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Schiit Bifrost Uber Analog Upgrade - Page 57

post #841 of 1133

Find the cap.  If the cap is tight, the problem is with your cable.  If the cap is loose, that's just the design of the port.  I checked my port just a minute ago, and it's fairly loose, but it snaps it.  The cable pulls out easily, but it requires a hand.  Gravity or wind won't know it out.

post #842 of 1133

THank you very much for your help and advice, I'll go do that now. I really appreciate your help! :beyersmile:

post #843 of 1133
Quote:
Originally Posted by sceleratus View Post
 

Probably common knowledge but I posted this as well.

 

 

To the non-USA folks with 230V power and a 115V Bifrost.

WARNING... DANGER...DANGER.

Consult with a knowledgeable person before reading further.

 

Whilst installing my Uber upgrade in my Bifrost, I looked at the transformer and PCB board and

noticed that the transformer is Dual Voltage. I went to the manufacturer's web site and confirmed

that the transformer model number in my Bifrost was dual voltage.  The AC receptacle is as well.

115VAC and 230VAC

 

It "APPEARS" to be a simple matter of removing 2 jumpers and installing a a single jumper to convert it to 230V.

This wire the primaries in Series rather than Parallel.

 

If this is interesting, I'd be happy to open up my Lyr and take a look.

If you were desperate enough to try this upgrade the fuse.

This is little confusing for me. I bought the 230V version directly from Schiit. I have been using it in a country that has 230V with no problems. Would this warning apply to me when I do the upgrade? Thanks.

post #844 of 1133
Quote:
Originally Posted by micho View Post
 

This is little confusing for me. I bought the 230V version directly from Schiit. I have been using it in a country that has 230V with no problems. Would this warning apply to me when I do the upgrade? Thanks.


This would be useful information if you wanted to convert a 230V Bifrost to a 115V. If you ordered yours for your region and that what you need it at, you dont need to worry about this.

post #845 of 1133
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben_r_ View Post
 


This would be useful information if you wanted to convert a 230V Bifrost to a 115V. If you ordered yours for your region and that what you need it at, you dont need to worry about this.

Ohh OK. When I see this post in the upgrade thread, I thought you need to do something extra before installing the card. Because I thought the card has nothing to do with whatever voltage version your Bifrost is and seeing this confused me. Thanks for the clarification.

post #846 of 1133
Quote:
Originally Posted by micho View Post
 

Ohh OK. When I see this post in the upgrade thread, I thought you need to do something extra before installing the card. Because I thought the card has nothing to do with whatever voltage version your Bifrost is and seeing this confused me. Thanks for the clarification.


Oh I see. No, Im sure the cards are all the same, even the transformer is from what that post said. Its just what part of the circuit board the AC voltage goes through that feeds the rest of the system and that what they are using those solder jumpers for mentioned in the post you referenced.

post #847 of 1133

I just want drop by and show some love to the Bifrost w/Uber upgrade. I didn't order the USB version but later upgraded and installed the USB2 board my self thanks to the helpful info from sceleratus. 

I dont detect any difference in sound quality between toslink and USB2 but the USB is more convenient for my setup. 

Thanks again Sceleratus, you saved me fifty bucks ! 

post #848 of 1133
Quote:
Originally Posted by hodgjy View Post
 

 

Did you go Uber? I love mine; it was an upgrade over my V-DAC II.


As someone else with a V-DAC and eyeing the Bifrost, I'd love to hear whether you found it to be a significant upgrade over your V-DAC. I'm looking for a clear step up rather than just a move to an equivalent DAC.

post #849 of 1133
Quote:
Originally Posted by vjack View Post
 


As someone else with a V-DAC and eyeing the Bifrost, I'd love to hear whether you found it to be a significant upgrade over your V-DAC. I'm looking for a clear step up rather than just a move to an equivalent DAC.

 

Differences between DACs are subtle.  So, changing DACs is only worthwhile if you can actually perceive the differences and can justify the expense.  The Uber has a more coherent soundstage, better bass control, and less grain in the treble.  Very subtle, but I can tell.

post #850 of 1133

Has anyone here compared the Uberfrost to the Emo Stealth DC-1?  I've been going back and forth on these two DAC's for a few months now but I haven't seen many comparisons.  I know the DC-1 has an integrated amp but I don't care about that.  Just curious if anyone has heard them both.  Thanks.

post #851 of 1133
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mingus Ah Um View Post
 

Has anyone here compared the Uberfrost to the Emo Stealth DC-1?  I've been going back and forth on these two DAC's for a few months now but I haven't seen many comparisons.  I know the DC-1 has an integrated amp but I don't care about that.  Just curious if anyone has heard them both.  Thanks.


I suggest you look down the topics a ways until you find the "Emotiva Stealth DC-1 DAC" thread and look at page 21, specifically posts 287 and 294. If that doesn't confuse you nothing will. One person says the DC-1 isn't nearly as good as the Bifrost and another says it is the equal of the Gungnir, so like most things, the impressions of various dacs is so subjective as to be almost useless. I have almost given up trying to use reviews to pick a dac. I think you pick 3 or 4 you think you might like, blindfold yourself and throw a dart. I am leaning towards the DC_1 not because I think it will sound better than a Bifrost, because I don't think it will, but because of all the other features it has that the Bifrost doesn't, like balanced outputs as one example. I read a comparison review a few weeks ago where they did a double blind test using 4 dacs, from a Modi all the way up to like a $4000 dac. No one could consistently identify the dacs when they were operating within their design specs. One guy did a pretty good job telling the cheapest from the most expensive but even he couldn't tell a $1000 dac from a $4000 dac. Just take your best shot and don't look back.


Edited by HPiper - 3/28/14 at 7:51pm
post #852 of 1133

I just got mine in the mail. Everything looks good but they didn't sent me the right power cable nor a usb cable.

post #853 of 1133
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dawls View Post
 

I just got mine in the mail. Everything looks good but they didn't sent me the right power cable nor a usb cable.

Sorry about the power cable.  But, they don't give you a USB cable.  You can buy one from them, though.  Did you order one?

post #854 of 1133
Quote:
Originally Posted by hodgjy View Post
 

Sorry about the power cable.  But, they don't give you a USB cable.  You can buy one from them, though.  Did you order one?

No I didn't buy a USB, is there a special type of cable that I have to buy or can I use any USB2.0 cable?

post #855 of 1133
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dawls View Post
 

No I didn't buy a USB, is there a special type of cable that I have to buy or can I use any USB2.0 cable?


Nope, any standard device USB cable will work.

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