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FiiO E12DIY Limited Edition Version---DIY your own sound ! - Page 43

post #631 of 2221
A lot about fakes and not... I now know what to look for when I am collecting my 02. Ordered it from a reputable dealer here in DK. And then next project is grinding some aluminium!!
Edited by toears - 1/13/14 at 1:40pm
post #632 of 2221
Quote:
Originally Posted by toears View Post

A lot about fakes and not... I now know what to look for when I am collecting my 02. Ordered it from a reputable dealer here in DK. And then next project is grinding some aluminium!!

i have been grinding my casing whole night but still cannot get the good result....guess i will have to grind further..

post #633 of 2221
Quote:

Originally Posted by nasudaijin View Post

 

...

I guess your MUSES02 and MUSES8820 are actually NJM4580.

 

 

Just got some words back from Elekit. The MUSES02 they sent to me is either from eleshop.jp or akizukidenshi.com. They ordered only from either of those places but can't remember which is where mine come from. So the MUSES02 is definitely genuine, and that raises the question on what kind of finishing(s) are on the MUSES series - My MUSES01 come from ASUS (which uses a ton of them in their Xonar Essence series of DAC) so authenticity is also guaranteed. That can only lead to one conclusion that MUSES does have different kind of finishing and it doesn't automatically means fake if they don't look identical to another's MUSES.

 

Well, all add to the mystery of the MUSES...

post #634 of 2221
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClieOS View Post
 

 

Just got some words back from Elekit. The MUSES02 they sent to me is either from eleshop.jp or akizukidenshi.com. They ordered only from either of those places but can't remember which is where mine come from. So the MUSES02 is definitely genuine, and that raises the question on what kind of finishing(s) are on the MUSES series - My MUSES01 come from ASUS (which uses a ton of them in their Xonar Essence series of DAC) so authenticity is also guaranteed. That can only lead to one conclusion that MUSES does have different kind of finishing and it doesn't automatically means fake if they don't look identical to another's MUSES.

 

Well, all add to the mystery of the MUSES...

what if elekit is telling lie?

post #635 of 2221
Quote:
Originally Posted by doki81 View Post

what if elekit is telling lie?

No frigging way
post #636 of 2221
Quote:
Originally Posted by doki81 View Post
 

what if elekit is telling lie?

 

Being one of the well known DIY amp kit maker in the audio world and famous for their educational electronics kits, they have no need to lie. They have been around longer than Head-fi and their audio related products ain't even their core business. In short, they are just a very well respected business in Japan.

post #637 of 2221

So "if" a person does have a question about their 1 or 2 Muse, it is down to either sound, or X-ray. I guess buy from a reputable source, which normally makes sense anyway. 


Edited by jamato8 - 1/13/14 at 8:50pm
post #638 of 2221
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
 

So "if" a person does have a question about their 1 or 2 Muse, it is down to either sound, or X-ray. I guess buy from a reputable source, which normally makes sense anyway. 


Amen.

post #639 of 2221
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClieOS View Post
 

 

Just got some words back from Elekit. The MUSES02 they sent to me is either from eleshop.jp or akizukidenshi.com. They ordered only from either of those places but can't remember which is where mine come from. So the MUSES02 is definitely genuine, and that raises the question on what kind of finishing(s) are on the MUSES series - My MUSES01 come from ASUS (which uses a ton of them in their Xonar Essence series of DAC) so authenticity is also guaranteed. That can only lead to one conclusion that MUSES does have different kind of finishing and it doesn't automatically means fake if they don't look identical to another's MUSES.

 

Well, all add to the mystery of the MUSES...

 

Are you sure you bought your item directly from Elekit?

Which product did you buy exactly?

I can't find any product with MUSES02.

 

This is a part of the picture you uploaded.

 

 

If you still believe that your MUSES02s are legit seeing this obvious difference,

I have nothing to say. I don't think I can convince you.

 

I'm gonna summarize how to spot fake MUSES op amps for those who are interested.

 

1. Take a good close-up picture and see if all surfaces except the circle dent

have the same texture and if the top surface and the sides with leads make

clean arcs. If there are sharp edges around the top surface and the texture

of the top surface looks different, it is 99.99% fake.

 

2. Compare the shape of the logo and the letters on the one in question

with the official logo and authentic pictures.

(eleshop.jp has good close-up pictures.)

