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DIY Headphone Cable - Information Overload

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 

I'm overloaded with information here and could use a bit of guidance. I have a pair of Grado 225s, of course the wiring has gone bad they are about 8 years old.

Anyways, I have them apart and want to rebuild the headphone cable from scratch.


Here's what I think I understand:

I need a 1/4" TRS plug

Tip - Goes to right transducer hot

Ring - Goes to left transducer hot

Sleeve - Ground, can run one cable and split this to both transducer if cable is larger, or two cables. (going to run two)


I need cable sleeve, nylon multifilament seems to offer what I'm looking for. A good feel, flexible yet solid.

I'll need shrink wrap for the plug.


24-28 AWG cable should be good to use.


Here's where I have questions:

Braiding the cables, seems unnecessary if the cables I have are shielded. How can I tell if a cable is shielded before I buy it?

If I used this cable: http://www.amazon.com/NTE-Stranded-Hook-Up-Wire-Blue/dp/B003N39KRA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1367941208&sr=8-3&keywords=24+awg

Would I have to also braid it? Is it hard to braid the cables properly?


What size sleeve? I'm assuming 1/4" would be the best option but have seen 1/6" mentioned as well.


Is it worth the time and effort of installing 2 1/8" mono jacks into each headphone? Not sure how I would be able to mount it....


I'll continue browsing the wealth of information available in the meantime, and thanks in advance for any suggestions or input!

Edited by jivex5k - 5/7/13 at 8:54am
post #2 of 7

No idea on the first part, I just look at the plug and figure out a way to mark the wires to make sure they are going to the right side...


Paracord on ebay or amazon, 1/8" for the smaller part, 1/4" for the larger..imho 28awg is too small, I'd go with 24-26awg.


I used this for a detachable cable mod on my old ATH M50 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ML4A2Q/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00  the top screws off, you put the threaded part in the hole and screw the top back on that helps it to stay in place.  I also used a hot glue gun to help give it more structural support..you'll most likely have to cut a hole in your housing so the body will fit through the hole.  I used a dremel and was pretty careful..I'm sure there's a better way to do this, but it worked out fine for me.


I would braid the wire, a 4 wire braid isn't too bad, I usually use a round braid because I like the looks, but if you're going to sleeve it it won't really matter.  I just got done doing an 8 wire cable, and it was sort of a pain, but I know I can do it again next time. I've never seen that wire used before, I usually use Toxic Cables wire its my favorite, there are also DHC which makes a good occ wire if you care about that sort of thing.  Most people use Mogami microphone cable, or Canare starquad which I believe is 23awg, thicker if you want it..

Edited by KimChee - 5/7/13 at 12:33pm
post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 

Hmm, if I got a mogami mic cable I wouldn't need the techflex, just some heatshrink and connecters.

Well I would need some for the Y split actually...is there a benefit from buying a mogami cable instead of just 4 copper cables and wrapping it yourself? I mean, half of the mogami is gonna get unwrapped for the y split anyways, why not just go purely from scratch?


This cable seems perfect: http://www.wirecare.com/product.asp?pn=WC60123503

And I can get the techflex from the same store, run up to radio shack for some connecters.

Edited by jivex5k - 5/8/13 at 6:44am
post #4 of 7
Thread Starter 
post #5 of 7
Thread Starter 

Alright, after realizing how much those cables were gonna cost me....well I don't really care about cables being silver or contacts being gold....

Not at this short of length anyways...


I'm going with this cable: http://www.fullcompass.com/product/281238.html

This connector: http://www.fullcompass.com/product/232847.html

And techflex multifilament


Total cost: $31.46, not too shabby.

post #6 of 7

Another option is to go for cables form Navships on ebay he has good stuff. 

post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 
Yeah navships is just too expensive. It's a difference between 5 dollars for the cable or 25. I'd rather save 20 bucks cuz I know I won't be able to tell the difference.
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