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Bluedio R+ Bluetooth 4.0 Headphones with NFC and APT-X - Page 11

post #151 of 200

I'm having that same audio issue, sounds like its fading in and out. Getting a little static also. I'm using it on my pc via bluetooth any known fixes? also i can't seem to download the eq from the Bluedio website, it won't even open.

post #152 of 200

Hi @korthouj

 

Sorry for a late reply.

 

I used the following address aftersales@gdliwei.com to contact bluedio support. But they were far from useful!

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post #153 of 200
Quote:
Originally Posted by HakanaiSeishin View Post
 

So I decided to return them, I've been wasting way too much time on this and really don't have any more to spare. I'll be selling the SPI and cable on eBay or something, or if you want to purchase it then feel free to PM me.

 

You wouldn't still happen to have the tool + cable in your possession, would you? 

 

Also, can anyone clarify me on the led blinking codes on the R+? It seems random at the least, and I don't know what to make of it. Sometimes the blue led blinks slowly twice, sometimes it rapidly blinks three times. 


Edited by oddbehreif - 8/3/14 at 8:01am
post #154 of 200

I have tried to follow all your posts, and before my head explodes, thought I would ask a hopefully simple question. BTW, I absolutely love these headphones and am a bass fanatic.

 

I can connect  easily except with my Dell computer. It has Bluetooth built in, and it shows these are connected, but no sound comes through and the speakers still carry the sound.

 

Is there something I am doing incorrectly or is it this firmware issue many speak of?

 

Thanks for any guidance.

post #155 of 200
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjhoskins View Post

I have tried to follow all your posts, and before my head explodes, thought I would ask a hopefully simple question. BTW, I absolutely love these headphones and am a bass fanatic.

I can connect  easily except with my Dell computer. It has Bluetooth built in, and it shows these are connected, but no sound comes through and the speakers still carry the sound.

Is there something I am doing incorrectly or is it this firmware issue many speak of?

Thanks for any guidance.
Hi...
You need to.change the default output mode on your pc. Right click the speaker icon on your taskbar and select playback devices. Your bluedio should show up. Right click that and set it as default. This should hopefully solve your issue.
post #156 of 200

Thank you so much. Such an easy solution that had completely evaded me.

post #157 of 200

GOOD NEWS EVERYONE:

 

After a long email exchange I have obtained from a very friendly Bluedio rep both the instructions on how to enable aptX support and the software required to do the deed. Order a USB-SPI programmer and see the attached files here >> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/11zmhypve7m986a/AADbcGpB9pltSB547kKDAsFga?dl=0 << !

 

To anyone who's worried about hunting for a suitable 5-pin microUSB b-b cable (see the discussion half a dozen pages back), it was simply a case of bad luck as the cable should be included by default, but if you like you can ask them to make sure the cable is included in the order. If you still didn't receive the cable, it's a simple 5-pin to 5-pin with no pesky crosswiring (I took the programmer apart and checked with a multimeter), so you can google for a service that sells tailormade USB cables (yes, they do exist) or you can just make one yourself. 

 

Oh, major PS - be extra careful with the tools, they're pretty low-level stuff and you can really mess up your headphones if you poke the wrong things in there. Windows 8 / 8.1 users will have to check this link for instructions on how to install the drivers. http://www.getdriver.com/how-to/2410/make-windows-7-drivers-work-windows-8-8-1-inf-modding.html

 

Cheers,

-odd


Edited by oddbehreif - 9/7/14 at 7:00am
post #158 of 200

14/09/2014.

Thank you for your work with Poweramp + Bluedio R+.

 

The setting are excellent!

I'm an old fart!

The best earphones I've used in the past are Stax electrostatics, these are my first Wireless ones.

 

I'm very impressed with your dedication to your ability to setup the best sound for your phone.

 

I'm using a Oneplus One 64GB phone which appears to have a built-in amp. which has more wattage then your phone, the sound is fabulous, thanks again.

 

Excellent work should always be respected.

 

Regards,

 

MAXOZ.

post #159 of 200

Just received my Bluedio R+ Legend from Amazon. Overall impression is good in audio quality (especially for a senior citizen). Bass is louder than my AKG K702.

Try connection this headphone using the cable supplied to my audio-gd compass and surprisingly the sound is fantastic. Sound from my Samsung S4 also is nice.

Overall, this headphone is worth the price.

 

The equalizer setting cannot work even pressing the volume + & - together. The company website does not have any file or firmware to download.

 

Btw, what is APT-X?

 

post #160 of 200

Hey guys, first post here on head-fi. I own the similar Bluedio R (not the R+, but the previous version). First I am just curious if anyone here knows how sound quality differs between the two models? It looks like impedance was cut in half for the newer model R+.

 

The Model R specifications list the speakers as being 2 50mm 100ohm, and 6 32ohm. While the R+ speakers are listed as 50ohm, and 16ohm respectively. What if any difference will this make in sound quality?

 

Now for the real reason I am posting. The Model R and R+ seem to share the same body, has anyone successfully removed the outer cup that houses the speakers and been able to reattach it? I'm not sure how, but last night mine came detached, and I can't seem to get it back on. I have had the Model Rs for the better part of two years and had 0 problems like this.

 

Here is a picture of what happened. I'm not 100% sure if they're attached in the same way as the model R+ but it wouldn't surprise me if they were.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5-pMjHUx3bGVXM4ZGZ3T0pRczE5anRMOENoMjFHekRJQVNF/edit?usp=sharing

 

Sorry for low quality of picture, my phone camera is mediocre to say the least. I really hope I can reattach the speaker housing, as far as I can tell nothing is damaged, it just came off.

