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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread - Page 94

post #1396 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by PXSS View Post
 

Lathes are pretty expensive. Don't think it's worth spending 200+ to trim a plug case.

You could use a dremel tool with a metal cut-off wheel.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, I guess something like this:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-EZ406-Cut-Off-Mandrel-Cutting/dp/B000FBLRVA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392608463&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+tool+with+a+metal+cut-off+wheel

post #1397 of 6133

That's it.

post #1398 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMinor View Post
 

Hi guys what's the best tool to cut this Neutrik plug along the colored line?

 

A DREMEL with a cut-off wheel or you clamp it with say a vise then used a hacksaw then put a masking/painters tape(perfectly straight) all around the barrel.Put edge of tape where you want to cut then cut just under the edge of the tape then Grind off the rest.The tape is to protect the barrel from scratches and to aligned your cut.What would you do with the strain releif it might not fit?I hope these helped Have fun and GOOD LUCK!

post #1399 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post
 

A DREMEL with a cut-off wheel or you clamp it with say a vise then used a hacksaw then put a masking/painters tape(perfectly straight) all around the barrel.Put edge of tape where you want to cut then cut just under the edge of the tape then Grind off the rest.The tape is to protect the barrel from scratches and to aligned your cut.What would you do with the strain releif it might not fit?I hope these helped Have fun and GOOD LUCK!

 

Strain relief? You mean heat shrink tubing!

post #1400 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by JacobLee89 View Post
 

 

Strain relief? You mean heat shrink tubing!

No the white plastic.

post #1401 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post
 

No the white plastic.

 

Shrink tubing will fix it!

post #1402 of 6133
Or just do what everyone else does: save the barrel for a y-split. Place the black end strain relief on by itself and use some glue to on the rest of the jack. Works great.

If you're set on cutting it, then they hacksaw method above is the most cost efficient. With any of the methods above you might have have to fix the cut end of the threading inside so it'll go on smooth. Not too hard to do though.
post #1403 of 6133
Does anyone know of a cellphone case friendly mini plug? The only thing I can find is a pailiccs trrs. I don't want a trrs plug as it messes with some of my amp/sources where I have to partially pull out the plug for it to work correctly. I was thinking maybe wiring it up like so :

T - Left
R --- Right
R -- Ground
S _/

Anything that might go wrong with that kind of wiring? I think if it plug it into a cellphone it might have undesirable effects due to grounding the mic. Suggestions? Maybe just DIY a slim pack with headshrink & sugru...
post #1404 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrEleventy View Post

Does anyone know of a cellphone case friendly mini plug? The only thing I can find is a pailiccs trrs. I don't want a trrs plug as it messes with some of my amp/sources where I have to partially pull out the plug for it to work correctly. I was thinking maybe wiring it up like so :

T - Left
R --- Right
R -- Ground
S _/

Anything that might go wrong with that kind of wiring? I think if it plug it into a cellphone it might have undesirable effects due to grounding the mic. Suggestions? Maybe just DIY a slim pack with headshrink & sugru...

You mean these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5mm-3-Pole-Male-Repair-headphone-Jack-Plug-Metal-Audio-Soldering-Back-cover-/251212036568?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7d6779d8

post #1405 of 6133
That would work. I forgot that I defaulted to hide listings on eBay not in the US. That'll definitely limit my options. Thanks. smily_headphones1.gif
post #1406 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by JacobLee89 View Post
 

 

Strain relief? You mean heat shrink tubing!

Maybe strain relief against flexing but it won't do anything for tensile strength which is where the cable clamp comes in to play.

 

Those are a very well design connector unmodified.

post #1407 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by 65535 View Post
 

Maybe strain relief against flexing but it won't do anything for tensile strength which is where the cable clamp comes in to play.

 

Those are a very well design connector unmodified.

 

I guess the next best thing to do would be to hot glue + layered heat shrinking, but I can imagine that doing so will result in more effort and money spent than required.

 

Would duct tape be a better solution? Can't go wrong with defaulting to primitive DIY ;).

post #1408 of 6133

Without the barrel the white plastic still fits, you might have to trim the end off but most of it fits fine.

post #1409 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post
 

A DREMEL with a cut-off wheel or you clamp it with say a vise then used a hacksaw then put a masking/painters tape(perfectly straight) all around the barrel.Put edge of tape where you want to cut then cut just under the edge of the tape then Grind off the rest.The tape is to protect the barrel from scratches and to aligned your cut.What would you do with the strain releif it might not fit?I hope these helped Have fun and GOOD LUCK!

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post

Or just do what everyone else does: save the barrel for a y-split. Place the black end strain relief on by itself and use some glue to on the rest of the jack. Works great.
 

 

Yeah that's a good alternative. I will also wrap both ends with dual-wall heat shrinks for clamping.

post #1410 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMinor View Post
 

 

Yeah that's a good alternative. I will also wrap both ends with dual-wall heat shrinks for clamping.

 

 

This is of what I was saying. It's what most do. Just took the barrel off and placed the strain relief over the threading. The white strain relief inside still fits but you need to cut a little of the length off. Some krazy glue to keep the two sides of the casing together and you're set. I've done my own "stress testing" on it just to make sure, and it's solid. I really only used a very small amount of glue that I could still just heat up and separate if I needed. 

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