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FiiO E12DIY Limited Edition Version---DIY your own sound ! - Page 55

post #811 of 1538
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClieOS View Post
 

Mouser.com, digikey.com, element14.com (= farnell / newark), or rs-online.com are all very reputable electronics parts supplier. You won't want to pick up a cheap pair of OPA627 over eBay or some unnamed website as it is probably one of the most counterfeited opamp around.

 

Mouser is a lot cheaper than RS Online (at least buying from their Australian sites which then source the stock from overseas anyway it seems)

post #812 of 1538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loquah View Post
 

 

Mouser is a lot cheaper than RS Online (at least buying from their Australian sites which then source the stock from overseas anyway it seems)


Mouser doesn't cover import tax and local GST usually, so the listing price will be cheaper but you might get hit by custom tax. RS Online Australia on the other hand already includes the taxes, so they are listing the final price, plus they have local stock. Of course just about everything in Australia is more expensive than U.S.


Edited by ClieOS - 2/13/14 at 10:36pm
post #813 of 1538
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
 

Will have to listen more but at this point I prefer the OPA627. 

any quick impressions why you liked 627 over muses?

post #814 of 1538
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClieOS View Post
 


Mouser doesn't cover import tax and local GST usually, so the listing price will be cheaper but you might get hit by custom tax. RS Online Australia on the other hand already includes the taxes, so they are listing the final price, plus they have local stock. Of course just about everything in Australia is more expensive than U.S.


Thanks for the info, I'll look into it further

post #815 of 1538
Quote:
Originally Posted by shyamelge View Post
 

any quick impressions why you liked 627 over muses?

Have to listen more but on first listen I didn't like the bass of the Muse as much as the 627. 

post #816 of 1538
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post

Have to listen more but on first listen I didn't like the bass of the Muse as much as the 627. 

I think you are comparing MUSES01 regarding that comment.

Have you tried MUSES02 yet?
post #817 of 1538
Quote:
Originally Posted by highfell View Post


I think you are comparing MUSES01 regarding that comment.

Have you tried MUSES02 yet?

I have been so busy at work (ER nurse) but Yes, I am using the 01 and haven't tried the 02 but I have let the 01 burn in and the bass cleared up and I am getting good transparency. I will try the 02 today if I have time. 

post #818 of 1538
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
 

I have been so busy at work (ER nurse) but Yes, I am using the 01 and haven't tried the 02 but I have let the 01 burn in and the bass cleared up and I am getting good transparency. I will try the 02 today if I have time. 

 

Please continue to prefer the 627, my wallet's begging you!! :wink_face:

post #819 of 1538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loquah View Post
 

 

Please continue to prefer the 627, my wallet's begging you!! :wink_face:

I do, I fooled myself! Good blind test. I "thought" I had left the 201 in place but I had replaced it with the 627. So at this point, yes I prefer the 627. I am listening to the 02 right now. It does sound different. It is brand new and needs some time. 

post #820 of 1538
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClieOS View Post
 

p/s: the oriignal plan to use Silmic II bypassed by PP doesn't work as the space isn't enough. My spared Nichicon MUSE ES won't fit so I didn't bother. Might need to get some smaller capacitance in the future but I am pretty happy as it is.

 

That's a real cool DIY! So, any recommendation for small and slim bypass cap to improve transparency?  Any result of the Silmic II bypass?

I plan to solder a slim small cap, but not sure which cap is better to improve the transparency.

Thanks!

post #821 of 1538
Quote:
Originally Posted by earfonia View Post
 

 

That's a real cool DIY! So, any recommendation for small and slim bypass cap to improve transparency?  Any result of the Silmic II bypass?

I plan to solder a slim small cap, but not sure which cap is better to improve the transparency.

Thanks!

 

As said, I didn't bypass the Silmic II because it doesn't have enough space. But Silmic II itself is already really good. Overall it is quite transparent, but still retains the smoothness of an electrolytic caps. If you want the kind of the sharpness / rawness of a film cap, but can't find one small enough to fit inside, I reckon AVX OxiCap NOJ series should do you well. If you are not good at desoldering (which isn't easy btw, as the copper pad in E12DIY get detached easy during desoldering), I'll recommend you to just cut the leg of the stock Wima off, but left in some length and just solder the replacement caps directly onto the Wima's leg. If you do choose OxiCap, remember to heat-shrink it so it won't accidentally short anything else.

post #822 of 1538
Quote:
Originally Posted by earfonia View Post
 

 

That's a real cool DIY! So, any recommendation for small and slim bypass cap to improve transparency?  Any result of the Silmic II bypass?

I plan to solder a slim small cap, but not sure which cap is better to improve the transparency.

Thanks!

Try to find some non polar Black Gates. 16 volt 33uF. 

post #823 of 1538
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
 

Try to find some non polar Black Gates. 16 volt 33uF. 

 

Thanks! I'm thinking not to replace the existing WIMA caps, but just to add small bypass caps for the higher frequencies.

post #824 of 1538
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClieOS View Post
 

 

As said, I didn't bypass the Silmic II because it doesn't have enough space. But Silmic II itself is already really good. Overall it is quite transparent, but still retains the smoothness of an electrolytic caps. If you want the kind of the sharpness / rawness of a film cap, but can't find one small enough to fit inside, I reckon AVX OxiCap NOJ series should do you well. If you are not good at desoldering (which isn't easy btw, as the copper pad in E12DIY get detached easy during desoldering), I'll recommend you to just cut the leg of the stock Wima off, but left in some length and just solder the replacement caps directly onto the Wima's leg. If you do choose OxiCap, remember to heat-shrink it so it won't accidentally short anything else.

 

Ok, noted the risk and the tips! Thanks!

post #825 of 1538
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
 

Try to find some non polar Black Gates. 16 volt 33uF. 

 

IMO, BG is far from being transparent. Well, at least the few pairs of NX Hi-Q (which some have a hundreds hours or two on them) I have are nowhere near being transparent sounding. Even the Silmic II (which only get 10~20 hours so far) sound more transparent to my ears.


Edited by ClieOS - 2/18/14 at 2:30am
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