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The Christiansen "DG" 300B Amplifier Build Thread - Page 11

post #151 of 631
Thread Starter 

All Neutrik and Switchcraft female panel jacks have the locking button.

 

The Cardas does not.  ($58 per pair + S&H, Canada)

It would fix the problem.

 

post #152 of 631
Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post


EDIT.  That's if you didn't want to see the two XLR jack mounting screws.

Thin inlay might work.

 

I'm not sure I understand.  The jacks can move about and have extra wiring, so I presume it should be able to slide foward of the case.  I presume with a panel they are held in place by the panel, and the recess for which the jacks fit into, and the screws on the outer edge of the panel.  So, pull of the panel, and the jacks slide out with it, yes?  When you put the plate on, it can slide into the recess, it may take some wiggling to find the correct orientation before it slides into the slot.

 

If an inlay, I'd imagine there's removable blocks to hold the jacks in place, on the backside.  That is screw the jack into the blocks, and slide the blocks into place and then attach them to the chassis with screws.  It's hard to visualize what you're doing with this part as there are so many possibilities.  I'm not sure how things are meant to hook from underneath, without wiggling of some sort (loose jacks).

post #153 of 631
Quote:

Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post

 

The Cardas does not.  ($58 per pair + S&H, Canada)

 

Amphenol too, much cheaper if you want nickel or anodized black.  Cardas looks nicer though, with the gold plating.

post #154 of 631
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by holland View Post

 

Amphenol too, much cheaper if you want nickel or anodized black.  Cardas looks nicer though, with the gold plating.

I found the Cardas from a seller in PA and I bit.

If they are surface mounted they will look decent against the maple and they would be much easier to add an inlay bezel.  Recess them and inlay can go over the top of the fasteners.

 

The problem with the button type is the wood is 1" 1/4 thick.  The mounting flange on the jack is recessed 2.7mm 

When you are mounting the push button type jack you must do it from Behind the Bezel, you need to tilt the jack 45 deg. into the hole of the bezel.  Metal or wood.  That could be done and the jack could nestle into a routed recess in the wood but you couldn't use screws to secure it.   It would be a whole lot of work because you'd have the jack attached to the piece you want to inlay. 

 

Without that locking button a plate or inlay goes straight on and mounts flush.  Hence the Cardas.

 

I looked at switchcraft  The mount was huge.

post #155 of 631

Always glad to help you find ways to spend more money.  wink.gif

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post

Randy,

 

You are correct.

Naturally, if I surface mounted them, no problem.

If they were mounted in a recess of the front panel, you wouldn't be able to angle the cover to nestle it into place.

They are designed to "hook" from underneath.

Actually, one couldn't use a raised surface plate either.

Many thanks for that one.

 

EDIT.  That's if you didn't want to see the two XLR jack mounting screws.

Thin inlay might work.

 

 

post #156 of 631
Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post


Without that locking button a plate or inlay goes straight on and mounts flush.  Hence the Cardas.

 

I looked at switchcraft  The mount was huge.

 

Meant Amphenol has non-locking jacks as well.  Neutrik does too.

 

Anyhow, glad you went non-locking.  I dislike locking with a passion, but don't say anything because so many use them.  I'd rather have the plug disconnect on an accident than take the whole amp with it.

post #157 of 631
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by holland View Post

 

Meant Amphenol has non-locking jacks as well.  Neutrik does too.

 

Anyhow, glad you went non-locking.  I dislike locking with a passion, but don't say anything because so many use them.  I'd rather have the plug disconnect on an accident than take the whole amp with it.

I even looked at modifying the locking jack.  They are crimped with a machine press.

 

Honest,  I swear I looked at Neutrik catalog online and anything female had a lock.

Moot anyway with the Cardas.

 

I appreciate your suggestions.

 

ANOTHER Question:

 

Wire.

 

What do ya'll like for output trans to XLR wire?

Cardas, Kimber, Litz?

Same thing RCA>Volume POT> Driver board.

 

I decided to solder the wire directly to the board.  I removed the terminal blocks for these connections.

post #158 of 631
Thread Starter 

I ordered 22 ga. solid core silver wire.

post #159 of 631
Thread Starter 

It's killing me...

I have nothing to work on.  eek.gif

post #160 of 631

Do what I do... Start a new project. :)

 

~Tom

post #161 of 631
Thread Starter 

Here's a look at my oddball vent design.

Monday all the bronze item go to a professional metal finishing company to be buffed and sealed.

 

Note:  The back fasteners are just set in.  They will be flush.

 

So... Does it look stupid?

I think with a high polish it will look ok.  I was going for Jules Verne.

 

 

post #162 of 631

I'm sure it will look great after you get it all put together, with the tubes glowing.  

It's kind of hard to tell what the finished amp is going to look like though, just seeing the plate.

post #163 of 631

Sceleratus,

 

I think it will look wonderful the way you intend.

 

I would add though that if you are able to do it I did have a small idea that might be a nice touch.

This is of course merely one mans opinion so feel free to disregard it, but I thought that if you are getting the entire top plate polished that even if you have the raised vent sections, it will blend in to the rest.

