Thanks, still weighing options though, since I just started playing with some equalizers and wondering if that's not just enough for my needs. Anyhow, I am aware that the RBTs must be technically different to the 1Rs to a certain extent due to the bluetooth-stuff (battery, controls, else), but my questions is directed (solely) to the sound-relevant stuff, like the drivers, etc. All of that should be the same, right? Assuming this is the case, then applying the dynamat-mod should produce the same results as on the 1Rs, am I correct?
As I am completely NEW (like really really new) to all this sound-enthusiasm, I start to realize the complexity behind all this as I just started doing research. I have another illustration to make my point. Yesterday I read the reviews on the MDR1s (so all three phones) on http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/solid-sony-mdr-1r-mdr-1rbt-and-mdr-1nc (what a lovely site that is, btw) and I was wondering about the differences in the measured frequency responses. Take a look.
or to make it simple (that's a gif, wait for 4 seconds): http://www10.pic-upload.de/04.08.13/1kg7w3zs2r3.gif
Am I correct that the different responses are a solely due to the bluetooth-streaming since the devices are (sound-)technically the same since they are of the same built? If this is so, I have two options, either using a equalizer to level out these differences or instead using dynamat. Or should i first try to use the equalizer to level out the inherent sound-differences to the 1Rs and then apply the dynamat to make them sound just like your modded 1Rs?
Talking about the equalizing-part since this is complelty new to me: Am I correct that it's that simple to basically overlay both frequency graphs (1Rs and RBTs) and calculate the differences on any given point in the frequency range and then to make the corresponding changes to the equalizer? Example: I calculated -18db on the 300Hz frequency for the RBTs in comparison to the 1Rs, so all I do is increase the equalizer accordingly (+18db on the 300Hz) to make them sound as 1Rs? Hopefully I was capable of making my point since I'm not a native speaker. Cheers.
@ admins: How can I directly paste images into my posts? Somehow this is denied for me.
I'm afraid it's not as simple as that. What we measure of each unit (driver + ear cup assembly) is the frequency response curve of the whole lot, not only the driver. This includes how the volume of air in front of and BEHIND the drivers respond to being excited by various frequencies, how the port behaves at various frequencies and how the enclosure (ear cup and baffle plate) responds to what the driver is doing. That whole lot and more all contributes to the overall frequency response of the headphone speaker unit.
In this case of the 1R and 1RBT, while Sony will probably use the same driver and materials for both models, they cannot get away from the fact that the volume of the air behind the driver has changed - the 1RBT's air volume having been displaced by the BT electronics and amplifier. As the volume of enclosed air has changed, its frequency response will change and therefore the frequency response of the speaker assembly (or unit) is changed. As far as I can guess, there isn't a huge volume there to start with, so the change is probably quite significant in terms of percentage which should cause a considerable change in sq. Now I think what most likely happened is that Sony engineers probably tuned the amplifier/BT electronics in order to compensate for this as much as they could have (assuming, of course, that the 1R-like sound is actually what they wanted), leaving us with something that sounds may be in the right ball-park, at least. Again, they must also work against the limitations of BT->analogue signal thing which is unlikely to be a bed of roses.
My point is that there's a lot going on that causes a difference between the two and not only the BT protocol is at fault. However, I think a lot of that has been compensated for in the electronics and may be some extra damping etc. that they stuffed into the BT model if any.
As a personal opinion, I don't feel it is possible to make two headphones the same or one hp just better simply through eq'ing. You're not just moving a point in the f/r curve up or down. Regardless of the eq you use, you're going to be moving near-by frequencies up or down also. So unless you can measure, eq, and measure again a number of times, you're likely to end up with something different (rather than 'better') specially if you're trying to cure that rather sharp looking dip at 300Hz... anyway, that's just my 0.02...