Damn! Looks very nice!
Good job, dude.
Yes it is a little difficult, basically you are putting a 1/2" hole into a curved surface, but the plastic is really soft and you can turn a drill into it by hand. The driver rests on a ridge that runs around the cup, so you need to have the mounting hole below this ridge otherwise the driver plate will not sit flat. The TINY xlr's have a flat spot on one side so they can be mounted in a panel and not turn, it's a D shaped hole, if you mount them so the flat side is facing the driver it will give you a little more clearance. The socket has to go straight so it will not flush up all the way around, the curved side will leave a little gap, but it is not much. If you totally flush mount it the socket body will angle up towards the driver plate and warp it. (You'll get a better understanding when you have a look inside the cups.)
There is NO room for the hex nut to tighten the socket, so JB-Weld KwickWeld is what I used to hold the socket in place, works like a charm, but you only have a few minutes to place the thing and clamp it as the epoxy sets up quickly. I C-Clamped the socket between the back of the cup and the flat spot on the socket, basically pushing the socket towards the back of the cup. So you'll want to push the socket into the epoxy prepped hole, holding the inward pressure you apply the C-Clamp between the back of the cup and the side of the socket, the downward clamping force will hole the socket in place.
Also the tabs on the driver itself are just set in plastic with a very fine hair like voice coil wire attached. These tabs will pull out very easily and break the voice coil wire! This happened to me, luckily the voice coil wire broke at the tab and not further down by the plastic. I managed to reattach the voice coil wire to the center tab instead with a half wrap and some solder. It worked and I was lucky, drivers are around $60 from beyerdynamic if you did have to replace one.
Just make sure you are extra aware of this problem and don't let the driver fall out of the cup but let it fall against your palm and then lower it out carefully and you will be fine.
The advantage to these connectors is that they lock in place, I can use any commercial cable that is wired for the LCD 2's and if you run across a balanced amplifier down the road, your headphones are all good to go.
I didn't like the coiled wire on the Pro's and wanted to change it, I wanted to have it removeable as well and I just like the look of the TINY xlr's.
If you are going to do this conversion and need any help with it just PM me your pics or questions.
Hey guys, sorry for digging up an old thread! I need you guys' help:)
Not too sure which one I should be taking out of the two:/
Those are two different cables there... a 4 pin and a 3 pin, do you need the mic functionality?
If so I'd go with the FiiO, if not the Griffin is better looking cable, as to quality they are probably about the same.
I do like me some shiny cable though.
I like this one in 4 pin as well.
Been a while for sure!
Hard to say bout the quality with any of those as they all come out of the buck and a half assembly plant in China... The Griffin does look nice, I'll have to get me one of those just for the collection.
Haha, no doubt. I only went with the Griffin one because it looked better than the others, or at least, could last me another week or so. Griffin made the Survivor iPhone case, and that was built like a tank, so that's the cheap option I went with:)
Of course, out of the three, durability and longevity is out of the question as they probably have expiry dates as to how many weeks they'll last.