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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread - Page 115

post #1711 of 2308
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toxic Cables View Post
 

Had some new wire made for DIY sales only.

 

What would you guys like to see the following stranded cables sold for. Realistically, not £2 for stranded silver :)

 

26AWG OCC 4N Cryo Silver

 

26AWG OCC 7N Cryo Copper

 

26AWG OCC 7N Cryo Litz Copper

 

26AWG OCC 7N Cryo Litz Silver plated Copper

 

24AWG OCC 7N Cryo Litz black cotton sleeved Copper

Oh wow I would love to get my hands on some of these.  

What I think should be the prices on these...maybe a bit low.  Forgive me if they are dollars as honestly I have no idea what the conversion rate is. (its like 1.8:1 right?)

 

26 Silver $6

26 Copper $1

26 Litz Copper $1.50

26 Litz SPC $3

24 Litz Copper $2

 

:beerchug:

post #1712 of 2308
Every cable will suffice
post #1713 of 2308
Wondering if anyone can give me a bit of advice, as I'm a complete newbie to this DIY cable lark.

I'm looking at buying a second hand IEM cable which currently has JH style pins and a 3.5mm connector....now I have two options I would like to look at for this.

1). Leave the pins in place for use with my AUD-8x customs and re terminate the connector to a 4 pin XLR for use with my M8

2). Re terminate both ends for my HD600 again using a 4pin XLR at the amp end.

I've never done anything with cables before and wondered how easy this would be to do for a complete newbie? Do you think it would be possible to undertake without having to unravel all the braiding?

I would probably do the XLR first and then if this went OK look at doing the headphone / IEM bit....however I already have a balanced cable for my HD600.

Any advice / help or pointers would be welcomed.

Jason
post #1714 of 2308
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zashoomin View Post
 

Oh wow I would love to get my hands on some of these.  

What I think should be the prices on these...maybe a bit low.  Forgive me if they are dollars as honestly I have no idea what the conversion rate is. (its like 1.8:1 right?)

 

26 Silver $6

26 Copper $1

26 Litz Copper $1.50

26 Litz SPC $3

24 Litz Copper $2

 

:beerchug:

Was thinking cheaper for the silver ;)

http://www.toxic-cables.co.uk                  PREPARE TO BE INTOXICATED

 

 

Reply
post #1715 of 2308

 

 

 

 

 

 

finally the paracord sleeving arrived..

Still Sommer Cable, some CAT5 cable, and shrinking tubing is yet to arrive

 

I have to recable EVERYTHING in my house :) chaning all stuff to DIY

post #1716 of 2308

WOOOT

 

How are you guys :D, I'm aware this isn't the best way to do this BUT GUESS WHAT

 

the iBasso CB11 cable SUCKS :D after about 3 months of contiuns use mine died... what a shame

 

SO that said, any one interested in building me one? I actually had a custom one with my pb1, it was pretty nice and I sold it with my pb1 

 

Non the less, I need another one... like fast as I currently have no portable set up and that is for me pretty painful

 

That said, please feel free to pm me guyz :3 I have a budget in mind of about $50, and well I'm kinda URGENTLY NEEDING ONE, since the one I have is DEAD q.q

post #1717 of 2308
Is there any way to easily remove the white writing that is on the outside of Canare L4E6S cable?
post #1718 of 2308
Quote:
Originally Posted by fenderf4i View Post

Is there any way to easily remove the white writing that is on the outside of Canare L4E6S cable?

 

Acetone!

post #1719 of 2308
Quote:
Originally Posted by cute View Post
 

 

Acetone!

 

 

Or nail polish remover then, I assume?

post #1720 of 2308
ANYBODY.?????
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason36 View Post

Wondering if anyone can give me a bit of advice, as I'm a complete newbie to this DIY cable lark.

I'm looking at buying a second hand IEM cable which currently has JH style pins and a 3.5mm connector....now I have two options I would like to look at for this.

1). Leave the pins in place for use with my AUD-8x customs and re terminate the connector to a 4 pin XLR for use with my M8

2). Re terminate both ends for my HD600 again using a 4pin XLR at the amp end.

I've never done anything with cables before and wondered how easy this would be to do for a complete newbie? Do you think it would be possible to undertake without having to unravel all the braiding?

I would probably do the XLR first and then if this went OK look at doing the headphone / IEM bit....however I already have a balanced cable for my HD600.

Any advice / help or pointers would be welcomed.

