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Fried my Aune X1 DAC/amp because I am an idiot. Can you help me repair it?

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 

Hi :)

 

So.. I got an Aune X1 DAC/Headamp today - sounds great by the way - and because I am a curious guy, I opened the case to check the interior.

Because I am an idiot, I missed a small plastic ring when putting it back together, which shorted the heatsink of a TDA2030A in the power supply section to the chassis. Said TDA2030A was fried immediately, and a resistor next to it looks like it may have suffered, too. Here's a picture:

 

 

 

The small square of PCB contained the TDA2030A (the board on the photo says LM1875, which seems to be an equivalent part) which is now dead, I have ordered a replacement. Now R44 at the bottom seems to have changed color in the middle section as well. I'm tempted to replace it, too, but I'm unsure about value (colours) and power rating. To me, it looks like orange-something-black-brown, which should be 3x Ohms (maybe it's yellow, so 34?), but my multimeter reads about 3 Ohms only? Also, I'm unsure about the power rating. 

 

So, if anyone could help me with these, I'd be very, very happy:

 

- What value and power rating does that resistor have?

- Why is there a "high power audio amp" (data sheet description of TDA2030A/LM1875) in the power supply section (It's not used as an audio amp - the chip is single channel and there's only one of them) ? Any guesses on what the chances of success are when replacing it? Is it likely that I have killed much more than those two parts?

 

Thanks!

post #2 of 9

The TDA2030A/LM1875 is being used as a virtual ground driver.

R44 is probably OK.

The rest is probably OK as well.

 

After replacing the LM1875, check for DC offset on the outputs.

 

Good luck!

post #3 of 9

A 3 ohm, 10%, five band resistor would be Orange Black Black Silver Silver

post #4 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avro_Arrow View Post

The TDA2030A/LM1875 is being used as a virtual ground driver.

R44 is probably OK.

The rest is probably OK as well.

 

After replacing the LM1875, check for DC offset on the outputs.

 

Good luck!

 

Thank you so much! Just to clarify, you are talking about DC offsets on line out/headphone out, right? 

(By the way, what's your best guess on the value of R44? Just in case something is wrong with it, it'd be great to know what I should try to replace it with.)

post #5 of 9

It's hard to tell what the second color is...maybe green...which would be 3.5 ohms

post #6 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by yawg3d View Post

 

Thank you so much! Just to clarify, you are talking about DC offsets on line out/headphone out, right? 

(By the way, what's your best guess on the value of R44? Just in case something is wrong with it, it'd be great to know what I should try to replace it with.)


Yes, DC offset at the headphone out.

There should be only a few mV

Check before plugging in a pair of test headphones.

 

R44 looks like a 1 watt resistor

post #7 of 9
Thread Starter 

Thanks again, after changing the TDA2030, it's back to life :) .

post #8 of 9

Hey! I have a Aune x1 smily_headphones1.gifwith a completely burned R44 after a power outage in the neighborhood ... (The only thing that was broken was x1) Everything else on the pcb board looks ok. Is there any posible to debug the X1 works. Aune psu is also completely die after test with multimeter .. Hmm

post #9 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunost187 View Post

Hey! I have a Aune x1 smily_headphones1.gifwith a completely burned R44 after a power outage in the neighborhood ... (The only thing that was broken was x1) Everything else on the pcb board looks ok. Is there any posible to debug the X1 works. Aune psu is also completely die after test with multimeter .. Hmm

 

 

"Looks okay" is probably not enough, if the resistor is actually fried, it might not have been the only part to take damage. For what it's worth, my X1 is back to life and it still has its old R44 in there, which measures about 3 Ohms (that measurement should be accurate, as one lead is actually dangling while no power supply is connected).

 

I would be a little worried about the power supply being dead "after testing it with a multimeter" - are you sure you didn't accidentally short the thing?


Edited by yawg3d - 6/28/13 at 9:15am
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