 

If for some reason I cannot fix it, is it worth upgrading to the Model R+? I don't really care about NFC.

post #161 of 200

I have the monoprice model of these coming in this coming week. For $48.92 shipped they should be a very good deal. 

 

For reference I currently own a fairly wide variety of headphones: 

- Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO Closed Studio Headphones - 250 Ohms

- Audio-Technica ATH-M50 Studio Monitor Headphones

STREET by 50 Cent Wired Over-Ear Headphones by SMS Audio. 

 

I use the Behringer MicroAmp HA400 Ultra-Compact 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier. Let me know if anyone has any suggestions for me.

 

Thanks

post #162 of 200
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonicDistortion View Post
 

Hey guys, first post here on head-fi. I own the similar Bluedio R (not the R+, but the previous version). First I am just curious if anyone here knows how sound quality differs between the two models? It looks like impedance was cut in half for the newer model R+.

 

The Model R specifications list the speakers as being 2 50mm 100ohm, and 6 32ohm. While the R+ speakers are listed as 50ohm, and 16ohm respectively. What if any difference will this make in sound quality?

 

Now for the real reason I am posting. The Model R and R+ seem to share the same body, has anyone successfully removed the outer cup that houses the speakers and been able to reattach it? I'm not sure how, but last night mine came detached, and I can't seem to get it back on. I have had the Model Rs for the better part of two years and had 0 problems like this.

 

Here is a picture of what happened. I'm not 100% sure if they're attached in the same way as the model R+ but it wouldn't surprise me if they were.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5-pMjHUx3bGVXM4ZGZ3T0pRczE5anRMOENoMjFHekRJQVNF/edit?usp=sharing

 

Sorry for low quality of picture, my phone camera is mediocre to say the least. I really hope I can reattach the speaker housing, as far as I can tell nothing is damaged, it just came off.

 

If for some reason I cannot fix it, is it worth upgrading to the Model R+? I don't really care about NFC.


Hey man, I do sell Bluedio products and I did have 2 customers came back to me with the same detached ear cup problem. The local distributor says it'll requires fixing in the factory so I guess there's no way you can reattach it back, sorry for the bad news :( Those two customers dropped the R+ on marble stone floor and that happened.

 

R and R+ do share the same body, R+ comes with a MUCH STRONGER BASS, and the Active 5.1 Surround Sound performance is really satisfying. When customers want to try it I play on my iPad Star Wars Revenge of the Sith scene 1 where the fighters are flying around in space and dog fighting, most of them love it. I don't think it's a very accurate Surround Sound positioning but the sound effect is really good. For music performance, the bass is much more solid and strong, best for pop/R&B/rock music, if you love more details and vocals then it's not your thing.

post #163 of 200
Quote:
Originally Posted by greenarrow View Post
 

Just received my Bluedio R+ Legend from Amazon. Overall impression is good in audio quality (especially for a senior citizen). Bass is louder than my AKG K702.

Try connection this headphone using the cable supplied to my audio-gd compass and surprisingly the sound is fantastic. Sound from my Samsung S4 also is nice.

Overall, this headphone is worth the price.

 

The equalizer setting cannot work even pressing the volume + & - together. The company website does not have any file or firmware to download.

 

Btw, what is APT-X?

 

APT-X is an audio codex compression. if both your playing and listening devices support APT-X, such codex allows a quicker audio packet transmittion and minimize the loss during the bluetooth data transfer. If your original file is of CD quality or above, APT-X codex guarentees CD quality audio on your receiving side.

post #164 of 200

That's disappointing.

 

Wow I can't imagine the R+ bass as being that much stronger, the bass on the R is already pretty intense. On some tracks it feels like the headphones are literally jumping off my head. If people really have the apt-x working, I might go ahead and order the R+ as a replacement. Even if it's a fairly technical process to enable it, I'm fine with that.


Edited by SonicDistortion - 10/3/14 at 7:07am
post #165 of 200

Update on my situation.

 

Having given up hope of fixing them, and working under the assumption that they were already broken, so if I broke them worse it wasn't really a huge deal, I decided to proceed in an attempt to fix them. When the cuff detached it left a swivel plate on the inside of the 'band' portion of the headphone, that is the inside of the control panel area with the volume up and down buttons etc. The swivel plate is connected to the 'band' portion of the headphone by two cylindrical knobs mirroring the track forward and track back buttons. The swivel plate WAS connected to the speaker cup by two cylindrical knobs mirroring the volume up and volume down buttons. This is where my speaker cup came detached from the 'band' portion of the headphones.

 

On the speaker cup there are two holes where the knobs would normally fit. It is a very tight fit, meant to keep the cup from being able to detach. I decided that it would be easier to remove the swivel plate from the 'band' portion of the headphones, and attach it to the speaker cup first. I did this by placing a small flat head screw driver next to the track forward cylindrical knob, and twisting. This successfully popped the swivel plate out. I then connected the swivel plate to the speaker cup. Using a flat head screwdriver I then bent the swivel plate just enough to pull one side out of the speaker cup, so the hole for one of the 'track forward, or track back' knobs was visible. I placed the hole over the corresponding knob, and then pulled the screw driver out, allowing the swivel plate to retract back into the speaker cup. I then did the same thing on the other side, used a flat head screwdriver to bend the swivel plate. This bend allowed the diameter of the swivel plate to shrink just enough so that I could fit the hole in the swivel plate back over the track forward knob.

 

I know this is a poor description of what I did for anyone who cannot see the inside of the headphone. However hopefully if anyone else experiences this failure, my poor description can help them to fix their beloved headphones.

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