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The Christiansen "DG" 300B Amplifier Build Thread - Page 9

post #121 of 631
Thread Starter 

The results from this mornings work are encouraging.

Luckily I found some rubber bits that made short order of de-burring the edges and polishing the holes.

 

The major and medium scratches have been removed by stepping through grit to 220.  I'm off to pick up some 400, 600, 800, then steel wool.

It tarnishes almost immediately if you touch it.  The streaks are from wiping with acetone.

 

 

post #122 of 631

Have you considered machine turning as a finish?  That can look pretty spiffy if done right:

post #123 of 631
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nelamvr6 View Post

Have you considered machine turning as a finish?  That can look pretty spiffy if done right:

I love it on custom cars..I was going for earthy.

post #124 of 631
Thread Starter 

Is this the point where I start hitting it with a hammer ?

 

 

post #125 of 631

Looks lovely!

post #126 of 631
Thread Starter 

I'm pleased.

180 / 220 / 400 / 600 / 1500 / Tripoli / Wenol.

All in the direction of the grain.

 

With each step I'm think'n  That looks pretty good, should I stop and call it the brushed look?  Next grit, same thing.  Well I should polish it.....

post #127 of 631
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by holland View Post

 

That's good.  Chemical treatment is best, IMO, as well.

 

Personally, I like a contrast.  Some sort of antique bronze against clear unstained highly figured maple looks good to me, with the orange glow of tubes.  I'm not sure about an oxidized look.  It might work, but I think the wood would need to look "old" as well to really pull that off.  Another option is to use cocobolo and then highly polish the bronze.  When it tarnishes, I think it would be a nice look.

Holland....

 

I just googled "cocobolo"

 

Cocobolo is one Bad Azz wood.   Woa.

The red is exquisite.  Seriously amazing grain.

 

Contacting the cabinet maker.

post #128 of 631

Truly amazing work and very inspirational as well. Thank you for all of your time, patience and effort in documenting it all and sharing the journey.

 

Subscribed. :)

post #129 of 631
Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post

Holland....

 

I just googled "cocobolo"

 

Cocobolo is one Bad Azz wood.   Woa.

The red is exquisite.  Seriously amazing grain.

 

Contacting the cabinet maker.


Why not walnut? Or even better than cocobolo (Imo), Bloodwood.

post #130 of 631

Hi Sceleratus,

 

You have my vote for bocote.  It is an amazing wood.  Unbelievable how it keeps a sharp edge. Used it on my M3 build and I am very happy with it. (see http://www.head-fi.org/t/85561/post-pics-of-your-builds/9135).  Sanded to 600 and finished with tung oil.  I am currently finishing up a EHHA with the same wood and a similar design.

 

Also, based on your build, I ordered the boards for one of these amps though mine will be used to power some small speakers in a smallish room. Plan on this to be a secondary build while I finish up an Aikido pre amp and a AMB B24.  Though I did order parts for the power supply board.

 

Keep the pictures and posts coming,

Jim

post #131 of 631
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LordShad0w View Post

Truly amazing work and very inspirational as well. Thank you for all of your time, patience and effort in documenting it all and sharing the journey.

 

Subscribed. :)

 

Thanks    smile.gif  That is very nice.

It really wasn't too much trouble.  I like photography and it forced me to take a lot of pictures.   I thought it would be cool to write an actual account of the build and not sugar coat anything.  The cost comes to mind.   I forgot to add the necessary tools.

Quote:
Originally Posted by customcoco View Post


Why not walnut? Or even better than cocobolo (Imo), Bloodwood.

@customcoco,

Walnut was the first choice for the corner pieces and is still the leader.  The cocobolo is a very sweet exotic, but I want the birdseye maple to be the understated centerpiece of the enclosure.  It has a subtle beauty that I love.

I'll look up bloodwood.  Many thanks for the suggestion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by muskyhuntr View Post

Hi Sceleratus,

 

You have my vote for bocote.  It is an amazing wood.  Unbelievable how it keeps a sharp edge. Used it on my M3 build and I am very happy with it. (see http://www.head-fi.org/t/85561/post-pics-of-your-builds/9135).  Sanded to 600 and finished with tung oil.  I am currently finishing up a EHHA with the same wood and a similar design.

 

Also, based on your build, I ordered the boards for one of these amps though mine will be used to power some small speakers in a smallish room. Plan on this to be a secondary build while I finish up an Aikido pre amp and a AMB B24.  Though I did order parts for the power supply board.

 

Keep the pictures and posts coming,

Jim

Musky !

I used to have a home in Manitowish Waters on Rest lake.  Went after those rascals in Boulder Junction.

A tung oil finish is where I am headed.  Your comment on holding an edge is important to this enclosure.  It seems inevitable that I round a corner during the sanding process.  I lack the patience necessary to take it slow.  This time I vow not to make that mistake. 

 

Tom will be very pleased that you ordered boards.  He sells them for the love of the DIY community.  He's not selling dozens of boards daily and he probably only pockets lunch money.  Heck, he includes the schematics for someone to put into Diptrace and make their own boards he nets zero by doing that.

 

EDIT:  I forgot to compliment you on you project.  It's beautiful and everything looks very tight. 


Edited by sceleratus - 6/27/13 at 9:04am
post #132 of 631
Thread Starter 

Here is a Dropbox link that has a lot of the files for the 300 build.

 

Components, board layouts, schematic with BOMs, pictures of boards and components, Adobe Illustrator files for cutting the top and rear panel, and component data sheets.

 

300B Build Files

post #133 of 631

Thanks for the files.  I started downloading Adobe Illustrator but it is going to take a while, I have a slow connection right now.

 

Looks like the panel size is 14x17.  I am thinking about using Front Panel Express or Protopanel.  Looks like they will do a 4mm thick black anodized Al plate for around $100.  And protopanel is running a sale, so they would be cheaper.  I used Protopanel for my DAC front panel, and it came out fine.

 

IMHO, use the wood type that you want to use.  There is a bunch of exotic hardwoods out there.  FYI Rockler carries some exoctic hardwoods, and there is probably somebody around you that carries some too. 

 

But you are the one that is going to be staring at this amp every day, so use the wood type that you like, and go for the look that works for you.

 

Randy

post #134 of 631
Thread Starter 

I exported the .ai files to auto cad .dxf and .dwg  I also saved it as a .pdf

 

The .pdf is handy because you can take it to FedEx Kinkos and print it out actual size for a few bucks.  The you can place the  boards and line it up.

There is also a .pdf of all the schematics on one page.  Have them print this 24" x 24",  it's much easier to read the schematic.

 

I really like to read the suggestions. You never know what is going to come up.  Cocobolo is a case in point.  I've done some woodworking in the past, as a result I've given Rockler more than a few bucks.  They are a great resource.

 

Aquatech said the 3mm holes for the standoffs were borderline what they could do.  I had to clean them with a round file, but they are perfect.

 

I had a great idea this morning for the front panel.  Continuing on the minimalistic theme, I am going to ditch the front wood on/off and put a heavy duty DPDT toggle in the back.

This makes the volume knob more of the focal point....I have, what I think, is a very cool idea for the volume knob.

 

I will post it after I draw it up.

 

Thanks to All.

post #135 of 631
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by randytsuch View Post

 

 

Looks like the panel size is 14x17. 

I forgot to answer this question.

 

The panel is 19" x 15.75"

In the drawing there is a "reference" rectangle drawn to show the transformer / component setback.  It's not part of the top panel fabrication. 

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