If you wanted a small amount of contrast, I was thinking that you could use some aluminum round stock to raise up the vent plates a touch more and either have them polished or anodized in a darker color. (perhaps black?) Then for the vent plates themselves, instead of using something like brass or copper (which tarnishes rather easily) You could keep just try to anneal them so that you get a bit of a multi-hued finish? Or perhaps anodize the top and have the bottom that faces the tubes highly polished.

 

You could also have the entire sheet bright dipped (think of it like an acid wash that makes it incredibly bright) and then clear anodized to protect the finish and make it very durable. (Lv.3 hard anodize is a great choice for this)

 

Just a couple ideas my friend. I know that no matter what you choose, it will look fantastic. You have already accomplished so much in this build that anything else is just the cherry on top. :)

 

Have a wonderful day.

post #164 of 631
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LordShad0w View Post

Sceleratus,

 

I think it will look wonderful the way you intend.

 

I would add though that if you are able to do it I did have a small idea that might be a nice touch.

This is of course merely one mans opinion so feel free to disregard it, but I thought that if you are getting the entire top plate polished that even if you have the raised vent sections, it will blend in to the rest.

If you wanted a small amount of contrast, I was thinking that you could use some aluminum round stock to raise up the vent plates a touch more and either have them polished or anodized in a darker color. (perhaps black?) Then for the vent plates themselves, instead of using something like brass or copper (which tarnishes rather easily) You could keep just try to anneal them so that you get a bit of a multi-hued finish? Or perhaps anodize the top and have the bottom that faces the tubes highly polished.

 

You could also have the entire sheet bright dipped (think of it like an acid wash that makes it incredibly bright) and then clear anodized to protect the finish and make it very durable. (Lv.3 hard anodize is a great choice for this)

 

Just a couple ideas my friend. I know that no matter what you choose, it will look fantastic. You have already accomplished so much in this build that anything else is just the cherry on top. :)

 

Have a wonderful day.

 

Lordy,

 

Thank you very much for posting.  You are very kind.

 

I have been out of my mind during the project downtime and I needed the diversion.  You (anybody) don’t have to hold back any criticism. It’s all good and I’ll only cry for a bit.

 

Example, if someone were to write that the vent’s look like sewer grates, that’s fine because I obsess over this stuff and thought to myself, “Damn, they look more like sewer grates” than a WWII pill box or some Jules Verne thing.  I usually don’t play it safe.

 

The vent standoffs were tricky because unless you have a Proxxon mini mill (which I thought about buying) you have to use a part for something other than what was intended.

 

I first went to DigiKey looking at board standoff’s but the 14mm brass ones I ordered were too tall and out of proportion.  So I went online to McMaster and got the 3mm x 3M SS hex in the photo because that’s the only choice for fasteners that will fit the panel hole size.

 

I am taking everything to Normany Metal Refinishing in Costa Mesa, CA for polishing.  The owner of AquaTech (panel cutting) said they were the best around.   I was going to say polish it and seal it.  Now because of your post I can ask about Bright Dip and Lv.3  Thanks. Maybe that’s what they were going to do anyway.

 

The sewer grates stick out enough that I will have them polished to match.  I polished and sealed everything 3 different times myself.  I would get it very bright using Tripoli and Wenol (see photo a few posts back) but when I tried to clean off the excess compound with acetone, or denatured alcohol, or distilled water it would go downhill, spraying with lacquer made it worse.

 

So just like the hole drilling, I’m handing the panels over to someone that does it for a living.  Back to going nuts….

 

What does any self respecting Head-Fi’r do during project downtime?

Why they hunt unicorns of course.

 

You become lunchmeat for voodoo component sellers.  Like 22 ga. solid core, soft annealed silver wire with slip on Teflon jackets.  (yes) Or Beeswax capacitors (yes), or silver oil Mundorf caps (no).  You purchase a 3rd set of XLR jacks because the first ones were the wrong gender and the 2nd set didn’t “look right”.  (yes) How about hand made. naked bulk metal, foil resistors? (yes)  You design a widget to accommodate very large capacitors anyway (yes).  There’s “maybe I should try some $600 higher rated 300B’s”(no)  Lastly, should I remove the tranny end caps and have them nickel-plated? (no)

 

This is the stuff that sends the project costs to the moon.  The worst part is I dismantled everything while waiting for these parts and now I start thinking “will it sound better?”  “Will it work at all?”  Out of my mind.

 

The best image I can post is the little bracket I made to hold the volume POT.  As you can see, I can’t line up 4 holes.  Can you imagine the results from me trying to drill 70 – 90?

 

Does anyone want 10 x 3M x 14mm brass standoffs?

 

 

 

 

 

post #165 of 631
Thread Starter 

Downtime is very detrimental to the leather.

I'm reviewing my components box(es) and I see the extra set of Neutrik male XLR jacks that will be collecting dust.  

 

 

 

Hmmmm.. I could use them as source jacks instead of the RCA's and buy a balanced Schiit Gungnir DAC. 

 

All the bronze is at the polishers and ......  he'll have it finished tomorrow afternoon!

Stopped IMS and had them shear a piece of perforated aluminum for the bottom grill.

 

The 22ga silver wire and other items from Handmade Electronics arrived.  Great outfit, great products.

Just waiting on the Texas Components resistors and I should be hearing music again.

 

Looked at the Bob Parker ESR meter for testing caps.  A simple kit $80

It's interesting that very few of these fancy cap makers publish ESR numbers.

 

 

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