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Schiit Lyr Tube Rollers - Page 269

post #4021 of 12724
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThurstonX View Post
 

 

Probably.  Only one way to find out.  "Have to be" CCa?  Not sure I understand the question, but I'll say, No, anyway.


I don't even know what the "cca" stands for but when it see it along with the Tesla E88CC, it seems to be more expensive. 

post #4022 of 12724
Quote:
Originally Posted by sling5s View Post


I don't even know what the "cca" stands for but when it see it along with the Tesla E88CC, it seems to be more expensive. 

 

CCa was a German designation for E88CC tubes that passed rigorous tests that qualified them for use in the German Postal Service.  They are identical to E88CCs (are, in fact, E88CCs).  They do command a higher price, generally speaking.  As to whether or not they're worth it, opinions vary, but as with most things in this hobby, hearing for yourself, in comparison to other tubes, is believing, whatever your conclusion ends up being.

 

HTH.

post #4023 of 12724
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThurstonX View Post
 

 

CCa was a German designation for E88CC tubes that passed rigorous tests that qualified them for use in the German Postal Service.  They are identical to E88CCs (are, in fact, E88CCs).  They do command a higher price, generally speaking.  As to whether or not they're worth it, opinions vary, but as with most things in this hobby, hearing for yourself, in comparison to other tubes, is believing, whatever your conclusion ends up being.

 

HTH.


Ahh.  I see. I'm learning a few things as I go.  It's good to know.  I guess I'll try some regular Tesla E88CC/ECC88. They seem to be more in my budget.  I'm guessing they will be better than the stock Lyr 2 tubes. 

post #4024 of 12724
Quote:
Originally Posted by sling5s View Post
 

Ahh.  I see. I'm learning a few things as I go.  It's good to know.  I guess I'll try some regular Tesla E88CC/ECC88. They seem to be more in my budget.  I'm guessing they will be better than the stock Lyr 2 tubes. 

 

Happy to help.

 

FWIW, I prefer my Tesla E88CCs to the stock GE 6BZ7s.  Hope they work out for you.

post #4025 of 12724
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThurstonX View Post
 

 

Happy to help.

 

FWIW, I prefer my Tesla E88CCs to the stock GE 6BZ7s.  Hope they work out for you.

At sling5s, many "sellers" put "CCA" in the title to their offerings. As Thurston has pointed out "CCA" is a very exclusive/expensive tube that commands high prices. Many sellers "want" to make you think theirs are as good as "CCA" UNLESS IT ACTUALLY SAYS CCA ON THE TUBE, TOTAL MISREPRESENTATION. No reputable seller would use that ruse. 

post #4026 of 12724

@ oskari

Got my PCC88 Miniwatt tubes. Top, 4 creases, code as follows:   7G

                                                                                        B36        

Small "O" getter, single tab support for getter, not "A" frame

Code was hard to read, used my 20X jewelers loup.

I have read, Mullard,post 1960, 4 characters, pre 1960 3 characters,

for second line date.

thinking mid to late 50s date

7G may be 7?, "G" is Mullard

Just guessing.

Code is correct.

 

NOS VINTAGE MATCHED PAIR PHILIPS MINIWATT PCC88 TUBES "O" GETTER CODE D35 TESTED

( 371188801734 )
 
Will try to take other pictures myself and post later, seller had code wrong, codes are at bottom on side of tubes like normal.

Edited by satwilson - 11/26/14 at 3:18am
post #4027 of 12724
Quote:
Originally Posted by satwilson View Post
 

@ oskari

Got my PCC88 Miniwatt tubes. Top, 4 creases, code as follows:   7G

                                                                                        B36        

Small "O" getter, single tab support for getter, not "A" frame

Code was hard to read, used my 20X jewelers loup.

I have read, Mullard,post 1960, 4 characters, pre 1960 3 characters,

for second line date.

thinking mid to late 50s date

7G may be 7?, "G" is Mullard

Just guessing.

Code is correct.

 

Post some pix.

post #4028 of 12724
Quote:
Originally Posted by satwilson View Post
 

@ oskari

Got my PCC88 Miniwatt tubes. Top, 4 creases, code as follows:   7G

                                                                                        B36        

Small "O" getter, single tab support for getter, not "A" frame

Code was hard to read, used my 20X jewelers loup.