Jason
post #1721 of 2308
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason36 View Post

ANYBODY.?????

Nothing is easy your first time, but nothing you are considering is overly complicated or difficult.  If you have never soldered anything before, then it is going to be a challenge to get it right on the first try and you might want to buy practice materials before you tackle an expensive aftermarket cable.  Once you decide what to do and get started, we can help with specifics.  If you are looking for a hand hold from start to finish, I'm not sure you will get that, as DIY is about DIY and the empowerment that comes from doing research and executing the project yourself.

post #1722 of 2308

Hi guys any idea on how to separate the arrowed parts from the metal? Hopefully I can save the parts too and reuse them.

 

I am preparing the recabling for my EX1000.

 

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

post #1723 of 2308

just pull it gently from the border of metal and rubber

post #1724 of 2308
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiofreakie View Post
 

just pull it gently from the border of metal and rubber

 

Just hold the metal and rubber with each hand and pull them in the opposite direction?

post #1725 of 2308

TL;DR - built a new cable for my AKG K240 Studio headphones using Canare L-4E6S cable sleeved in 550 paracord (type 3). Fat fingers & lack of patience can break little parts. Read the whole thing for paracord sleeving suggestions.

 

I just started my first DIY project tonight, creating custom cable for my AKG K240 Studio headphones. I picked up some Canare L-4E6S cable, Switchcraft TA3FX 3-pin female mini-XLR, and a Switchcraft 35HDRANN right-angle nickle coated 3.5mm plug. My fat fingers broke off a post on the mini-xlr so I had order a couple of more, be here Friday. Anyways, what I wanted to do was use paracord as paracord crafting is a hobby of mine. Just wanted to post a few things a newbie, me, learned tonight getting what I wanted:

 

Paracord: Using paracord that you can pick up at Michaels or Joann Fabrics, even though it is the same manufacturer here in the US, they are not always the same diameter I found out tonight. It seems the solid colors are slight smaller in diameter (especially internally) than the multi-color/camo cords. I fished on some camo cord in a matter of minutes. Solid color was a no go for me. One thing about paracord is that if it is made in the US, it is pretty much made at the same facility, just repackaged by whoever. Chinese made paracord is not nearly as nice and workable as the US made stuff (not tooting horns here, just the solid truth, after working with paracord for 20+ years now).

 

Cable: Canare L-4E6S, definitely has to be stripped for 550 paracord (type 3). 750 paracord might fit, but I doubt it. Anyways, back to stripping. I just used a razor blade and ran the cable across my desk. Use a kitchen table, counter, whatever so you can run the blade down the length of the cable in longer runs. This stops the cable from turning on you and just gets annoying. I went in just a little. You know when you are getting to deep when you feel like speed bumps. That is the blade hitting the braided shielding. Don't press down so hard :)  No worries, you didn't break anything. Once you get the cut all the way down, use your fingernail and pry open the rubber jacket. From there you can just peel it away from the cable. You shouldn't have to pull to hard. If you have to use a little force, no worries, this cable is crazy strong.

 

When fishing the paracord onto the cable, you want to "push" the paracord onto the cable. Once you work out fishing it a few inches to a foot, you will get the hang of it and it should go quick at this point. I make a light fish with my hand that is on the paracord, and kind of push the cable towards my fist. You will feel the paracord bunch up, quite a few inches at a time. Then I squeeze my pinky finger as to not let the paracord slip backwards. Once I squeeze my pinky, I release the fist a little and the paracord would go right up the cable with little to no effort at all. In about 3 minutes I did 10 feet of cable. 15 minutes if you include the stripping.

 

Must have tools for DIY cabling for you first timers: Good wire/side cutters, good wire stripper, decent soldering iron, decent solder, decent solder wick (remove any extra solder you might get everywhere your first time soldering), MAGIC HANDS (I have the original Radio Shack magnified ones from the 80s or 90s), razor blade/sharp knife. My favorite soldering iron for doing small stuff is the ANTEX G/3U (mines quite old). I like it because I can easily slide on/off different tips as needed, and it doesn't get dangerously hot as to start melting stuff you are working around.

 

This project, to do my headphone cable only cost me $25 shipped. I am in Chicago, IL, USA so I used Full Compass. They are outside of Madison, WI, USA and ground shipping is the same as overnight for me. They have a lot of decent stuff at pretty good prices. I just found a dealer for Furutech who lives a mile from me. Already talking to him about getting me some really nice looking Furutech connectors. Sorry for the book.

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