Is the woman looking up?

Does the back of the head look vertical?

Do the sides of "0" look vertical?

Do the three horizontal strokes of "E" have the same length?

Does "8820" or "8920" look bigger than the lot number below?

 

 

3. Prepare a decent multimeter and measure resistances between these pins

of the one in question then compare the values with those of legit NJM4580.

 

a) between 3->4

b) between 5->4

c) between 6->4

d) between 8->4

 

"->" means one way, i.e. red->black or black->red depending on multimeters.

All four should read tens of mega ohms.

a, b, and c read a similar value and d read a lower value than the others.

I can't give you specific values because the values are too high and they vary

significantly depending on which multimeter you use.

If your MUSES8820 or MUSES02 is legit, it shows lower values than NJM4580.

If you can't find any significant difference between the one in question and NJM4580,

I think the one in question is actually NJM4580.

 

Note that NJM4580, MUSES8820, and MUSES02 have an identical circuit internally

and sound almost identical. You need good audio equipment to tell the difference.

 

If someone made fake MUSES02s out of legit MUSES8820s, (I highly doubt that, though)

the method 3 doesn't work, so rely on the method 1 and 2, or check how soft the leads are.

 

I hope this helps.

post #640 of 2221
Quote:
Originally Posted by nasudaijin View Post
 

Are you sure you bought your item directly from Elekit?

Which product did you buy exactly?

I can't find any product with MUSES02.

...

 

Yes, Elekit sent it to me directly, as part of the review I did for them on the HP-TU01. No, it is not part of the original TU-HP01 packaging, which comes with MUSES8820 and OPA2604 only. The reason they sent me the extra MUSES02 is because they have learned from their local user's feedback (by our own mod AnakChan, I believe) that MUSES02 is an really good pairing with the TU-HP01, so they decided to include it into my review unit. It is not one of their regularly stocked opamp, so they source it from one of the two places mentioned, which are their usual go-to places. That's what they told me. I didn't ask them to give me more detail as it is really not needed. They have a business to run and I don't want to waste their time for my own entertainment. As long as the source(s) of the IC is legit (which both places are), then there is no reason to question the authenticity of the chip, unless the question is whether eleshop or akizukidenshi is selling fake themselves.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by nasudaijin View Post

 

Note that NJM4580, MUSES8820, and MUSES02 have an identical circuit internally

and sound almost identical. You need good audio equipment to tell the difference.

 

I do like to know what do you based your finding on?

 

There is also the question of whether we can be 100% sure each and every batch of the MUSES look identical to each other with the same finishing, but I guess JRC will be better fit to answer that question. I did email them a few days ago, but so far they have not replied. My guess is they probably won't going to reply to an individual's query.


Edited by ClieOS - 1/14/14 at 2:31am
post #641 of 2221
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClieOS View Post
 

I do like to know what do you based your finding on?

 

I've read an article on some issue of this magazine,

http://toragi.cqpub.co.jp

but I can't remember the exact words and which issue the article was on

so I'm not 100% sure.

They may not be 100% identical but I'm sure both 8820 and 02 are

developed based on NJM4580.

post #642 of 2221
Quote:
Originally Posted by nasudaijin View Post
 

They may not be 100% identical but I'm sure both 8820 and 02 are

developed based on NJM4580.

 

Won't be surprised if JRC borrows some circuit design from the past, though I won't go as far as to say they are identical based on difference in the datasheet. 8820 and 02 are however near identical, which suggests 02 is just 8820 with better tolerance / rating. Also not surprising as many chip makers have the same habit of naming a better rated part with different name and sold for higher price.

post #643 of 2221
Quote:
Originally Posted by nasudaijin View Post
 

 

Are you sure you bought your item directly from Elekit?

Which product did you buy exactly?

I can't find any product with MUSES02.

 

This is a part of the picture you uploaded.

 

 

If you still believe that your MUSES02s are legit seeing this obvious difference,

I have nothing to say. I don't think I can convince you.

 

I'm gonna summarize how to spot fake MUSES op amps for those who are interested.

 

1. Take a good close-up picture and see if all surfaces except the circle dent

have the same texture and if the top surface and the sides with leads make

clean arcs. If there are sharp edges around the top surface and the texture

of the top surface looks different, it is 99.99% fake.

 

2. Compare the shape of the logo and the letters on the one in question

with the official logo and authentic pictures.

