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Starving Student PCB's - Page 11

post #151 of 222
Thread Starter 

Now, I see you are building another kit not the SS

 

we can sort it via email

 

cheers

FRED

post #152 of 222
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred_fred2004 View Post
 

Now, I see you are building another kit not the SS

 

we can sort it via email

 

cheers

FRED

 

Yeah, sorry for making it unclear earlier; check out your email in a while, just took some pictures of what I did

post #153 of 222

Hi Fred, Boards arrived the other day, they look great,..thanks!!

Questions:

 

(some may seem simple, but just want to make sure)

 

1) On the transistors, the thinner area denoted by the dotted line is the heat sink side for orientation purposes?

 

2)The 3 terminal phone plug is the one connected to R16 and R17 which go to the vol pot? The input is connected to R12 and R6?

 

3) I plan on "Earth" grounding the metal case. (round pin on US AC outlet) If I do this, do the heat sink(s) need to be insulated from the metal enclosure? Also can I use one big Heat Sink or do they need to be separated. (If yes, answer to first Q of # 3 is yes.

 

4) The 2 pins that go to C6 and C3 are the 48V DC input?

 

5) If I do # 3 above, do I have to make sure I insulate the outer common grounds of the phone jack and the input. (Prob yes)

 

6) As long as the mounting threads of the Vol pot are insulated from all 6 pins on it (I think it will be) I will be ok using the threads to mount the Board, pot to the "Earth grounded enclosure

 

  Thanks again for all your help from all of us DIYers.

post #154 of 222
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Can Junkie View Post
 

Hi Fred, Boards arrived the other day, they look great,..thanks!!

Questions:

 

(some may seem simple, but just want to make sure)

 

1) On the transistors, the thinner area denoted by the dotted line is the heat sink side for orientation purposes?

Yes

 

2)The 3 terminal phone plug is the one connected to R16 and R17 which go to the vol pot? The input is connected to R12 and R6?

The input goes to R16 & R17

R12 & R6 are the output

 

3) I plan on "Earth" grounding the metal case. (round pin on US AC outlet) If I do this, do the heat sink(s) need to be insulated from the metal enclosure? Also can I use one big Heat Sink or do they need to be separated. (If yes, answer to first Q of # 3 is yes.

Easier to ground everything and insulate the IRF510's with mica

 

4) The 2 pins that go to C6 and C3 are the 48V DC input?

Yes

 

5) If I do # 3 above, do I have to make sure I insulate the outer common grounds of the phone jack and the input. (Prob yes)

If its all going to be at ground then no

 

6) As long as the mounting threads of the Vol pot are insulated from all 6 pins on it (I think it will be) I will be ok using the threads to mount the Board, pot to the "Earth grounded enclosure

Yes that works

 

  Thanks again for all your help from all of us DIYers.

cheers

FRED

post #155 of 222

Got my two boards today!  Thanks again!

post #156 of 222

Any reports from builders as to how this amp sounds?  I kind of need to know before I decide if I want to spend some extra cash on a Hammond enclosure or not. I am particularly interested as to if the amp does a good job of bringing out the highs and lows. I have found most non amped sources as well as HP's tend to fall off the further you get from the mids. I am building two units, one for my self and one for my sister, The last thing I want to do is put too much money into the units, only to find it just sounds a little louder with no significant improvement in the highs and lows.

Thanks,....Eric.

post #157 of 222

There are lots of opinions of this amp from the original thread found here:

http://www.head-fi.org/t/319231/millett-starving-student-hybrid-amp/6690

 

My 2 cents is that with the proper headphones and source (in my case a HD600's and a modi DAC from schiit audio), it sounds wonderful.

 

All in all it should cost you less than $100 to put an amp together if you do some shopping around (including the tubes).

 

Good luck with the builds!

 

--Dustin

post #158 of 222

I have posted a quick link for ordering from Mouser (one of my projects)....you will still need the tube sockets and tubes:

 

http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=def7402dc6

 

Hope this helps anyone that needs it...or the lazy.  :)

post #159 of 222
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the list

 

I'm one of the lazy ones :-)

post #160 of 222

Thanks Fred!

Just received my PCB...

Lovely board, amazing value & and super speedy delivery from the other side of the world!!

Now to start building :)

post #161 of 222

HI I would be interested in a couple of boards if you still have some available.

Thanks,

Antonio

post #162 of 222
Thread Starter 

no problems pm your email address

 

cheers

FRED

post #163 of 222
Quick newbie question - on Fred's board, where do I connect the LED's for the 2 tubes and the rled to go with it?
Thanks...
post #164 of 222
Thread Starter 

I just air wire an LED and series resistor from the main power after the switch and the ground

 

across C6 on my board is as good a place as any

 

cheers

FRED

post #165 of 222

Has anyone every completely got rid of the hum when you touch the volume POT?  It is so minor but annoys the hell out of me.  I have tried to ground it directly, but without any luck.

 

I was thinking of insulating the pot from the stainless volume knob...not sure if that will completely fix the problem, but worth a shot.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

--Dustin

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