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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread - Page 98

post #1456 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darknet View Post


Thanks a lot! I guess I'm going to be giving the heat shrink option a shot then lol

Replied to you in Mikros thread about this, but wanted to add this: found something that fits our bill:  Connectronics  35-4CON-LP  plug, Markertek sells em too. I'll pm you if I find other good stuff as I'm still diggin through.   

http://www.head-fi.org/t/71148/diy-cable-gallery/7770

post #1457 of 2705
So, does L-4E6S make an ok headphone cable? Looking at building up something for LCD-2. smily_headphones1.gif
post #1458 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feynman View Post
 

I thought that I'd start a small project, make a balanced cable for my upcoming Audeze LCD 2. I haven't made a cable myself before and from reading a bit this is what I need as far as I know; 

 

2 mini XLR's for the headphone 

1 y-split, either shrink or similar or a physical y-split piece 

1 male XLR at the end 

Cable: Either a quad-cable, or is it possible with silver wire as well (four of them?) 

Cable cover and shrink

 

Then you braid the cable, litz pattern? After this you basically solder the connectors and you are done? Is this it? 

 

Gladly accepts any help! :)

Basically.  Make sure you get 4-pin mini XLRs.  Switchcraft is the original, Amphenol makes one that is as nice if not better for half the price, Neutrik makes them, but not a fan of the strain relief, and of course you can get cheap ones off of ebay that on occasion can have fit issues.

 

If you go silver, I would avoid solid core as much as possible.  Very stiff, prone to kinking, and  can even break if flexed too much.  I had a silver wire break mid cable and was practically impossible to fix.

 

Make sure to mark your wires or have a multimeter on hand to keep track of what goes where.  And remember to put the the pieces of the connector onto the cable before soldering :)

 

Have fun!

post #1459 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post
 

Basically.  Make sure you get 4-pin mini XLRs.  Switchcraft is the original, Amphenol makes one that is as nice if not better for half the price, Neutrik makes them, but not a fan of the strain relief, and of course you can get cheap ones off of ebay that on occasion can have fit issues.

 

If you go silver, I would avoid solid core as much as possible.  Very stiff, prone to kinking, and  can even break if flexed too much.  I had a silver wire break mid cable and was practically impossible to fix.

 

Make sure to mark your wires or have a multimeter on hand to keep track of what goes where.  And remember to put the the pieces of the connector onto the cable before soldering :)

 

Have fun!

Okay I'll keep that in mind! 

 

if not solid core silver cable, what silver cable do you recommend? And if you buy a quad cable with four conductors in the same cable, do you strip away the outer shielding to be able to make the split? 

post #1460 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feynman View Post
 

Okay I'll keep that in mind! 

 

if not solid core silver cable, what silver cable do you recommend? And if you buy a quad cable with four conductors in the same cable, do you strip away the outer shielding to be able to make the split? 

 

 

Chris at HPLAudio has a great stranded OCC silver cable. I just used some of his product for interconnects, it turned out awesome. He also has the y-splitter and mini-XLR connectors needed as well.


Edited by fenderf4i - 3/1/14 at 12:04pm
post #1461 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feynman View Post
 

Okay I'll keep that in mind! 

 

if not solid core silver cable, what silver cable do you recommend? And if you buy a quad cable with four conductors in the same cable, do you strip away the outer shielding to be able to make the split? 

You could also try Toxic Cables, Plussounds, Ted at Headphonelounge, or ebay roulette :)

post #1462 of 2705
Damn Pailiccs plugs... Over half of them have no cable clamp. frown.gif

Anyhoo I want to shorten up the 85' cable that comes on the GMP 8.300 D's, the cable is 4.8mm and the hole in the shell of the Pailiccs bowling pin type jack is 5mm so that is good. There is normal wire in the stock cable as opposed to the enameled litz stuff.

The question is any ideas on how to secure the cable in the jack, I am not to worried of it pulling out as I can put a few layers of heat shrink on the cable so it won't come back through the hole. I just don't want it to twist and break the solder or wires.

Will hot glue hold in this situation or should the JB Weld be applied for a more permanent attachment?

Thanks guys!
post #1463 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

Damn Pailiccs plugs... Over half of them have no cable clamp. frown.gif

Anyhoo I want to shorten up the 85' cable that comes on the GMP 8.300 D's, the cable is 4.8mm and the hole in the shell of the Pailiccs bowling pin type jack is 5mm so that is good. There is normal wire in the stock cable as opposed to the enameled litz stuff.

The question is any ideas on how to secure the cable in the jack, I am not to worried of it pulling out as I can put a few layers of heat shrink on the cable so it won't come back through the hole. I just don't want it to twist and break the solder or wires.

Will hot glue hold in this situation or should the JB Weld be applied for a more permanent attachment?

Thanks guys!

Hot glue works great for that application.  Effectively permanent for normal use, but still removeable if needed.  I know at least one major pro builder who does the same.

post #1464 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post

Hot glue works great for that application.  Effectively permanent for normal use, but still removeable if needed.  I know at least one major pro builder who does the same.
Thank you good sir, the hot glue it is!
beerchug.gif
post #1465 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

Damn Pailiccs plugs... Over half of them have no cable clamp. frown.gif

Anyhoo I want to shorten up the 85' cable that comes on the GMP 8.300 D's, the cable is 4.8mm and the hole in the shell of the Pailiccs bowling pin type jack is 5mm so that is good. There is normal wire in the stock cable as opposed to the enameled litz stuff.

The question is any ideas on how to secure the cable in the jack, I am not to worried of it pulling out as I can put a few layers of heat shrink on the cable so it won't come back through the hole. I just don't want it to twist and break the solder or wires.

Will hot glue hold in this situation or should the JB Weld be applied for a more permanent attachment?

Thanks guys!

 

Not sure if this will help. I used a dual-wall heat shrink (with adhesive) shown in the pic. I actually like the look too.

 

post #1466 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMinor View Post
 

 

Not sure if this will help. I used a dual-wall heat shrink (with adhesive) shown in the pic. I actually like the look too.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, much appreciated, but I personally detest heat shrink on the outside of a connector, I don't even like it peeking out the hole. :D

post #1467 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post
 

Thanks for the suggestion, much appreciated, but I personally detest heat shrink on the outside of a connector, I don't even like it peeking out the hole. :D

 

I see. I am the opposite and like to see it made rough & husky. :wink:

post #1468 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post
 

Thanks for the suggestion, much appreciated, but I personally detest heat shrink on the outside of a connector, I don't even like it peeking out the hole. :D

 

A man after my own tastes.

post #1469 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post
 

 

A man after my own tastes.

It's easy and lazy to slap heat shrink over a connector because the cable isn't secured properly internally. I like a clean look, heat shrink is to be avoided in areas that are seen.

post #1470 of 2705
I also hate heatshrink over the connector. Having a bit poking out for strain relief is fine, and clear looks best if you're going bare wire.
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