(eleshop.jp has good close-up pictures.)

Is the woman looking up?

Does the back of the head look vertical?

Do the sides of "0" look vertical?

Do the three horizontal strokes of "E" have the same length?

Does "8820" or "8920" look bigger than the lot number below?

 

 

3. Prepare a decent multimeter and measure resistances between these pins

of the one in question then compare the values with those of legit NJM4580.

 

a) between 3->4

b) between 5->4

c) between 6->4

d) between 8->4

 

"->" means one way, i.e. red->black or black->red depending on multimeters.

All four should read tens of mega ohms.

a, b, and c read a similar value and d read a lower value than the others.

I can't give you specific values because the values are too high and they vary

significantly depending on which multimeter you use.

If your MUSES8820 or MUSES02 is legit, it shows lower values than NJM4580.

If you can't find any significant difference between the one in question and NJM4580,

I think the one in question is actually NJM4580.

 

Note that NJM4580, MUSES8820, and MUSES02 have an identical circuit internally

and sound almost identical. You need good audio equipment to tell the difference.

 

If someone made fake MUSES02s out of legit MUSES8820s, (I highly doubt that, though)

the method 3 doesn't work, so rely on the method 1 and 2, or check how soft the leads are.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Thanks buddy... I am surely got a fake 02

 

I will take a side by side picture once got the shippment from akizukidenshi

 

if i compare my fake 02 with eleshop.jp's pic. it is obviously can compared by human eyes

1. lower jaw of the lady is too long

2. "0"2, the zero font face is too fat

3. the edge of the IC is not smooth+round


Edited by hkfriends - 1/14/14 at 7:55am
post #644 of 2221
Quote:
Originally Posted by nasudaijin View Post
 

 

Are you sure you bought your item directly from Elekit?

Which product did you buy exactly?

I can't find any product with MUSES02.

 

This is a part of the picture you uploaded.

 

 

If you still believe that your MUSES02s are legit seeing this obvious difference,

I have nothing to say. I don't think I can convince you.

 

I'm gonna summarize how to spot fake MUSES op amps for those who are interested.

 

1. Take a good close-up picture and see if all surfaces except the circle dent

have the same texture and if the top surface and the sides with leads make

clean arcs. If there are sharp edges around the top surface and the texture

of the top surface looks different, it is 99.99% fake.

 

2. Compare the shape of the logo and the letters on the one in question

with the official logo and authentic pictures.

(eleshop.jp has good close-up pictures.)

Is the woman looking up?

Does the back of the head look vertical?

Do the sides of "0" look vertical?

Do the three horizontal strokes of "E" have the same length?

Does "8820" or "8920" look bigger than the lot number below?

 

 

3. Prepare a decent multimeter and measure resistances between these pins

of the one in question then compare the values with those of legit NJM4580.

 

a) between 3->4

b) between 5->4

c) between 6->4

d) between 8->4

 

"->" means one way, i.e. red->black or black->red depending on multimeters.

All four should read tens of mega ohms.

a, b, and c read a similar value and d read a lower value than the others.

I can't give you specific values because the values are too high and they vary

significantly depending on which multimeter you use.

If your MUSES8820 or MUSES02 is legit, it shows lower values than NJM4580.

If you can't find any significant difference between the one in question and NJM4580,

I think the one in question is actually NJM4580.

 

Note that NJM4580, MUSES8820, and MUSES02 have an identical circuit internally

and sound almost identical. You need good audio equipment to tell the difference.

 

If someone made fake MUSES02s out of legit MUSES8820s, (I highly doubt that, though)

the method 3 doesn't work, so rely on the method 1 and 2, or check how soft the leads are.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Thanks a lot!

Excellent observation!

I bookmarked your post :bigsmile_face:

post #645 of 2221

Picked up my DIY today and initial impressions are really good.

 

I'm wondering if anyone can confirm something for me in relation to the provided buffers. So far I like the OPA1611 as the op-amp, but I'm torn between the LM49600 and LMH6321 as the buffer. It sounds like the LMH6321 is better on my T1s, but the LM49600 is better on low impedance IEMs. The specs would suggest that this is the case, too. Does anyone know if the LMH49600 will be a problem if used with low impedance IEMs (i.e. 15.9 ohms)?

 

Also, has anyone found a buffer that's great with a wide range of impedances?

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