post #1746 of 6301
Oh no the infection is spreading...

Its the Head-Fi solid core Cat5e movement...

Now if we can just find some nice RJ45 jacks with lights to put in the headphone cups. biggrin.gif
post #1747 of 6301

Following an earlier post, wondered if somebody could answer a couple of questions and provide some direction for me please for a first time cable modder.

 

I have an IEM cable which is currently terminated with a 3.5mm Viablue connector, I am looking at swapping this and changing it to a 4 pin XLR connector for use with my M8. I understand that in theory this should be fairly easy to do?

 

I believe that the wire will be soldered onto the Viablue connector as follows: Tip - Left Signal +, Ring - Right Signal +, Sleeve - Ground (so I assume this will have two wires soldered onto it for left and right)?

 

I believe the configuration for the XLR will be: Pin 1 - Left Positive, Pin 2 - Left Negative, Pin 3 - Right Positive, Pin 4 - Right Negative.

 

It should therefore be fairly easy to identify the Left and Right Positive (Signal) wires. How would I Differentiate the left and right negative wires?

 

Cheers

Jason

post #1748 of 6301
Get a multimeter and test the continuity of the ground wires.
post #1749 of 6301
Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post

Get a multimeter and test the continuity of the ground wires.
Will the left and right negative give different readings then?

Would I be right in thinking that to test which is left and right negative I would touch the bare cable at the connector end with one lead of the multimeter and then the pins at the IEM connector with the other to locate which is left and right negative?
Edited by Jason36 - 4/7/14 at 6:13am
post #1750 of 6301
You would connect the multimeter to the ground pin for your left IEM and the test which wire from the viable connector makes a connection through the multimeter.
post #1751 of 6301
Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post

You would connect the multimeter to the ground pin for your left IEM and the test which wire from the viable connector makes a connection through the multimeter.

Thanks for the help with this....I now have an IEM cable re terminated with a 4 pin XLR connector :-)

BEFORE:


AFTER:



At the moment it's only a cheap XLR connector, but plan on changing it for a Nuetrik connector in due course
post #1752 of 6301
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

Oh no the infection is spreading...

Its the Head-Fi solid core Cat5e movement...

Now if we can just find some nice RJ45 jacks with lights to put in the headphone cups. biggrin.gif

 

Yeah that's the home court advantage of DIY. :wink_face:

post #1753 of 6301

Does anyone know of any good suppliers of "cable nuts"? (And by cable nuts, I mean the piece that hides and protects the area where the two strands connect into one, I don't know the proper term for it).

 

Also, is the paracord good to go as soon as you buy it, or do you need to empty the interior? Are there any guides or videos on how to do this? Are there paracords thin enough for individual cable sleeving (braid post sleeve)?


Edited by Taowolf51 - 4/8/14 at 11:47am
post #1754 of 6301
Paracord has multiple strands and microparacord has 1 strand on the inside. Removing it is as simple as you would think, pulling on it lol.

Little trick I do when feeding wire through microparacord is pulling on the wire sleeve enough to stretch the sleeve à couple mm over the wire. Then burn that part and seal it by "pinching" it with your fingers (Warning!! It's hot lol so wait a second or 2 before pinching. This closes the tip off and makes it a lot easier to feed. Some people put tape on the tip, I tried and it was too big to fit in the microparacord.

Cheers
post #1755 of 6301

I don't see any microparacord on the website in the OP, where do you get your microparacord?

 

Thanks for the tip for feeding! Will this work better than just getting a clean cut on the wire/sleeve?

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