I have read, Mullard,post 1960, 4 characters, pre 1960 3 characters,

for second line date.

thinking mid to late 50s date

7G may be 7?, "G" is Mullard

Just guessing.

Code is correct.

 

NOS VINTAGE MATCHED PAIR PHILIPS MINIWATT PCC88 TUBES "O" GETTER CODE D35 TESTED

( 371188801734 )
 
Will try to take other pictures myself and post later, seller had code wrong, codes are at bottom on side of tubes like normal.

The PCC88 can't be used in the Lyr2 - correct?

post #4029 of 12724
post #4030 of 12724

FYI From Tubeworld - The Best Sounding CCa's:

 

The Best Sounding CCa=6922 ever made
TOP 5:
-----
1) CCa Siemens & Halske 1950's "U" getter halo and 1960's "O" getter halo
   "Rarest and most sought after CCa, has "gray shield" between plates, 
    Most realistic sounding holographic soundstage, pure seductive sonic joy,
    complex symphonic images emerge effortlessly"
 
2) CCa Telefunken West Germany 1960's 
   "excellent neutral holographic soundstage, vast vocabulary of tone
    establishes remarkable layers of harmonics, very rare"

3) CCa Siemens & Halske A-FRAME construction late 1960's - early 1970's
   "beautiful open air holographic images, low microphonic tube construction, rare"

4) CCa LORENZ West Germany early 1960's
   "beautiful open air holographic images, very rare"

5) CCa VALVO Heerlen Holland 1960's
   "real sonic holography, extremely rare"

6) CCa Siemens Rohre A-Frame early 1973-1974 (in stock, silver shield)
post #4031 of 12724
Quote:
Originally Posted by sling5s View Post
 


Ahh.  I see. I'm learning a few things as I go.  It's good to know.  I guess I'll try some regular Tesla E88CC/ECC88. They seem to be more in my budget.  I'm guessing they will be better than the stock Lyr 2 tubes. 

 

If you're on a budget, might I suggest Voskhod gray shields? I got a set of 1977s and they just sounded so perfect for so little money I completely forgot about this thread for a while. 

post #4032 of 12724
Quote:
Originally Posted by SomeGuyDude View Post
 

 

If you're on a budget, might I suggest Voskhod gray shields? I got a set of 1977s and they just sounded so perfect for so little money I completely forgot about this thread for a while. 


Thanks.  I'll look it up.  How do they compare with stock, Tesla and Telefunken in terms of sound signature? 

post #4033 of 12724
Quote:
Originally Posted by SomeGuyDude View Post
 

 

If you're on a budget, might I suggest Voskhod gray shields? I got a set of 1977s and they just sounded so perfect for so little money I completely forgot about this thread for a while. 

+1 

post #4034 of 12724
Quote:
Originally Posted by satwilson View Post
 

@ oskari

Got my PCC88 Miniwatt tubes. Top, 4 creases, code as follows:   7G

                                                                                        B36        

Small "O" getter, single tab support for getter, not "A" frame

Code was hard to read, used my 20X jewelers loup.

I have read, Mullard,post 1960, 4 characters, pre 1960 3 characters,

for second line date.

thinking mid to late 50s date

7G may be 7?, "G" is Mullard

Just guessing.

Code is correct.

 

NOS VINTAGE MATCHED PAIR PHILIPS MINIWATT PCC88 TUBES "O" GETTER CODE D35 TESTED

( 371188801734 )
 
Will try to take other pictures myself and post later, seller had code wrong, codes are at bottom on side of tubes like normal.

 

The first line of the code should start with DJ (for PCC88).

 

The second line has the factory code (if B, that's Mullard, Blackburn), digit for year, letter for month, and (possibly) digit for week of month.

 

Here is an example with Heerlen factory code:

 

 

The code is:

 

DJ5

delta4L2

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThurstonX View Post

 

Post some pix.

 

That might help.

post #4035 of 12724
Quote:
Originally Posted by sling5s View Post
 


Thanks.  I'll look it up.  How do they compare with stock, Tesla and Telefunken in terms of sound signature? 

 

I can only compare to stock and Amperex but I'll say they sound very "neutral" to me. Like nothing colors the sound and it doesn't impart any of that artificial tube-iness of giving it heaps of warmth or anything. Just a great "set it and forget it" tube.

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